OverviewUshba - the most beautiful and difficult mountain of Caucasus, the Queen, which is proudly reigning above of all the Main Caucasian Mountain Range. More than the one hundred years history of ascensions of this mountain has retained many heroic and dramatic episodes. All the annals of Russian and world sportive mountain climbing is deeply connected with this strange name - Ushba, the name, which even local people - Swanetians, who live at the foot of it, can not explain clearly... One version of translation of this name from Svanetian languige is "The road to nowhere", the other is "THe place of the witches' sabbath"
Ascension of Ushba is difficult both technically and psychologically, the mountain gets on the climber, tries to break him, to force him to give up before the Summit. It is impossible to tell, what the climber feels standing on top, among curling clouds there, where two worlds are merging the reality and the eternity.. Only one thing I can tell you - all my climbs of Ushba are the brightest moments of my life. Without this Mountain for me it wouldn't be fairy to repeat the words of my favorite writer: «Well, the world is wonderful and surprising, there is something more in it than commerce, much more… »
The easiest route is Normal to the North Summit from Russia - AD+
SP member PeterN writes: The Georgian translation for Ushba is something like "terrible mountain" I think.
(ush = terrible, ba = mountain).
ALEXCLIMB: There are many variants of the translation of the name Ushba from Svanetian language. I spoke about that with Svans and found interesting thing - "ba" really means mountain, it is clear becouse many mountain names have this ending there, but about Ush there is no certainty. In Georgian language which is similar but different from Svanetian there is no such word. And Svanetians try to explain its meaning by the meaning of consonant words. So it is difficult to find the exact etymology of the name Ushba
Climbing historyNorth Summit of Ushba (4690 m) has been climbed first time in 1888 by John Garford Cokklin and mountain guide Ulrich Almer.
South Summit (4710 m) has been climbed 15 ears later - in 1903 by the joined team of German, Swiss and Austriamn climbers under command of B. Rickmer-Rickmers.
Getting ThereThere are two basic ways to get there - the first and most popular is from Russia (although it is illegal - you have to cross the Russian-Georgian border), and the other way is from Georgia. The last way is more dangerous and complicated because the South side of Cacasus (Georgian) is far more wild and unpredictable than the North, Russian side.
From Mineralnye Vody (Russia) take a taxi to Adyl-Su valley (approx. 200 km). Some camping and hotels are located in the valley from cheap to quite expensive, camping in any other place is free, but you should keep your eye on your things all the time. The trek begins in the alpine camp Shkhelda. You can get all necessary information on the nearby rescue station.
From Tbilisi (Georgia) by car 600 km to Mestia by a bad road. 8-10 hours. Then on the next day drive to Maseri village (15 km). Then by trek 8-10 hours to the Gul bivouac from which begin the routes of the South side of Ushba. This variant is possible only in collaboration with Georgians. The area is dangerous for foreigners
Information about climbing Ushba and other mountains in that region is available on the ALEXCLIMB web-page. Also there you can hire a guide and find partners for climbing.
Red TapeNormally, if you go from Russia you need only a permission to enter the border zone. You can get it in Naltchik in borderguards office. But don't say you are going to climb Ushba! Say some other mountain like Shkhelda or peak Kavkaz.
National park fee can be asked from you in the Adyl-Su valley. It is local kind of illegal business and for you to decide - pay it or not.
When To ClimbIt depends on the route you choose. The normal one from Russia to the North Summit is better to climb in July-August-early September. Some routes are better to climb in winter because of summer stonefalls.
CampingNo huts, no fees. Camping is free
Mountain ConditionsUshba has its own local weather conditions. Normally they are worse then somewhere in the area. The weather is better in full moon periods. No web-cams or weather related websites.
External Links- www.alexclimb.com
Mountain climbing in Caucasus, information of recent climbs, guide services in Caucasus
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