Unlike the jagged peaks that rise in the central portion of the Takhte Soleyman Massif, the northern peaks of the massif are gentle and easy to climb. The transition from jagged to gentle happens abruptly near the summit of North Siah Gook Peak where a serrated knife edge begins below the summit and heads south to reach a giant rocky block that is known as South Siah Gook Peak. A series of crags that have been aptly named �Dandane Ejhdeha� (Dragon�s Teeth) continue south to merge into the northern slopes of the 4659 m (15285 ft) Takhte Soleyman Peak.

In contrast, the northern slopes of North Siah Gook Peak form a small plateau with an average elevation of about 4350 m (14275 ft). This plateau is gently sloped and drains to the north. The summit of North Siah Gook Peak is the highest and southern-most point on the plateau and the 4426 m (14521 ft) Rostam Nisht Peak forms its northwestern boundary. The grayish rock that covers the sterile surface of the plateau creates a strange landscape that is somewhat reminiscent of the surface of the moon!

The eastern slopes of North Siah Gook Peak drop to the bottom of the valley that houses the tail end of the Alam Chal Glacier just above the Sar Chal Shelter (3750 m, 12300 ft). This shelter is often used as an overnight sleeping spot by those who go to climb the highest peak of the massif, the 4850 m (15912 ft) Alam Kooh Peak. The eastern slopes and the northern plateau can provide easy access to the summit of North Siah Gook Peak. The starting point is the village of Roodbarak (elevation 1400 m, 4700 ft) to the northeast. If you drive the dirt road from Roodbarak to the Vandar Bon Village (2300 m, 7500 ft), you might be able to reach the top of North Siah Gook Peak and make it back to Vandar Bon in a single day. This does, however, require a 2150 m (7000 ft) elevation gain.

From the summit of North Siah Gook Peak you can look south to see a seemingly endless array of jagged peaks which culminate in the �grand daddy of them all� Alam Kooh and its magnificent wall. To the north, the gentler peaks of the massif will be in good view.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
The Iran Kuhro schematic map (see below), as well as other sources, have provided an approximate elevation of 4500 m for South Siah Gook Peak. The 1:50 000 map, which is the most accurate topographical map of the area, does not give the names of these peaks but it clearly shows that Peak 4446 m (North Siah Gook) is the highest peak in that area. Where South Siah Gook is located, the contour lines show an altitude of 4400-4420 m. After reviewing my pictures, I have come to believe that North Siah Gook Peak is probably higher than South Siah Gook Peak. Any information that might clarify this ambiguity is most welcomed.

On the day that I climbed this mountain, I was assuming that South Siah Gook was higher than North Siah Gook. For that reason, I mistook the top of a rounded Knob that sits to the north of North Siah Gook for the summit of North Siah Gook. My summit pictures were taken from the top of this knob.

Getting There

See Map.

From downtown Tehran drive 40 km west to the town of Karaj and take the Karaj-Chalus Road north (This road crosses the Alborz Mountains taking you through the Kandovan Tunnel to the Caspian Coast). 30 km south of Chalus, you will reach the town of Marzan Abad. Turn left and follow a side road into the Sardab Rood River drainage and to the town of Roodbarak. Distance from Tehran to Roodbarak is roughly 200 km (125 miles)

Red Tape

I am not aware of any permit or fee requirement. Hunting will require a license.

When To Climb

June to October is the ideal season. Climbing in winter will obviously be much harder due to extreme cold and heavy snow cover.

Camping

Accommodations are available at the Iran Mountaineering Federation Hotel in Roodbarak (call Mountaineering Federation at 98 21 8839928) or camp anywhere.

Mountain Conditions

In summer, the weather is generally clear. Unexpected thunderstorms do occur frequently. Precipitation at higher elevations will almost always be in the form of snow/hail

Miscellaneous Info

TOURS/GUIDES:
If you are not familiar with these mountains, you will greatly benefit from the presence of a guide. I worked with Araz Adventure Tours and was very satisfied with their services. They were flexible, courteous and knowledgeable and were able to custom design an 8 day trekking tour allowing me to climb the lesser known peaks of the area. My guide: Mr. Rasool Naghavi was a kind man who was a native of Roodbarak and knew the mountains like the back of his hand. Having climbed Everest and several other Himalayan giants made him, in my opinion, one of the most qualified guides for these mountains.

MAPS:
1) The most accurate topographical maps of the area are those with a scale of 1:50 000 (contour lines of 20 m) provided by the Iranian Armed Forces. You will need sheet #6162 I "Shahrestanak" for Alam Kooh and North Siah Gook(To fully cover the entire Takhte Soleyman Massif, you will also need sheet #6262 IV "Rudbarak"). These maps are available in Tehran at the Geographical Office of the Armed Forces on Moalem St. (98 21 8408088) for the equivalent of $3 per sheet (in 2004). Outside of Iran, the same maps can be purchased at www.cartographic.com for the exorbitant price of $150 per sheet (in 2003). These maps are in Farsi. While they give the exact elevation of most of the peaks, they do not give the names of the individual peaks.

2) Soviet Military Maps sheet # J-39-126-G available at www.omnimap.com. I do not recommend this map. It seems as if the creators of this map lacked detailed info and eliminated many of the lower peaks.

3) Different schematic maps available in Iran. My favorite is the "Guide Map of Takht-e-Soleiman & Alam Kuh Region" by Iran Kuhro Co. available at Varzesh Kooh store, Ferdowsi Sq., Tehran (98 21 8826642).

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