Kazbek (5033 m), it is one of the highest and the most beautiful mountains of Caucasus. It is located in the East part of Central Caucasus, in Georgia. As Elbrus, Kazbek is also extinct volcano which is appreciable from its conic form with distinctive remains of ancient gigantic crater.
Technically Kazbek is not difficult for climbing. The Normal route is PD, mostly glacier walking, the crux is 100 m of easy ice climbing in the couloir near the summit (not steeper then 40 deg.) Kazbek is a very popular object for climbing because of its simplicity and convenient location.

There are many tales, legends and interesting historical facts about this mountain. On the altitude 3800 m in the cave which entrance is in the upper part of 80 m rock, there is ancient monastery Betlemi (Bethlehem). By chronicles "Kartlis Tshovreba" this monastery was used as a depository of sanctuary and church treasury. Its monks got in by the long iron chain.
Other legend refers to some more distant times when after the squabble in the heaven because of the stolen fire Prometheus was chained to the rock. This rock was Kazbek.
The most famous place near Kazbek is the ancient monastery of Saint Trinity Sameba which was built in XIV century on the high hill just above the nearest settlement Kazbegi.
Mikhail Lermontov mentions this peak in a Hero of our Time and in his famous poem Mtsyri

"Where merge Aragva and her twin,
Kura and fast rush onward, in
Times past, a lonely cloister stood;
By fields, a dense and o'ergrown wood
Encircled 'twas.... A wayfarer,
Toiling uphill, will see what were
A gate and gateposts once and, too,
A church.... To-day, no incense to
Its round dome coils, nor do a prayer
The humble monks chant, hoarse-voiced, there.
Alone, forgot by death and men,
A bent old greybeard, denizen
Of these remote and desolate hills,
Over the ruins watches still
And daily wipes the dust that clings
To tombs, of which the letterings
Of glories past speak and of things
Of like note. Of a tsar one such
Tells who by his gold crown was much
Weighed down, and did of Russia gain
The patronage o'er his domain.
Twas then God's love descended on
The land, and Georgia bloomed, and gone
Her old fears were and old suspense:
Of friendly bayonets a fence
Did, bristling, rise in her defence."

Author: Peter Schoen
Date: Dec 26, 2005 3:58 PM

As far as I know, it is not sure whether Prometheus was chained to Mkinvartsveri/Kazbek - most early Greek authors refer to a peak in the Caucasus or "Mt. Caucasus", not specifying which mountain is meant.
Mt. Kazbek is a likely candidate though, considering it´s shape.

However, a similar (but different in certain aspects) legend indeed takes place on Kazbek - the one of Amirani, one of the legends of Georgian mythology.
He was imprisoned on Mt. Kazbek after challenging God (who had given him great powers) himself.

Author: Peter Schoen
Date: Jan 20, 2006 12:30 PM
Mkinvartsveri is the 3rd highest peak in Georgia after Shkara (5068 m) and Janga/Jangi-Tau (5058 m), and the

6th highest in the Caucasus (and Europe) - after
Elbrus (5633 m)
Dych-Tau (5204 m)
Koshtan (5151 m)
Shkara (5068 m)
Janga-Tau (5058 m)

(not counting the Elbrus East Summit and Janga-Tau West Summit)

Climbing history

The name Kazbek was given to this mountain by Russians who inhabited the Northern side of the Main Caucasian Mountain Range. The native name of this mountain is Mkinvartsveri - in translation from Georgian it means The Mountain With Ice Head..

SP member Corax writes: another name of the mountain is Mkinvari which means The Ice Mountain

The first time Kazbek was climbed by Duglas Freshfield in 1868. Other significant successful ascension of Kazbek is the climb of famous Georgian scientist G. Nikoladze in 1923 from which begins the history of Georgian mountaineering.

Getting There

From Tbilisi by car or regular bus to Kazbegi village (150 km). There is one not bad hotel in this village and many possibilities for renting a room. Other way is to camp somewhere near the old monastery (1,5-2 hours from the village). The place is one of the most beautiful places in the world.
From the monastery a long day walking by a clearly visible trek to the former meteostation which now works as mountain hut. The place is relatively comfortable and cheap. From here begins the most of Kazbek routes, including the Normal one.

Information about climbing Kazbek and other mountains in Caucasus is available on the ALEXCLIMB web-page. Also there you can hire a guide and find partners for climbing.

SP member Pulsar writes: Key to meteostation: This is a word of caution for climbers who plan to climb Kazbek. During peak season, the hut "Meteostation" is almost permanently populated with expeditions. You will not have difficulties to sleep there then. However, outside the main season, it is possible that you find the hut closed. The key is kept down in the village Kazbegi, an the keeper lives along the trail uphill to the Trinity churche, at the rim of the village. It will be wise to inform down in Kazbegi prior to your trip if the hut is open to avoid unpleasant surprises.

Author: Peter Schoen
Date: Dec 29, 2005 10:12 AM
Beware that this border crossing is often closed to foreigners. Get infos about the current situation if you want to head from Kazbek to Russia or from Russia to Kazbek (e.g. if you want to combine Kazbek and Elbrus).

The Lonely Planet Thorn Three is a good place to ask - http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/, and also the embassies.

Red Tape

No climbing regulations are present. No permits, no fees. Camping is allowed anywhere. The only thing which is common for all the mountains - do not leave your trash there.

When To Climb

Kazbek is climbable all the year but the most convenient time is summer (June-September)

Camping

Camping is allowed anywhere. The only hut is the former meteostation.

Mountain Conditions

One advise - do not try this mountain without guide or GPS - the weather changes are quite sudden, the routes are quite long. To get lost is very easy job on the flat glacier with a lot of deep crevices.

External Links

More information about the peak

Images



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