Overview
Mountain stands in "Bezengi Wall" at the far right. It offen been climbed by west ridge thru the Lyalver peak and thru the "4310" peak.
The easiest route is by the west ridge thru the Lyalver peak. But it is more dangeros because of stonefalls from Lyalver's ridge.
The route thru the "4310" is most popular. It is more difficulte but much more safer. Climbers summit the "4310" peak by the north rib and then follows the ridge that is leading to the Gestola summit.
Getting There
Bezengi region of Caucasus can be reached by car from Nalchik or from Mineralnye Vody. It will take 3-4 hours. You need to cooperate with administration of Bezengi baze, and they will organize your trip to the Bezengi.
e-mail of Bezengi alp-baze: bezengi mail
Approach to bivouac site by Bezengi glacier before it turns to the left. Then turn right and follow the glacier leading to the Lyalver pass. Before icefall - turn to the right and climb green slopes then by snow fields and slopes climb to the left thru the small pass and then travers the slopes by good trail to the camp site.
Red Tape
No permittes required.
Bus from Nalchik to Bezengi costs aprx. 50-100 US dollars. Depends of size.
In the "Dychtau" page is a lot of information Dychtau
I have readed about red tape in that page - it is said that there is the national park. this isn't true. There is no national parks. The fee of 3 USD
is fee for staying in tents on the territory of Bezengi Camp. Also that fee
includes radio-sets that are given to the climbers to be in touch with the
base camp. And hot shower is also included.
So if you are going to make trakking without staying in the Bazengi Camp - you don't have to pay any fees.
When To Climb
Climbing period is from June to September.
The weather is often getting worse after midday. Lightnings.
You must plan your climbs to start earlier and get to the bivouac before the rain starts.
Camping
There is climbing sport base in the valley.
Camping is allowed in any place.
Mountain Conditions
It is more or less snow on the mountain. Cornices on the ridge can be build up after huge snow falls. Mostly no avalanche danger.
Images
|
