Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming are blessed with vast mountain ranges that contain numerous unnamed peaks. Some of the peaks have local or unofficial names, but many others do not. These mountains adhere to the increasingly accepted rule of having at least 300� of prominence from the saddles connecting them with other peaks. In some other states, these mountains would have official names. But in places like Wyoming, they exist in glorious obscurity.

The Absaroka Range of Montana and Wyoming is one such range, and Peak 11,694 is one such peak (and if it has a name and someone cares to tell, I'd be most appreciative). It lies on the edge of the Washakie Wilderness between East Fork and Bear Creek Passes, looming directly over the latter, in fact. Although I am not so na�ve as to think I am the only one who has ever stood atop this peak, I found no signs of human usage except in the vicinity of the two passes flanking the peak. My only company: mule deer, elk, and bighorn sheep. And lots of alpine wildflowers.

So if you like remote peaks and solitude in spectacular mountain wilderness but want them on a day hike, this peak is for you.

Route via East Fork Pass

On a topo map, this mountain looks like an easy objective and the pinnacle of a circuit hike involving two passes. In reality, it holds some little surprises, either interesting or nasty, depending upon your perspective. But because of those surprises, I strongly recommend approaching this peak via the route I describe.

Climbing Details: Approximately 10 miles RT, 2700� elevation gain, mostly Class 2 with one dangerous Class 3 section.

The photos on the left side of this section illustrate the scrambling conditions (except for the one of the lupine) and are displayed in sequence. Those on the right side mainly show the scenery.

Just past the Kirwin parking area, the road ends at a locked gate. The elevation here is about 9200�. Hike past the gate on the old road which now serves as a trail. A sign tells you that the East Fork Pass Trail is 2 miles away and that Bear Creek Pass is 5 miles way. For two miles, as you pass the ruins of old buildings remaining from Kirwin�s heyday as a mining boomtown, you gain little elevation while walking through open meadows providing generous views of surrounding peaks.

Less than a quarter-mile past the turnoff for Horse Creek Pass, the trail drops into a meadow and nearly disappears as it heads to the Wood River, which in summer is easily crossed on foot. Cross the stream (you are now on its south side) and look for a trail junction in a few minutes. There is a sign here, but it was fallen in July 2007. The left fork heads to East Fork Pass, and the right fork goes to Bear Creek Pass. NOTE: USGS topo maps indicate that this junction is BEFORE the stream crossing. They are wrong.

Go left to East Fork Pass. From here on out, the trail means business as it climbs about 1500� in about 1.5 miles. Mercifully, it does not climb through talus, though there is a stretch of steep dirt just below the pass.

At first, you will be in the trees, but that does not last long at all, maybe a quarter-mile. The rest of the way is strenuous, but compensating for it are a small gorge with some waterfalls that few people ever see, wildflower-sporting tundra, and colorful mountain peaks and ridges. The impressive peak ahead of you and just to the right of the pass may make you think it is Peak 11,694, but it isn�t; you can, however, summit it, and it affords some astonishing views not just of the area you have just hiked through but also of the moonscape below the ridges here.

From East Fork Pass at 11,171', a game trail climbs west along the ridge. The entire traverse features game trails that appear and disappear, but the slopes are gentle and the scenery open, making route-finding easy. Along the way, more false summits will appear, but the ability to read a topo map well will prove helpful in staving off the disappointment and frustration false summits bring. The traverse gets harder as one gets closer to the summit, and there is one very exposed Class 2 stretch that edges along loose rock next to a crumbly tower. Even the bighorn sheep that blazed the way for me couldn�t help but send a good deal of rock crashing down the mountainside. But just keep in mind that with care and patience, you will not meet anything harder than Class 2 until the very end.

The summit itself, which is the closest summit to Bear Creek Pass and looks down on it, is whitish in color, whereas the rock along the rest of the traverse is darker. Ascending it requires some Class 2+ clambering on loose rock. Enjoy the sweeping views, which on a clear day include Gannett Peak and the Grand Teton.

Now things get interesting. There is no way to climb directly from the summit to Bear Creek Pass, something the contour lines on topo maps do not suggest at all. Instead, you must downclimb a few feet and look for passable breaks on the north side of the summit. The best way is no harder than Class 3, but there are two caveats: 1) there are some spots with tremendous exposure, and 2) the rock here is obscenely rotten. Volcanic in origin, the rock, because of its white color, makes me think it is tuff, though I am no geologist. In any event, this stuff just crumbles when you grab it.

So you reach easier ground, something like a small plateau, and you stroll in the direction of the pass, making sure to admire the Utah-like scenery below you. Surprise! You cliff out, and though there are two spots with short (40-50�) Class 4 and 5 downclimbs that may be within your technical ability to get through, a preliminary test of the rock will tell you how stupid it would be to try such a thing. If this stuff doesn�t give under your feet or pull out as you grab it, it may instead come crashing down on your head due to the disturbance a climber would cause.

Instead, walk back along the northern edge of the �plateau� until you see a steep gully dropping into the basin below. This is the only feasible way back down short of returning the way you came, so take it. It roughly follows the eastern side of the stream running parallel to the section of the trail climbing south to Bear Creek Pass (a ridge separates the stream from the trail). The footing is often treacherous, so don�t get carried away on the nice sections where you can �ski� down the loose rock. When the gully ends, follow the stream (you can use game trails much of the way) until you reach the East Fork Trail, where you turn right to head back to the trailhead, which is now about 4 miles away. When you reach the trail, you will be close to the 10,109 BM marked on the USGS Dunrud Peak quad.

I recommend following this route for two reasons. The first is that if you don�t want to deal with the rotten Class 3 section and the gully, you can just hit the summit and go back the way you came. The second is that the gully may be tricky to find (and exhausting to climb) if you approach it from below. The drainage to follow crosses the main trail just east of a stream joining the Wood River from the north. Nearby, in July 2007 at least, was a fallen sign indicating Bear Creek Pass to the left (main trail) and Dunrud Pass to the right (trail not plainly visible). Just make it easier and safer for yourself by climbing via East Fork Pass first.

Getting There

You will have to drive to the Kirwin trailhead. 4WD is recommended, but high clearance and AWD will suffice under most warm-weather conditions. Kirwin was a mining boomtown many years ago, and several structures still remain in the area. The ruined townsite is a popular destination for locals who like to drive up for lunch and a tour, but few people outside the area know anything about Kirwin and the awesome trail system it accesses. Kirwin is also one of the most beautiful trailheads in the Rockies, with towering, brooding mountains all around it.

From Meeteetse, 32 miles south of Cody, turn west onto the signed road for Wyoming 290. In 6.4 miles, turn left onto Wood River Road. At 11.6 miles, the pavement ends. The national forest boundary is at 21.7 miles. Pass Wood River Campground at 22.4 miles and Brown Mountain Campground at 24.8 miles. The road now gets a little rougher, but it is not real 4WD stuff. At 26.8 miles is the first of four stream crossings. This one is short and usually shallow. The second river crossing is at 27 miles. This one is wider and deeper. The third crossing, which is actually two crossings in quick succession, is at 29.3 miles. These are broad but shallow. The last two miles to the trailhead are rocky but not anything to get nervous about. There is one more stream crossing just before the trailhead, but it is a tributary stream and may even be dry. The trailhead is at 33.1 miles. It took me 75 minutes to make the drive.

NOTE: In late spring, early summer, and after storms, the stream crossings could be difficult or dangerous, so get out and test them before you plow through. I have made it through in a Subaru Outback, but the crossings on the way out were a little sketchy for that car, as the stream was swollen with the previous night�s rain.

Red Tape

This is prime grizzly country, which means special rules about food storage and personal behavior are in order. I will not list them all here. Bottom line: If you don�t know, don�t go.

Road construction may affect access. It would be wise to check with the local ranger district about any access restrictions before heading in. Call 307-868-2379 (Meeteetse Ranger District).

Camping

Camping is available at the Wood River and Brown Mountain Campgrounds (see Getting There about directions). The sites go on a first-come, first-served basis, and there is a $10 camping fee. Water and pit toilets are available at both.

You could also sleep in your car at or near the trailhead.

Images



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