Crib Goch (923m Ordnance Datum) is a subsidiary peak of the Snowdon group and a separate mountain in its own right. At 3027 feet it is the 14th highest peak in Snowdonia and the 3rd highest of the Snowdon group, its steep, rocky vivid red flanks clearly distinguishing it from its neighbours. For the most part the Crib Goch is a narrow ridge connecting the mountain with Crib-y-Ddysgl and Snowdon itself, and it is this ridge that gives Crib Goch its fame. For those who wish to climb Crib Goch there is no straight forward route, the most common of which is an exposed Grade 1 scramble that is most commonly climbed as part of the Snowdon Horseshoe. Although Crib Goch is under 1000m in height the dangers should not be underestimated, every year somebody dies on its slopes, and in strong winds the ridge is best avoided. In winter a traverse of the ridge turns into a quality winter route (Scottish Grade I) and an ice axe, a pair of crampons and a rope are all advisable, if not essential.

Crib Goch (Photo by tphubbard)

Routes

This section summarises some of the most popular routes on Crib Goch, for a more detailed description of the various routes available I recommend the following guidebooks:

Ridges of Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Climbers Club Guidebook to Wales: Llanberis
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District
Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

Scrambling

Crib Goch (how its usually found) covered by clouds.

The Snowdon Horseshoe (Grade 1)

This route is a classic mountain traverse and one of the finest mountaineering routes south of Scotland, incorporating the almost vertical knife edge of Crib Goch with scrambles on Crib y Ddysgl and Lliwedd and a visit of Snowdons summit. The constituents of the route are briefly outlined below.

East Ridge (Grade 1)

This is the normal preliminary route on to Crib Gochs main ridge, and consists of easy scrambling up a blunt narrowing ridge directly to the summit of the peak.

North Ridge (Grade 1)

The cliffs of Dinas Mot give way to the long, gently rising North Ridge. Although the scrambling is not quite as enjoyable, this route makes for a much quieter alternative to the East Ridge, and joins said route at Crib Gochs summit.

North Ridge via Jammed Boulder Gully (Grade 3)

At the point where the Dinas Mot cliffs curve rightwards into Cwm Glas, the rockface breaks into a series of buttresses separated by steep gullies. The Jammed Boulder Gully is one of these and provides a short and tricky route up onto the North Ridge.

Traverse of Crib (Goch Grade 1)

This enjoyable scramble links Crib Goch with Snowdon and consists of scrambling over jagged rock pinnacles along a narrow ridge.

Climbing

Reade’s Route (V Diff 220ft/66m)

This is a classic mountaineering route that takes a relatively straightforward line up the right edge of Crib Goch Buttress, and can be nicely incorporated into the Snowdon horseshoe. The climb consist of 4 pitches the first of which begins with scrambling over broken rock to the proper start and the first belay point. The route then follows an easy rib for 30m, followed by a 21m climb up a short wall to the top of a pinnacle and ending with a straight line up another rib via a shallow groove.

Winter Climbing

Photo by daveyboy

Photo by munroitis

Photo by daveyboy

Photo by igneouscarl

Photo by Nanuls

Photo by mtnbiker converted

East Ridge (Grade I)

This is the normal preliminary route on to Crib Gochs main ridge, and consists of easy scrambling up a blunt narrowing ridge directly to the summit of the peak, and in winter provides good mixed climbing.

East Face (Grade I)

An excellent choice as it is often in condition, this face is gained by traversing across from the PYG track, or directly from Craig Cwm Beudy Mawr. The route offers a variety of lines on an Alpine like rockface, however care should be taken as rock fall is common particularly when the ridge above is busy.

Crib Goch – Crib y Ddysgl Traverse (Grade I)

The traverse consists of an exposed ridge walk over Crib Goch, a tricky section around the Pinnacles and an interesting ascent from Bwlch Goch onto Crib y Ddysgl. This is an exceptionally enjoyable section of the Snowdon Horseshoe.

Crib y Ddysgl – Crib Goch Traverse (Grade I)

Although it is pretty much a simple reversal of the above route it contains an additional navigational hazard, with some climbers becoming confused and following the upper part of the Clogwyn Person Arete down into very steep and icy terrain. The true bearing onto Crib Goch runs east 105o magnetic.

The following routs are found on the northwestern face of Crib Goch:

Archer Thompson’s Route (Grade III 150m)

Takes a shallow gully in the centre of the face left of Crib Goch Buttress.

Carr’s Route (Grade III 150m)

This route takes a shallow depression just left of Crib Goch Buttress.

Crazy Pinnacle Gully (Grade II/III 100m)

A short route that follows a deep gully situated between Crazy Pinnacle Buttress and the main crag. Easy snow climbing to begin with followed with the crux of the climb at the chockstone.

Getting There

The most common starting point for Crib Goch is the Pen y Pass car park (SH 647 555), at the zenith of the Pass of Llanberis, which can be reached easily by road on the A4086 that runs between Llanberis (SH 582 598) and Capel Curig (SH 719 580).

Owing to the popularity of the route the Pen y Pass car park often fills up quickly so if you want to park there a very early start is recommended. Luckily there are other options, the first of these is an excellent park and ride which runs regularly all day (including weekends and bank holidays) from Nant Perris (SH 607 582). The second option is the Snowdon Sherpa bus service which has various stops around the mountain and runs from Llanberis, Bettws y Coed, Caernarfon, Beddgelert, Bethesda, and Porthmadog. Be sure to check timetables first as you don't want to end up missing the last bus and find yourself stuck, of course in these situations hitching is always an option.

Red Tape

No red tape, however there is a fee for the Pen y Pass car park, and you will of course have to pay for the Snowdon Sherpa. Although unlikely It is also worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Accommodation and Camping

There are several campsites around the area, including Beddgelert Forest, Cae Du, The Cwellyn Arms, Garth Farm, Bryn Gloch Caravan & Camping Park and Ynys Ettws, although none (with the exception of Ynys Ettws) are exceptionally close to Crib Goch.

There are also a number of YHA hostels in the area, the nearest of which is the Pen-y-Pass hostel, a short walk from the base of the mountain. The Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre in Capel Curig also has a bunk house, and has its own indoor climbing wall if you still feel energetic after your day on the mountain. Also the nearby towns of Capel Curig, Llanberis and Beddgelert all have various hotels, hostels, B&Bs and campsites.

Maps

View Larger Map

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 115 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa
Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdonia: Snowdon and the Moelwynion
Harvey Map Services/BMC 1: 40k British Mountain Map: Snowdonia

Road Maps

OS Road Map 9 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams
The Mountains of England and Wales: Volume 1 Wales (Cicerone Guide) by John and Anne Nuttall
Hillwalking in Wales Vol 1 (Cicerone Guide) by Peter Hermon
Hillwalking in Wales Vol 2(Cicerone Guide) by Peter Hermon
Hillwalking in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Ridges of Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Climbers Club Guidebook to Wales: Llanberis
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District
Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

External Links

The north face of Crib Goch

General

Snowdonia National Park Authority
Gwynedd County Council
Local Information from Gwynedd.com
Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net
North Wales Index
Countryside Council for Wales
The National Trust
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Gwynedd Archeological Trust
British Mountaineering Council
The Climbers Club
Hightreck Snowdonia

Weather

Mountain Weather Wales
Weather from the Met Office
Weather Channel UK

Travel

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable
Welsh Highland Railway
Snowdon Sherpa

Accomodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Beddgelert Forest Campsite
Cae Du campsite near Beddgelert
The Cwellyn Arms Campsite
Garth Farm Campsite
Bryn Gloch Caravan & Camping Park
Ynys Ettws

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Harvey Map Services
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks

Images



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