Overview

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Berchtesgadener Alps as seen from the Northwest Flank of Grosses Ochsenhorn.
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Grosses Ochsenhorn is the main peak of the Loferer Steinberg a small massif lying between the Pillersee and the Saalach Valley. With a height of 2513 meters it is also the second highest peak of the Steinberge Group. Rising 1800 meters above the surrounding valleys, the mountain constitutes, together with the Reifhörner (2488 meters) and Breithorn (2413 meters), an impressive backdrop to the town of Lofer, the namesake of the group.

Despite the lenght of the routes Grosses Ochsenhorn is a quite popular mountain, at least on the Normal Route. The climb itself is nevertheless interesting and the approach march leads over the karst field of the Grosse Wehrgrube, where you come across a lot of big, seemingly bottomless dolines and other stunning forms of erosion common for limestone of which Grosses Ochsenhorn is made up.

H. Fill seems to have been the first to climb the peak via the East Ridge in 1897. The following year Cranz and Horngacher took to the difficult West Ridge and Fill (together with G. Sock) was back in 1900 to ascend the West Face. Since then a lot of routes and variations have been established, the last one in 1990 by Lechner and Stocker who climbed the Southwest Pillar (VI+).

The view from the top are outstanding. The Kaisergebirge is visible to the west beyond the Pillersee while to the north the lower hill-like mountains of the Chiemgau Alps and Bavarian Forealps stretch away towards the plains. The Leoganger Steinberg lies to the south while the view to the east encompasses most of the Berchtesgadener Alps, including Watzmann.

Routes Overview

Grade I-II. From the von Schmidt-Zabrierow Hütte a short way up the West Face to the beginning of the Northwest Flank and following a minor ridge to the top. See the separate Route Page for more detailed information.

East Ridge: Grade I. Gain the notch between Mittleres and Grosses Ochsenhorn from Maria Kichtal and follow the east ridge to the top.

West Ridge: Grade V. From the Kleine Wehrgrube to the top of the Rotlscharte and following the serrated West Ridge to the summit.

West Face: Grade III. Into the Kleine Wehrgrube and up the West Face until this joins the route up the West ridge at about 2200 meters.

North Face: Grade III. From Maria Kirchtal to the Grosse Schneegrube at the foot of the North Face and from there to the top.

Getting There

The town of Lofer is the most common base for climbs in the Loferer Steinberg.

The best way to reach Lofer is by car. For an exact route from anywhere in Europe check out map24.de. If not being in a hurry and coming from the direction of Munich it is worth to leave the motorway A8 at the exit Bernau am Chiemsee and drive along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse, Germanys most scenic road.

Lofer is not connected to the Austrian railway system but a search on the website of the ÖBB will give you a clue of how to reach the town by means of public transport.

The actual trailhead for the climb is the parking lot at the Loferer Hochtal, 5 minutes driving from the town itself. Parking is free.

Red Tape

No red tape, no fees or any other constraints!

When To Climb

The von Schmidt-Zabrierow Hütte has a commanding position on the Grosse Wehrgrube. In the background the peaks of Nackter Hund (2372 meters) and Grosses Hinterhorn (2506 meters)

Grosses Ochsenhorn might be climbed year around, though winter climbs are for the very experienced only!

The summer season starts around mid June and as the Steinberge are generally known for their stable weather in autumn the usual time window for climbs in the Northern Limestone Alps extends here into November.

To inform yourself about current conditions check out the weather forecast for Lofer. There is another weather station higher up at the Lofer Alm (1632 meters) to the north of the town.

For avalanche conditions take a look at the website of the Salzburger Lawinenwarndienst.

Camping

Camping is possible at the parking lot at the head of the Loferer Hochtal which also serves as the trailhead. Higher up on way to the mountain are a couple of good spots to pitch a tent but there is no water anywhere.

For those who don´t want to do the climb in a day and rather like to stay in a hut, the beautifully situated von Schmidt-Zabrierow-Hütte is the only option in the Loferer Steinberg. The hut sits at 1966 meters on the Grosse Wehrgrube and is reached in a good three hours from the trailhead. The summit of Grosses Ochsenhorn is a 2 hours climb from here.

Maps and Books

There are no English titles. The standart guidebook for the area is the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) Guide "Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge" (3rd edition 1991) from Stockklauser and Stocker.

The best map that covers the whole area is the German Alpine Club (DAV) map "Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge (1.25000)"

Images