Grosse Kinigat (2689m) is the highest summit of a trinity of peaks in the Carnic Alps Main Ridge. Together with its namesake Kleine Kinigat (2671m) and Königswand (2686m) it is the westernmost of the Dolomite-like limestone cliffs of the ridge. In Italian Literature both Königswand and Grosse Kinigat are treated as one mountain, Monte Cavallino, due to their closeness.

From a climbing point of view Grosse Kinigat as well as Königswand are arguably the most important mountains of the Carnic Alps Main Ridge. Some 20 routes run along their walls, many of them in very good conditions. To the north of the mountain there is another limestone cliff, Liköflwand, which also is a good climbing spot with lots of short (150 - 200m) routes. To the south of the group there is the beautiful Königswandtürml, a tower which could hold its own against any of the towers of the Dolomites.

You might have read this before but the main ridge was the frontline during the First World War. Here between the two Kinigats Austrian troops at their positions in the saddle called "Sandiger Boden". Like elsewhere in the Carnic Alps the supply trails have been turned into hiking trails and in the case of Grosse Kinigat two ferrate have been created which reach the top. The eastern one is short but very slippery even in dry conditions. The limestone has been polished to resemble something like marble and on a wet day it must be very difficult to keep your balance. The western ferrata climbs the west face from Sandiger Boden. Due to fixed cables it is rather easy to climb but take care of the scree! The trail is very steep and you won't be able to keep pebbles from falling. I almost got rid of my girlfriend by breaking a stone lose.

In comparison to neighbouring Kleine Kinigat this summit is quite popular. You won't find the usual tourons up at the top - the ferrate will take care of those. Still everybody with a little climbing experience will go for the summit, if only to enjoy the views. These are magnificent, especially the western one were you can see the long line of the Sexten Dolomites east faces. And the close-up views of Kleine Kinigat and Königswand are breathtaking as well.

Climbing Grosse Kinigat

As I have done elsewhere I will only include the abstracts of the climbs here. Complete descriptions can be found in the German Alpine Club Guidebook (German): P.Holl: Karnischer Hauptkamm, Rother Verlag, ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4.

South Flank Ferrata
Rated: I
see corresponding route
Southern Chimney
Rated: IV-
Length: 90m
West Flank War Trail
Rated: I (war trail turned ferrata)
see corresponding route
North Ridge
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1925 (Rudovsky, Hitzker, Valentin)
Length: 500m
North-East Face, “Plattenweg”
Rated: V+, A1
First Climbed: 1980 (Sint, Sint)
Length: 500m
North-East Face, “Silberplatte”
Rated: VI-, A0
First Climbed: 1986 (Sint, Meysel)
Length: 500m
North-East Face, “Supersilberplatte”
Rated: VI+
First Climbed: 1986 (Sint, Strasser, Goller)
Length: 500m
North-East Face, “Weg durch die Höhle”
Rated: III
First Climbed: 1981 (Goller, Goller, Goller)
Length: 400m
North-East Face Chimney
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1982 (Goller, Goller)
Length: 150m
North-East Face
Rated: III
First Climbed: 1918 by Austrian Soldiers
Length: 400m

Climbing Königswand

Königswand is a rock which almost reaches the same height as Grosse Kinigat. It is located to its east and separated by a small saddle. The most common ascent route leads across this saddle from Grosse Kinigat.

East Ridge Southern Flank and Upper East Ridge
Rated: III (VERY LOOSE)
First Climbed: 1898 (Victorin, Tassenbacher)
Length: 200m
Complete East Ridge
Rated: II
Length: 250m
Ridge Traverse from Grosse Kinigat
Rated: II
First Climbed: 1898 (Victorin, Tassenbacher)
Length of the ridge: 200m
Königswandscharte from the south
Rated: I
Königswandscharte, North-Eastern Gully
Rated: III
Length: 400m
North-East Face, Rudovskyweg
Rated: III
First climbed during WW I
Length: 300m
North-East Face, direct entry
Rated: III
Length: 120m
North-East Face, direct exit
Rated: IV-
First climbed: 1985 (Strasser, Goller, Sommer)
Length: 150m
North-East Face Diagonal
Rated: III
First climbed: 1985 (Goller, Goller, Sommer)
Length: 250m
North-East Face, “Ausflug im Nebel”
Rated: III
First climbed: 1986 (Strasser, Goller, Sommer)
Length: 150m
North-East Face, Right Route
Rated: IV
First climbed: 1985 (Strasser, Goller, Sommer)
Length: 300m
North-East Face, “Teufelsrinne”
Rated: V-, A0
First climbed: 1975 (Goller, Goller, Sommer)
Length: 150m
South Face
Rated: III
First climbed: 1954 (Wiegele, Zojer)
Length: 150m
South Face, “Neuer Weg”
Rated: III
First climbed: 1977 (Tabernig, Thurner)
Length: 150m

Climbing Königswandtürml

Königswandtürml is a tower, which is located to the south of the Königswand – Grosse Kinigat Group, roughly in between the two summits. There are a few beautiful classical routes:

Northern Flank (from the ridge towards Königswand)
Rated: II
First climbed: 1964 (Zojer, Wiegele)
Length: 50m
North Spur and North Face
Rated: III
First climbed: 1965 (Zojer, Wiegele)
Length: 100m
East Face
Rated: IV-
First climbed: 1974 (Sepperer, Unterluggauer, Wiegele)
Length: 100m

Summit Views

Though Grosse Kinigat is known best for its climbing routes it certainly also is a perfect lookout peak, From the Sexten Dolomites across the Hohe Tauern Range towards the Lienz Dolomites every summit can be seen without an obstacle in between.

Getting There

Interactive map of the western part of the Carnic Alps Main Ridge. The numbers refer to the respective subgroups as given on the Carnic Alps Main Ridge (West) Page. Click on them to go to the subgroup description. Grosse Kinigat is located to the west of subgroup 2.

The best starting point for an ascent of Grosse Kinigat is the village of Kartitsch in the Tyrol Gailtal Valley. The village is located on B111 the main road running through the Tyrol Gailtal and Lesachtal Valleys. The trailhead (there are two ascent routes starting from the same trailhead) is located a little southwest of the village near the sports field. Kartitsch can be reached as follows:

From the West (Brenner Motorway A22)
Leave the Brenner Motorway near Brixen / Bressanone and follow SS49 to the east through Pustertal / Val Pusteria. To the east of Innichen / San Candido you cross the Austrian-Italian border and follow the road (now B100) to Tassenbach. Turn right (south-east) here onto B111, which you follow in direction Kartitsch. In Kartitsch at the grocery store turn right into the village and follow the signs to the sports field.

From the North
There are two possible roads:

From Kitzbühel over B108 through the Felbertauern Tunnel to Lienz, then southwest to Tassenbach (B100), where you turn on to B111 east into the Tyrol Gailtal.
From Salzburg along motorway A10 to Spittal. Turn west on B100 to Oberdrauburg, there south to Kötschach-Mauthen were you turn east on B111. You need to go through the whole Lesachtal Valley to reach Kartitsch.

From the South (Udine)
Take Motorway A23 to the exit Camia Tolmezzo. Follow SS52 north to Tolmezzo where you turn onto SS52 bis. This leads to Plöckenpass, where it crosses the Austrian-Italian border. In Austria the road turns into B100 and at Kötschach-Mauthen you have to turn east on B111 into Lesachtal Valley. Again, go on through the whole valley to Kartitsch.

Red Tape

There is no Red Tape here. However, the mountain is located on the border between Austria and Italy so have your ID ready and don't try to camp out. Go to Filmoor Stanschützenhütte or Obstanser Seehütte for overnight accommodation. The proprietors will surely turn a blind eye on your camping outside..

When To Climb

The hiking and climbing season is June through September. On the web I have seen pictures of a ski tour ascent in winter though I wonder how they might have done it.

Accommodation

As said above camping on the border is discouraged. Stay at the refuges (see here) or at one of the little campgrounds in Lesachtal Valley. The latter are mostly associated with an inn or hotel. If you are looking for hotel rooms or apartments follow one of the links below

Weather Conditions

In general the weather in south-eastern Austria is much better than in the northern and western parts of the country. Still, the Carnic Alps Main ridge is a weather divide in northern or southern wind conditions so it pays to keep informed. Look at one of the links below or (even better) call the proprietors of the huts. You'll find all phone numbers on the Carnic Alps Main Page.

Tyrol weather
South Tyrol weather (for the English text you have to scroll down the right frame)

Maps 'n' Books

Maps
I have been using maps by Kompass Verlag, which are very good for the hiking trails though they don't show ALL the relevant summits of the area.

Lienzer Dolomiten / Lesachtal
1:50000
Kompass Map WK47
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-85491-053-3
Tabacco Map 10: Sesto
1:25000

As for books please look at the appropriate section of the Carnic Alps page.

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