Overview
On the long rocky ridge between the Damma and the Tiefenbach gletscher, there is a very popular summit (not easy and never to be undestimated) that can amuse climbers looking for rock routes in high mountain environment : Gletschhorn.
On its east side many summits with very difficult routes : Graue Wand, Winterstock, Lochberg ....
Getting ThereIf you come from Luzern (or Zurich) you must reach Göschenen (near the northern exit-entrance of Gotthard tunnel), follow the Gotthard road till Andermatt and then take the road to Furkapass to get Tiefenbach.
If you come from Milano, through S.Gotthard tunnel to Göschenen of along the Gotthard pass road till Andermatt and then take the road to Furkapass to get Tiefenbach.
If you come from Brig, along the Rhone valley to Gletsch and, after the Furkapass go down till Tiefenbach.
From Tiefenbach in less than an hour to Albert Heim hut (2541 m - 100 beds - tel 4467745 - open in summer and spring weekends) starting point for this (these) summit.
Routes overviewTwo classic and frequented routes on this summit, both require good conditions and fine weather to be amusing and relaxing :
South ridge - 250 m (starting point is the saddle to the north of the first big tower) - AD (one pass IV) - fine and amusing on wonderful rock - can be considered as the normal route and sometimes (I heard) is very crowded.
South-East ridge - 400 m - longer and more binding - D inf - wonderful rock - useful when S ridge is too crowded.
coming down along the south west slope, easy in the higher part, in the lower part require attention (keep the line eastward) and 1 rappel to get the snow-field - ice-axe can be useful.
When To Climbjuly to september
Red Tapeno problems
Miscellaneous Infophotos needed !! :))
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