Lighthouse Tower is a mid-sized spire located above the Big Bend area of the Colorado River 7 miles outside of Moab on the River Road (UT 128). It is located on a ridge that partially connects the Big Bend Butte (to the NW of Lighthouse) to the parent mesa (SE of Lighthouse). Dolomite Spire sits immediately next to Lighthouse tower in the same “gap” and is slightly taller. The tower is probably somewhere between 250 and 300 feet (on river side) and is composed primarily of the relatively high quality Wingate sandstone – way better than Arches formations though probably not quite as solid as Castle Valley towers.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATION:
Don't ever add gear on existing routes but especially here please don't be tempted to add anything fixed to the summit. If you could pull the moves on the easiest line up the tower (Lonely Vigil), you should be able to boulder up and downclimb the summit block w/o the need for fixed rap anchor.

DON’T SPOIL THE SOIL!
Much of the SE Utah desert is home to Cryptobiotic Soil Crust. Watch where you step as this stuff is extremely sensitive and this “stuff” is also what’s keeping erosion at bay on hillsides. The NPS recommends using established trails, sandstone slabs, and/or sandy washes for your foot travel. For further information see the many links provided by Dr. Brian Jenkins: link 1, link 2, link 3, link 4, link 5, link 6

While on the topic, don’t soil the soil either! Don’t be a filthy animal and pack out your solid waste!

Getting There

From The West (Moab, UT)
Just beyond the northern outskirts of Moab, UT along US 191, make a right (NE) onto UT 128 (a.k.a. River Road). This is immediately before the bridge as you’re driving from Moab. Follow the River Road for 7 miles and park just after mile marker 7 – some pullouts on the right side of road and more on the left side.

From The East (Colorado)
From I70 in UT, take exit 212 and follow the frontage road through the ghost town of Cisco (~ 5.7 miles from the exit) on a SW heading. Turn left onto River Road (UT 128) and follow it past the turn off for Castle Valley Road (at 28 miles from exit) until just before mile marker 7. Park at one of the pullouts on either the river side of the road or the other side.

The Hike
Lighthouse Tower is obvious from the River Road. Pick the easiest line and boulder hop your way to its base. Generally stay on boulders and wash bottoms to minimize trampling the crypto soil. Your goal is the notch just right of the base of Lighthouse Tower (notch separates tower from parent cliff to its right when viewed from River Road). Approach time is 45-60 minutes. A 30-foot 5.7 pitch (see Lonely Vigil page for information on this approach pitch) needs to be done to access the other side of tower (and start of some routes including Lonely Vigil) via the notch. Alternatively, some guidebooks suggest hiking around the Big Bend Butte (left of Dolomite Spire which in turn is left of Lighthouse Tower when viewed from River Road) to access the backside (opposite of River Road) routes on tower.

Big Bend

Red Tape

None. Dogs are allowed but please pick up their turds. Avoid trampling the crypto soil (see above) as much as possible. Please practice low impact backcountry behavior.

When To Climb

Year round. Winters can be wet sometimes and the area does get cold. Summers are oppresively hot no doubt.

Also check: Moab Climate Summary Page.

Camping

Lonely Vigil

Good free camping can be had at the trailheads for The Priest and Castleton Tower. There are no water sources in the backcountry however. More specifically, good (primitive) campsites are available off of the dirt road near the trailheads for these towers. However, best campsites can be found along the second dirt road – i.e. from Castle Valley Road, pass the trailhead turn off road at 4.6 miles and take the second dirt road (also on left) few hundred yards further. Several hundred yards from Castle Valley Road look for campsites.

Mountain Conditions

Local climbing information can be obtained from the friendly folks in the local climb shop, Pagan Mountaineering located in Moab, UT. Their number is 435-259-1117.

Routes And Guidebooks Overview

Lonely Vigil

This is a summary of routes (quite a list for such a small tower) on this tower including the information listed for each route by the given guidebook. Bjornstad gives all routes an “S” rating qualifier since all routes (except Are You Experienced) share the same summit “pitch”. S means “hurt on fall”.

(1) Poseidon Adventure. Knapp: III 5.10, 4-pitches, text description only. Burns: not listed. Green: III 5.9+, 5-pitches, text description and nice-looking photo with route topo overlayed. Bjornstad: III 5.10 R, S, 4-pitches, text description but no topo.

(2) Iron Maiden. Knapp: III 5.12a+ R A2, 4-pitches, text description only. Burns: not listed. Green: III 5.12a R, 3-4 pitches, text description and nice-looking photo with route topo overlayed. Bjornstad: III 5.12a R, S, 4-pitches, text description but no topo.

(3) Lonely Vigil. Knapp: II 5.9, 4-pitches, poor-quality text description and a poor-quality photo with overlayed route. Burns: II 5.10- R, 4-pitches, good text description and pretty good topo (again, there’s no 5.9 on pitch 3 though). Green: II 5.10, 4-pitches, good text description and a nice route topo (probably the most accurate though again no 5.9 moves on pitch 3). Bjornstad: III 5.10 S, 4-pitches, brief but accurate text description but no topo.

Descriptions for these routes below can be found ONLY in Bjornstad’s guidebook:

(4) Northeast Route. Bjornstad: III 5.9+ S, 5-pitches. Text description but no topo.

(5) Jamaroni . Bjornstad: II 5.10 S, 3-pitches.

(6) Are You Experienced. Bjornstad: I 5.10c, 1 pitch (non-summit route). Text description but no topo.

Images



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