OverviewPlease excuse the preamble and discalimer, but they are necesary. This enterprise is doomed. There is no way any one source can provide a clear and comprehensive description of the Cathedral Spires as a climbing destination. The topography is so complex and the history so rich that any such effort will be confusing, or inadequate, or both. Since local climbers will likely have better sources, I'll try to favor clarity over completeness.
The Cathedral Spires are a distinct group of granite towers North of the Ten Pins area in the Needles. The individual summits are arrayed in six separate ridges running North-South, with the first and sixth groups more jumbled than the rest. Each ridge, or "group", takes its name from its most prominent spire, given a numerical designation. Steep gullies between the ridges provide access to the climbs. Each gully derives its name from the groups it divides; thus the "two/three gully" running between the ridge capped by spire two and the ridge capped by spire three.
The topography of the Spires offers a unique opportunity to experience solitude and exposure less than a mile off the road and two pitches off the ground. The climbing can be scary and desperate. Many of the 'easy' summit routes were put up by great climbers of the leader-must-not-fall generation. Be aware that you may face big runouts on these routes. Many are worthwhile, just be prepared to swallow your pride and climb a couple of grades below your level. Paradoxically, many of the harder routes are less psychologically taxing.
The granite in the Spires is ancient, solid, coarse-grained stone impregnated with quartz crystals. The crack systems are often discontinuous, and sometimes shallow. The gear placement, like the climbing, requires patience and cleverness. But the rewards are great as a result. By the end of many a route, you will shake your head in disbelief at the genius originally required to piece together the disparate features into a smooth, well-protected climb.
Getting ThereFrom the Sylvan Lake entrance to Custer state park, take the Needles Highway Southeast past the Needle's Eye area with it's gawking tourists and narrow tunnel. The road straightens out and widens for a bit, then switches back steeply downhill as it approaches the Ten Pins. The veiw opens into a broad valley at a hairpin righthand turn. The parking area for the Cathedral Spires trail is a wide spot in the middle of the hairpin (see the primary image above). There is a small brown sign on the left, in the middle of the curve, for the trailhead. Take the trail for about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile until you come to a branch to the right.The branch is just before the main trail turns left and goes steeply uphill. Follow the branch to a clearing front and center of the Cathedral Spires. Here, a swath of pines damaged by beetles has been cut and, as of 2007, left to lie. This has made a mess of the old trails to the gullies, but provides a better view of the approach and a good landmark. As you look across the clearing to the North, you should see the mouth of the 2/3 gully. A climber's trail leads up this gully to Cats Meow, Obelisk, and Station 13 (just over the saddle at the top of the gully). Go left around the ridge on the left (West) side of the 2/3 gully, and you are in the 1/2 gully. The entrance to the 3/4 gully is difficult to find. To get to it and the 4/5 gully, orient yourself on Freak's foot. This formation stands out as you walk right (East) from the clearing.Due North around the left side of the foot and through a jumble of small towers, lies the 3/4 gully. To get to the 4/5 gully, go right past the foot and keep the broken wall of rock formed by the tight group of spires close on your left. A faint, discontinuous trail will lead you gradually around to the left and uphill, passing over large masses of rock and under trees into the clear area at the top of the gully.
Red TapeSee the Needles area page.
CampingSee the Needles area page.
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