Skuta

Mountain/Rock

Skuta

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed, Scrambling, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 8307 ft / 2532 m

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Sep 15, 2004 / Sep 22, 2007

Object ID: 153086

Hits: 5336

Page Score: 89.14% - 15 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Geographical structure: Eastern Alps > Kamnik Alps group > Central group of Kamnik Alps.

Skuta is the third highest mountain in Kamnik Alps and it has the second biggest glacier in Slovenia ( we have only two glaciers). Skuta means in English curd. In nearness of Skuta is a peak called Struca, 2457m which means loaf.

Skuta leads in the middle of Kamnik Alps and from the south it is on the gable end of Kamniska Bistrica valley. From the north is approachable from Jezersko pass (more to the west) or from Logarska dolina (more to the east). Skuta is in nearness of the frontier with Austria.

Skuta has a lot of mounteneering possibilities. From the easiest route to the hard climbing routes and alpinistic skiing descendes. It is harder approachable of Grintovec (the highest mountain in Kamnik Alps) but easier of Kocna. Skuta is very popular mountain and has a lot of climbers. It is very slender mountain and we can compare it with Ojstrica.

Skuta has a lot of walls. The north, south east faces are all hard and have a lot of varities for climbing. The south face has the nicest rock and it is the most popular.

Getting There

For a better overview see check the page of Kamnik Alps GROUP.

Skuta is easily accesible from the main road Ljubljana - Kranj - Jezersko (Austrian border). From Austria, Jezersko resort is accessibe over Jezersko sedlo / Seeberg Sattle. From this road you can choose the south-west approach or from (Jezersko resort) the northern one.

For the southern-eastern approach you must choose Kamniska Bistrica valley, which is accessible by personal car from Kamnik.

For the approach from north-east side you must come to Logarska dolina.

Routes Overview

Marked and secured routes:

Skuta has a lot of approachs from a lot of sides. The most popular is south ascent from hut Cojzova koca na Kokrskem sedlu (pass). Then you can come to the to the summit from north side, east side, west side.

From Cojzova koca na Kokrskem sedlu (SW approach) (on the map route number 1)

From Jezersko over the Ceska koca (hut) (NW approach) (on the map route number 2)

Through the Turski zleb and then over the east face (N approach) (on the map route number 3)

Over the Gamsov skret and then over the east face (S approach) (on the map route number 4)

Over the small valley Zmavcarji (S approach) (on the map route number 5)

Climbing routes:

Skuta is very popular for climbers. Its south face has some very beautiful routes.

Greben Rinka-Skuta (E ridge from Rinke), First ascent Thomas Arbeiter, Karl Greenitz and Richard Weizenb�ck, UIAA IV/II-III, 2-3 hours.

Juzni raz (South crest), First ascent Vinko Modec and Boris Rezek, UIAA IV/III, 350m, 3 hours.

Zajeda Skute, First ascent Vinko Modec and Boris Rezek, UIAA V/IV, 350m, 4 hours, south face.

Delavska smer, UIAA IV+/III, 130m, 2 hours, south face.

Some climbing routes in north face will be added soon!

Red Tape

No limitations. But take care of nature.

When To Climb

The best time for Summer ascent is from June to October. In this region the most stable weather is from August to October.

Skuta can be climbed also in Winter but this ascent is for good climbers.

Camping and huts

In valleys there are many tourist resorts.

You can find a lot of places for camping in valleys.

In nearness of Skuta are huts and bivouacs Dom v Kamniski Bistrici(hut), Cojzova koca (hut), Ceska koca na Spodnjih Ravneh(hut), Kranjska koca na Ledinah(hut), Frischaufov dom na Okreslju(hut), Bivouac below Grintovec and Bivouac below Skuta on Mali podi.

Some information about huts:

Dom v Kamniski Bistrici, 601m : The hut leads in nearness of Kamniska Bistrica spring. It is supplied by PD Ljubljana-Matica. It is open all year. There is always a lot of people because is very popular point. In the hut is 33 beds for sleeping.
Phone: 003861 832 55 44

Cojzova koca na Kokrskem sedlu, 1793m : The hut is supplied by PD Kamnik. It leads above Kalski Greben, Grintovec and Kocna on the pass called Kokrsko sedlo. It has 145 beds for sleeping and winter room with 12 beds. It is open from June to October.
Phone: 0038650 635 549

Frischaufov dom na Okreslju, 1396m. The hut leads in glacier`s basin below north face of Rinke and Turska Gora. It has 78 beds and it is opened from May to the end of September.
Phone: 0038638389070

Ceska koca na Spodnjih Ravneh, 1542m. The hut is very old and it has original structure from year 1900. It has 70 beds and it is opened from June to the end of September.
The owners of the hut are popular family Karnicar which are famous of Davo Karnicar which has made first skiing descend from Everest!
Phone: 0038641615624

Bivouac below Skuta on Mali podi, 2070m. It leads on south brink of plateau Mali Podi. We look it when we come over unmarked route over Zmavcarje. It has 10 beds, blankets, bench and table.

Bivouac below Grintovec, 2102m. It leads on Veliki Podi. It is not very big and is for temporary refuge from for example bad weather. It has only 4 beds. Approachable from Cojzova koca na Kokrskem sedlu(pass).

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