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| Birnhorn   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Steinberge/Pinzgau, Austria, Europe Lat/Lon: 47.47480°N / 12.73380°E Elevation: 8641 ft / 2634 m | Page By: cjaniesch Created/Edited: Sep 27, 2005 / Dec 18, 2005 Object ID: 154736 Hits: 2758 Loading... Page Score: 90.63% - 36 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Gepgraphical structure: Eastern Alps > Steinberge > Leoganger Steinberg Subgroup
Birnhorn is the main peak in the Leoganger Steinberg, a small massif between the Saalach Valley and the valley of the Leoganger Ache.
With its 2634 meters the mountain is the highest peak in the whole Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge Group and is very impressive from all sides. Its main feature is the 1500 meters high South Face (the fifth highest mountain face in the entire Alps) that falls down steeply to the foot of the Örgenkessel just to the north of the town of Leogang.
The mountain´s East and Northeast Faces rise above the vast karst fields of Hochgrub and Ebersberg Kar, barren limestone wastes of glacial origin that build hanging valleys above the Saalach River. Avalanches coming down the South Face feed Central Europes lowest glacier (a tiny one though), lying at 1250 meters in the vincinity of the Birnbachloch, the giant source of the Örgenbach, that is protected as a natural monument.
Birnhorn offers a variety of climbing routes of all difficulties in sound limestone. All routes are quite long as the floors of the valleys surrounding the peak do not exceed 800 meters. If not staying in the Passauer Hütte lying high up on the Hochgrub, you have to be prepared for a long day with the reward of escaping the crowds that rather focus on the neighbouring Berchtesgadener Alps.
The climbing history of Birnhorn is well documented and some legends have participated. The first tourist to reach the summit was Thurwieser together with Stachesberger in 1831 on the Normal Route. In 1861 Hofer was the first to climb parts of the South Face by what is today known as the Hofersteig. Purtscheller climbed the Southwest Ridge in 1879 and Oberlader the South Face in its entirety in around 1900. Markus Schmuck of Broad Peak fame was the first to repeat the latter route in winter (1953).
Purtscheller described the view from the summit as the most beautiful and comprehensive he had seen in the Northern Limestone Alps. To the east are the Berchtesgadener Alps, to the south the Hohen Tauern (including Grossglockner). The Kaiser Gebirge to the west and the Loferer Steinberg to the north complete the view. This is at least what you can expect to see on a clear day, sadly I have been less fortunate, so please post your panoramas!
Getting There
The small town of Leogang is the most common base for climbs in the Leoganger Steinberg.
The best way to reach Leogang is of course by car. For an exact route from anywhere in Europe check out map24.de.
Leogang is connected to the Austrian railway system and can be easily reached by train.
The actual trailhead for the climb is the parking lot at the Gunzenreit Farm a little to the north of the train station. Parking is free.
Routes Overview
The first glimpse of the top from the "Hofersteig" from about 300 meters under the summit cross.
A lot of routes, some with a variety of variations lead to the summit of Birnhorn, here is an overview of the principal ones (difficulties according to UIAA standards).
Normal Route over Kuchelnieder:
Grade I. From the Passauer Hütte up onto the Southwest Ridge and by way of a series of ledges to the summit. See the separate Route Page for more detailed information.
South Face “Hofersteig”:
Grade I-II. From the Passauer Hütte through the Melkerloch and into the South Face. By way of ledges and some small escarpments to the summit. See the separate Route Page for more detailed information.
South Face “Albin Roessel Weg”:
Grade IV+. From the Birnbachloch up the middle of the South Face. This route joins the “Hofersteig” at about 2200 meters.
Southwest Ridge:
Grade III. From Leogang to the Ritzenkarscharte and from there to the summit following the ridge.
East Ridge:
Grade IV. From the Passauer Hütte to the foot of the East Ridge. Follow the course of this ridge to the summit.
Northeast Face:
Grade IV+. Follow the Normal Route over the Kuchenieder to the north side of Birnhorn. Over scree to the top of the alluvial fan under the Noetheast Face and from there to the summit.
Red Tape
No red tape, no fees or any other constraints!
When To Climb
Birnhorn might be climbed year around.
The summer season starts around mid June and as the Leoganger Steinberg is known for its stable weather in autumn the usual time window for climbs in the Northern Limestone Alps extends here into November.The Normal Route over the Kuchelnieder is also a popular ski route in winter and spring.
For a detailed weather forecast for Saalfelden, the nearest weather station (7 km from Leogang), click here.
For avalanche conditions take a look at the website of the Salzburger Lawinenwarndienst.
Camping
Camping is possible near the parking lot and good water can be had from from the Örgenbach. Camping higher up is not recommended as there is no running water anywhere on the large karst fields Hochgrub and Ebersberg Kar.
Those who don´t want to do the whole climb in a day can stay at the Passauer Hütte which sits at 2033 meters. Birnhorn is a climb of less than 2 hours from here.
Books and Maps
There are no English titles. The standart guidebook for the area is the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) Guide "Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge" (3rd edition 1991) from Stockklauser and Stocker.
The best map that covers the whole area is the German Alpine Club (DAV) map "Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge (1.25000)"
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