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| Cima Canali   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Trentino, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.24326°N / 11.86180°E Activities: Scrambling Season: Summer Elevation: 9505 ft / 2897 m | Page By: Uomodeimonti Created/Edited: Dec 31, 2006 / Dec 31, 2006 Object ID: 255714 Hits: 858 Loading... Page Score: 88.67% - 11 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Fantastic mountain, one of the most important of Pale di San Martino and of whole Dolomiti. Very very known in mountaineering environments of all the world. It lies in a secondary branch of Pale di San Martino ( that one which starts from Passo Pradidali Basso and ends with Cima di Sèdole ), between Cima Wilma and Sasso delle Lede and between Val Pradidali and Vallon delle Lede. It's formed by an incredible number of towers and pinnacles, that give it a form like a cathedral. In the enormous whole of this mountain we can distinguish, also because of their great importance for the climbers, Campanile Canali, at north, m 2780, Figlia della Canali, at south, m 2711, Pala Canali, Torre Gialla, Pilastro Brunet-Pellican, Salame, Gemello and Pilastro Edvige. Everywhere the rock is good.
The first ascent had done in 1879 by C.C. Tucker and M. Bèttega going up from SW, and this route became then the actual normal route. We must indicate other wonderful climbs: the route opened in 1894 by G. Zecchini and L.W. Brodie along the N wall, that one by K. Plaichinger and R. Hamburger along the E wall, opened in 1913; that one by H. Kees and F. Terschak along the E wall again opened in 1914; the route along the W wall opened in 1927 by F. Simon and F. Wiessner; that one opened in 1930 on Torre Fontein by F. Fontein and E. Solleder, the route by E. Castiglioni and B. Detassis along the S wall of Pala Canali; the wonderful route by H. Buhl and H. Herweg along the Pilastro Ovest, that one opened in 1951 by G. Franceschini, B. Ferrario and G. Bongiana along the SW wall of Figlia della Canali.
The normal route is difficult, probably more than that 3rd degree which is attributed to it by the first reporters. More difficult, for example, than the normal route to Cimòn della Pala, but it is no doubt one of the most fun " normal " of the whole Dolomiti.
You must start from Pradidali Hut m 2278, cross the valley and go up along the scree that goes down from Cima Canali. Follow a little path that goes towards the canal that divides Cima Canali from Figlia della Canali, cross the snowy tongue at the base of the canal ( go quickly here, danger of falling rocks! ), go up along the right edge ( orographic left ) and along easy rocks you approach a little canal, closed by a dihedron with a crack, and here is the start of the route. 1)-6) Before the dihedron begins, you must overcome a difficult little wall ( 5 meters ) and then you go up along the great rib that belongs to Figlia della Canali and enter again in the canal when you are by now at 2/3 of it. 7) You go over the snow, don't go immediately on the left towards a crack, but follow the red marks that cross them too in the direction of the crack, but more over a niche. You continue along a frame and reach the stop over the wall ( difficult, probably 4° degree ). 8) Continue on the left, along exposed rocks, going down and entering again into the canal, go up along a lateral groove and then go on the right ( 40 meters, 1st degree ).9) You overcome a little wall and continue along a little canal ( 30 meters, 2nd degree ). 10) Go along a frame on the left and enter again into the canal and go up along it up to the saddle between Cima Canali and Figlia ( 40 meters, 2nd and 1st degree ). You surround a little pinnacle that divides in two parts the saddle and easily reach the higher part of it, soon under the mass of Cima Canali. 11) You go along a little edge up to a ledge, oblique on the left along little walls and a short canal that leads to a ledge ( stop, 45 meters of 2nd degree ). 12) You continue in the canal, don't go along the crack that goes to the top of it but choose on the left another crack that leads to another stop ( 30 meters, 1st and 2nd degree ). You go up along gravels to the base of a vertical crack. 13) Climb the crack directly: when you arrive to a sticked block you turn on the right and reach the upper frame ( 15 meters, 3rd+ degree ). 14)-15) You go up on the right along the rocks that lead to the summit ridge ( 70 meters, 2nd degree ). You go along a frame and, gone beyond a false summit, you arrive to the top. ( Report by Luca Visentini ).
TIMES OF RANGE : Pradidali Hut m 2278 - start of the route = h 0.30
Start of the route - Summit = h 3.30
DROPS : Pradidali Hut - Summit = 619 m
Getting There
To reach Pradidali Hut you have to go to Trento or Belluno, by train or by car, and go up to Fiera di Primiero. Here turn on the right and follow the road that leads to Passo Cereda but, when you arrive to a cross, turn on the left and follow the road up to Cant del Gal, a wonderful place with two little hotels. Now you follow the path n. 709 that in h 3.00 leads to Pradidali Hut.
Gear
This climb is difficult, the size of the mountain and the awareness that you are over one of the most important mountain of Dolomiti must advise you being trained; take with you technical gear to overcome the 4° degree. There are some pitons along the route. Be careful to the weather!!
Camping
SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA : CAMPING SASS MAOR
via Laghetto, 48
38058 San Martino di Castrozza ( TN )
tel: +39-0439/68347
TONADICO : CAMPING CASTELPIETRA
loc. Castelpietra, 1
38054 Tonadico ( TN )
tel: +39-0439/62426
IMER : CAMPING CALAVISE
Villaggio Sass Maòr, 36
38050 Imèr ( TN )
tel: +39-0439/67468
External Links
www.primiero.net
www.sanmartino.com
www.primieroiniziative.it
www.primiero.it
www.meteotrentino.it Images
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