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| Pik Nansen   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Inylchek Tau/Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan, Asia Lat/Lon: 42.15000°N / 79.60000°E Activities: Mountaineering Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Elevation: 18690 ft / 5697 m | Page By: cjaniesch Created/Edited: Apr 19, 2005 / Sep 18, 2007 Object ID: 153957 Hits: 4605 Loading... Page Score: 90.61% - 39 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewPik Nansen is a strikingly beautiful ice- pyramid, after Shokalskovo (5722 meters) the second highest peak in the Inylchek Tau.
This range frames the southern side of the Inylchek Valley below giant Inylchek Glacier and links up at its southeastern end with the Kokshal Tau, the highest range of the Tian Shan culminating in Pik Pobedy (7439 meters).
Nansenas excessively steep north face, armed with hugh seracs, drops down for nearly 2800 meters to the Inylchek Valley and is an amazing spectacle when viewed from the slopes of the far side.
The fact that it does not exeed the magic line of 6000 meters and the obvious difficulties of a potential climb combine to make Khan Tengri, Pik Pobedy and other 6000 meter+ peaks a bigger attraction for high altitude mountaineers and consequently Pik Nansen has only witnessed two ascents.
The peak was first climbed in September 1937 by a team of the Latavet Tian Shan Expedition (members: Cherepov, Belogasov, Popov and Racek) by way of the west ridge. From the top the climbers saw for the first time the peak that in 1943 was identified as Pik Pobedy. Thanks to spellbinder for digging up this information from I.A.Cherepov´s "Wyprawy w Tien-Szan [Expeditions to the Tian-Shan]" published in 1956.
In July 1991 a team from the Alpine Club of Saxony tried their luck on the south ridge, but had to abandon the climb at 4900 meters due to sustained difficulties and objective danger. This was probably the first non Soviet attempt since the Central Tian Shan had been off limits to foreigner until 1990.
The second ascent was eventually accomplished in the winter 2001 by a Norwegian team led by Haakon Staver. From a base in the Inylchek Valley they climed Nansena via the east ridge, placing two camps on the mountain. 60°-90° ice slopes and badly crevassed seracs had to be overcome, before the very exposed summit ridge could be gained.
As my knowledge about attempts on other routes (the south side seems to be pretty much elusive) and the first ascent itself are non- existant I would strongly encourage anyone to make contributions and / or post photos!Getting TherePik Nansen is located in the Inylchek Valley near the snout of the Inylchek Glacier. The standart way of reaching the base of the mountain is walking from the mining town of Inylchek which is reached by SUV or lorry from the provincial capital of Karakol in 3 to 4 hours. This 40 kilometers trek takes about two days on mostly good paths along the true left bank of the Inylchek River. On route you are passing the military camp of Maida Adyr where your permits will be checked. If water levels of the river are low it is however possible to reach the base of Pik Nansen with an Unimog which might be hired in Karakol.
Another more attractive alternative to reach Pik Nansen is by way of the Sary Jaz Valley and Tiuz Pass (4005 meters) which leads over the heavily glaciated Sary Jaz Range into the Inylchek Valley at a point about level with the base of Pik Nansen. This trek will take about three days.
The Sary Jaz Range borders the Inylchek valley and the North Inylchek glacier and links up with the famous Mramornaya Stiena (The Marble Wall) at this glaciers head. Its average elevation lying between 4200 and 5000 meters, the highest peak being Pik Siemienova (5816m).
Hire a jeep in Karakol (will cost about 50$) that will bring you by way of scenic Chonashu Pass (3822 meters) to the military camp of Echkilitash in the Sary Jaz Valley. Here your Propusk will be checked.
At the site of the military camp a bridge crosses the Sary Jaz and walking along a faint path you enter the Tiuz Valley. Continue walking along the true right bank of the river until its course swings to the north about 6 hours from Echkilitash. Here are good places to camp and water is available (the water from the Tiuz itself is undrinkable due to glacial silt).
Continue following the Tiuz until it swings again to the east and cross the river (do this in the morning as it gets quite difficult to ford later in the day).
Enter a subsidary valley that comes in from the north and start ascending on traces of a path. After two or three hours from the Tiuz River Tiuz Pass comes into view. The pass is glaciated on its north side but by ascending along the margin of the little glacier it is reasonable safe to cross without roping up. The pass has a Russian rating of 1B (“might require some scrambling or use of ice axe and crampons”). Crampons are not needed but an ice axe could be of assistance.
The top of the pass is reached after about five hours from the Tiuz River and boasts a wonderful view of the ranges of the Central Tian Shan and Pik Nansen. The descent towards the Inylchek Valley is steep, first on scree then on grass without a specific track to follow and it takes about three hours to reach the floor of the valley.
From here start towards the terminal moraine of the Inylchek Glacier and cross the glacier which is about two kilometers wide until you find yourself directly under the north face of Pik Nansen
People wishing do to a longer trek might start at the mining village of Djergalan in the foothills of the Terksey Ala Tau. This range might be crossed by way of Echkilitash Pass which then leads down to the Sary Jaz Valley in about 4 days. Anyone who wants to know more should feel free to contact me for details.Red TapeAnyone who wants to visit the Central Tian Shan requiers a Propusk (this Russian term translates to Military Border Permit). The Propusk is available through Khirgiz travel agencies and will cost about 30 Euros.
If there is a need for a climbing permit for Pik Nansen I don´t know. If so peak fees for Kyrgyzstan tend to be very reasonable.
When To ClimbJuly and August are clearly the best month for the Central Tian Shan. Days are generally warm but showers and/or thunderstorms are a frequent occurence towards afternoon. Snow and sleet are possible any time though, as is sharp frost in clear nights.
However, the Norwegian ascent on Pik Nansen shows, that a determined party might climb there any time of the year but winters are really severe.
Mountain ConditionsAs the area is very remote, up to date information is hard to come by. However, there is a weather station in the Tian Shan, that is actually connected to the international weather forecast system, but it is of minimal value to any mountaineering venture.
A word of warning: Every year around the first days of August Merzbacher Lake, a cyclical lake on the North Inylchek Glacier burst through its ice-dam. This causes a flash flood in the Inylchek Valley and the Inylchek River becomes completely uncrossable. If you happen to be on the true left bank of the river the only way out of the Inylchek Valley is by way of Tiuz Pass. Plan your trip accordingly and bring spare supplies just in case.CampingCamping is allowed and necessary anywhere as long as you are carrying a valid Propusk. Facilities of any sort, apart from the big camps up on Inylchek Glacier, are scarce or non- existant.
The two military camps of Maida Adyr (Inylchek Valley) and Echkilitash (Sary Jaz Valley) are generally unhelpful and officials might be corrupt (I have at least experienced one case).
In the Inylchek Valley live two families, one Russian and one Khirgiz. They do not rent rooms but might be of assistance in a case of emergency.
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