The El Altar is one of the oldest volcanic mountains in Ecuador. From the top you have a fantastic view over the Chimborazzo, Tungurahua, Sangay, the surrounding rain forest and the old crater. Because it is the most difficult mountain to climb in Ecuador it is rarely climbed. The Obispo peak at the South side of the mountain is the highest peak and climbed for the first time by an Italian team in juli 1963. Other peaks on El Altar, Tabernaculo, Monja Grande, Monja Chico and El Canonino are even more desolate.

Getting There

Best way to get to the mountain is by Riobamba or Banjos and entering by Penipe Candelaria and finally Vaqueria de Inqusai. You can get to the mountain in various ways: rental car (Expensive)Taxi, public bus or hitch-hiking. Organizing your transport through a travel agency (Guide) can make finding the start of the climb a lot easier (some might say less adventurous). .The climb to the basecamp can be done in one long day or two shorter days.
El Altar, Obispo peak

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No fees or permits are necessary

When To Climb

The mountain is mostly climbed during december when there are sometimes stable conditions and there is enough snow in the couloir and on the rocks. Normally you need a weather gap to climb it. Best route is the Dutch route (climbed by vd Gevel/ Zijerveld en Gulden in 1991)

Camping

You can camp at the former Italian campsite on the Campala ridge. There is a place for one big or two small tents. Note: you should bring a waterfilter or lots of fuel to melt snow.

Mountain Conditions

There are only 2 or 3 guides in Ecuador that climb El Altar. You should inform yourself. Normally good climbers don't need a guide but porters or mules to take luggage to the campsite are recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

The route that is mentioned in the most guides as the best way to climb the Obispo peak is the Italian route. The first length to the first ice field has become tricky and sometimes impossible. Also the ice couloir at the top of the Italian route has changed into shooting gallery. It is better to take the Dutch route that starts at the same spot but take's off to the right side were a small gully leads directly tot a ice ridge which leads to the first ice field. A small traverse and a steep almost vertical ice passage (3 meters) will take you to the second ice field. that leads directly to the top couloir. After 2 rope lenghts in the topcouloir you can step out to the right (piton) and a passage 5 rock step (UIAA) will lead to the top slope (rotten rock).The Dutch route was first climbed by Cas van de Gevel, Leo Zijerveld and Jan Gulden in 1992. It is a TDinf alpine route, 75 degree ice (1 length) and 1 passage rock degree 5-. The rest of the route is snow and/or ice maximum 50 degree. Highly recommended as it is a very straight line to the top.

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