Scouting out an easy route on a suspect weather day, my partner and I decided on the ridgeline proper of Mothers Day Buttress, located on Cascade Mountain’s southeast face to the east (right) of the Cascade Falls and Rogan’s Gully winter ice climbs. We read at Tabvar.org that Mothers Day was a classic, but in the end, I was a bit disappointed in the climb. I thought it to be more of a glorified scramble than a climb with only one 5.7 pitch, which itself was optional. That being said, ease of access and position close to Banff make it a viable objective during suspect weather conditions which is what we faced on the day we climbed it. The buttress itself was totally socked in by fog making finding the start of the climb somewhat interesting.

Mothers Day Buttress follows a prominent line up an obvious buttress (if not shrouded in fog) (photo provided) on Cascade Mountain a km down the Lake Minnewanka Road from the TransCanada. Even though I believe this route has yet to be published (2007), it can be a popular objective on a weekend day and as evidence of rusty pitons, has been around awhile. You are not climbing on top of each other however and the route can accommodate several parties safely if following proper protocol. There are actually three other routes on Mothers Day Buttress besides the Buttress line itself.

Getting There

Routes are Listed Left to Right, West to East

Mother’s Day- 5.7, 335m/

This route would not be worth doing in my opinion, despite being labeled a classic by Chris Perry at Tabvar.org, if not for the 5.7 variation on pitch 2 and 3. We soloed the first pitch and then got into the 5.7 variation which gives up several old pins and easy gear placements. After that the route goes fast and furious for the remaining five pitches which we simul-climbed for the most part. The walk off descent/traverse (with one rappel) crossing over the top of Cascade Falls and on to Rogan’s Gully was enjoyable.

Ant Tease- 5.8, 300m/

Oedipus Complex- 5.10c, 130m/

Itchy Scratchy Show- 5.10a, 160m/

Getting There

As you enter Banff National Park on the TransCanada, you will come to the first of two exits for Banff. Take this exit and turn right on Lake Minnewanka Road. Cross the cattle guard and pull off at the first pull out on the right, not even a km from the TransCanada. Mother’s Day Buttress should be in full view up to the right (east). It is right of Cascade Falls. Walk down the road another 2kms and take the appropriate approach up the drainage depending on which route you are doing.

Red Tape

You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. Banff National Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-Canada.

When to Climb

The Mother’s Day Buttress routes are relatively non-committing, thus you can tackle them when you deem it feasible. As with most rock climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through September. I climbed Mother’s Day in August.

Camping/Lodging

There is a variety of camping around the Banff area and of course tons of lodging. There is a large RV/tent campground on your right on Tunnel Mountain Road as you approach Tunnel Mountain. You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas unless you are also in possession of a specific horse grazing permit.

Mountain/Route Conditions

The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely useful. Mother’s Day does have multiple accident reports on this site, despite being an easy climb. It is a popular route.

Images