Overview
Considered one of the easier alpine objectives in the relatively remote and otherwise notoriously challenging Picket Range of the Washington State Cascades, West McMillan Spire is located among some of the most beautiful and rugged mountains in the Northwest. The 19-mile round trip from car to summit and back via the moderate West Ridge includes a brushy, vague, and bone-jarring approach trail, a short and moderate snow climb to an 800-ft., class 3-4 scramble which terminates at a cozy summit pyramid with jaw-dropping views in all directions. Although my partner Erick Johnson and I chose to race through the climb in a single 12-hour effort [car-to-summit time: 6 hours, 33 minutes], the area really deserves a more sedate, and contemplative treatment--there's just too much gorgeous scenery in the well-known Mount Terror Basin to rush the thing.
Some good local trip reports give valuable insights into the conditions to be expected on the climb, as well as references to guidebooks for the route:
http://www.sverdina.com/west_mcmillan_spire/west_mcmillan_spire1.htm
http://www.ericsbasecamp.net/trips/TerrorBasin/TerrorBasin.htm
http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2003/mcmillan.htm
http://theronwelch.com/mountains/pnw/north/pickets/mcmillan/
Getting There
As montioned, the peak is located in the locally famous Terror Basin of the Picket Range in the Washington State Cascades. As an aid to navigation here's a link to a topo map of the area, referenced on a local climber's website:
http://ericsbasecamp.net/trips/TerrorBasin/TerrorBasinMap.htm
DRIVING DIRECTIONS from SEATTLE:
From I-5 take the Cook Road exit (Exit 232) east to Sedro Woolley and the junction with State Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) Drive highway 20 east 60 miles (14 miles east of marblemount) to the town of Newhalem. Across Highway 20 (the north side) from the Newhalem campground, turn north onto the unpaved road into Goodell Creek drainage. Follow the road, taking the right-hand (uphill) branch. Follow signs to the group campground (1 mile). The unmarked trailhead (at 600 feet elevation) is located at the south end of the group campgrounds at a small parking area.
Red Tape
I hate camping, so I never bother with such bureaucratic annoyances as permits and the like. True bowed-back climbers and other alpine hardmen who relish the prospect of spending consecutive nights shivering under plastic tarps and panting with tachycardiac desperation can get in line at the Marblemount Ranger Station and grab the requisite overnight permit before heading out.
When To Climb
Our climb took place in mid July, and we found conditions on the mountain to be perfect--a dry, if crude, approach trail, good snow on the Terror Glacier all the way to the terminal ridge, and dry rock for the final summit scramble.
Camping
You can camp in the Terror Basin, but you'll need a permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station, located in the nearby town of Marblemount.
Mountain Conditions
Some of my favorite links for local mountain weather conditions on the West and East slopes of the Cascades, respectively, are:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/total_forecast/index.php?wfo=sew&zone=waz017&fire=waz658&county=wac061
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/total_forecast/index.php?wfo=otx&zone=waz042&fire=waz682&county=wac007
Additionally, the North Cascades Webcam, which coincidentally has a camera in the Terror Basin itself, is available at:
http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/webcams/parks/nocacam/nocacam.cfm
http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/webcams/parks/nocacam/nocacam.cfm
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