Moel Ysgyfarnod (623m) and Foel Penolau (614m), which in welsh roughly translate as Hare's Hill and the Last Summit, are the two most northern peaks in the Rhinogydd. Although the mountains are relatively close to one another, their character differs completely.

Moel Ysgyfarnod is a rounded grassy hill, which is flanked along its southern and western slopes by a series of small crags and buttresses. Its north-western side is home to a small cwm containing an even smaller lake, which has been appropriately named Llyn Dywarchen, which means Turf Lake. Anyone who views the lake will understand. During the 19th century the area was exploited by quarriers and miners, the works of whom now litter the local landscape. In the 20th century however, these industries collapsed, and the area has been slowly returning to the landscape described by Geraldus as “ the rudest and roughest district of all Wales”.

It’s northward twin, Foel Penolau, despite its smaller stature is a much rockier and more formidable beast. Its flat, slabby summit is completely encircled by cliffs and broken stone, and one must pull their hands out of their pockets to reach it. Rock climbing began here in the late 1990s, and since then a small handful of routes have been put up on its southern side. There’s little for the novice here though, with the easiest route coming in at a respectable Very Severe 4b.

The mountains can be reached from both the east and western sides of the range. In the west there are a variety of starting points, parking is available, either in small car parks or on the roadside, at Moel-glo (SH 628 342), Bryn Bwbach (SH 627 370) and near Tallin (SH 649 379). In the east parking is available at Moelfryn (SH 683 360) and near Cefn Clawdd (SH 679 337).

Moel Ysgyfarnod and Foel Penolau from Llyn Trawsfynydd (Photo by Nanuls)

Routes

Rock Climbing

The climbing at this spot is split between a number of small, compact buttress which surround the peaks.

Unless otherwise stated, routes are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers Club Guide to Meirionnydd, so for full descriptions, please refer to this source. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above.

Please be aware that the Rhinog Range is a trad climbing venue and bolting is strictly prohibited. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE!

Route Symbols:

	A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated.
	A good route which is definitely worth a climb.
	A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention.
	An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.

	No Restrictions Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route.
	Restrictions Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

Moel Ysgyfarnod

Foel Penolau

South Face

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
1.	Purrfection	7m	1	E1	5a
2.	Small Wonder	9m	1	VS	4b
3.	Grach	12m	1	E1	5b
4.	On Secret Sand	15m	1	E5	6a
5.	All This and Heaven Too	15m	1	E3	5c
6.	Politician's Wall	15m	1	E4	6b
7.	Misunderstood	15m	1	E1	5b
8.	Do the Monkey	13m	1	E2	5c
9.	Stranger's Solace	13m	1	E1	5a
10.	Subterranean Leg Injector	15m	1	E2	5b
11.	In Whose Footsteps?	12m	1	HVS	4c
12.	Greywacke Race	10m	1	E3	6a

North-west Face

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
13.	Dehydration	8m	1	E3	6a
14.	Dry Throat of Fear	8m	1	E3	6a
15.	The Last Nut on Earth	10m	1	E3/4	5c
16.	Don't Poop on my Parade	10m	1	HVS	5b
17.	A Fut Above the Rest	10m	1	E2	6a

Mountain Conditions

This section displays the weather forecast for Trawsfynydd, which is located to the east and is one of the nearest towns to the two peaks. Remember that Trawsfynydd sits at around 230 metres above sea level whereas the summit of Moel Ysgyfarnod reaches 623m. This means that when looking at temperature the adiabatic lapse rate must be taken into account, which in Wales is a drop in temperature of between 0.5 and 1°C per 100m in altitude. Exposure and wind speed can also significantly lower temperatures.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

When To Climb and Essential Gear

Moel Ysgyfarnod and Foel Penolau can be climbed at anytime of the year, however, in poor conditions the mountain's rock routes are best avoided, particularly if the weather has been wet. March to April offer the most reliable conditions. Of course this all depends on ones ability as a mountaineer/climber, and what might be comfortable for some may seem daunting for others.

If your lucky enough to climb the mountains in winter conditions then an ice axe and crampons are essential.

Moel Ysgyfarnod
(Photo by Nanuls)

Llyn Eiddew-bach
(Photo by Nanuls)

Getting There

The eastern part of the range can be accessed via the A470 which runs from Dolgellau to Conwy and Colwyn Bay. The west can be reached by the A496, which runs along the coast from Llanulltyd near Dolgellau to Blaenau Ffestiniog in the north. To reach Moelfryn and Cefn Clawdd turn west at the junction at Cefn-gallt-y-cwm (SH 710 345) just south of Trawsfynydd (SH 707 355).

Moel-glo, Bryn Bwbach and Tallin can be reached easily from the A496, which runs along the coast from Llanulltyd near Dolgellau in the south to Blaenau Ffestiniog in the north.

Red Tape and Access

No red tape! Although unlikely it is worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Foel Penolau
(Photo by Nanuls)

Moel Ysgyfarnod
(Photo by Nanuls)

Llyn Eiddew-bach
(Photo by Nanuls)

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Snowdonia National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Gwynedd

For more local options, there are a number of campsites that surround the range; Cae Adda (SH 690 355), which is near Llyn Trawsfynydd or Bryn Bwbach (SH 620 368) on the opposite side of the range.

Maps

View this map on Multimap.com
Get directions on Multimap.com

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 18 Harlech, Porthmadog & Bala/Y Bala

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 124 Porthmadog & Dolgellau

Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdonia South Rhinogs/Rhinogydd

Road Maps

OS Road Map 9 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

	Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams with contributions from Ian Mercer and Jeremy Moore A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
	The Mountains of England and Wales: Vol 1 Wales by John and Ann Nuttall A classic book covering the Welsh ‘Nuttalls’, which obviously include the Rhinogydd.
	Hillwalking in Wales Vol 2 by Peter Hermon The second of two guidebooks describing walking routes up every 2000-footer in Wales – covers the Moelwynion to the Tarrenydd.

Hillwalking in Snowdonia by Steve Ashton

A guidebook to nearly 70 hillwalking routes throughout Snowdonia, including the Rhinogydd.

Climbers Club Guide Wales: Meirionnydd by Martin Crocker, John Sumner, Terry Taylor, Elfyn Jones, with contributions from Mike Rosser, Mike Lewis and Dave Wrennall

The definitive climbing guide to the area. Contains detailed descriptions and excellent diagrams of all known rock routes in the Rhinogydd. An essential purchase if you plan to do a lot of climbing in Mid Wales.

Images



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