OverviewThe Monte del Forno lies in the South-East of Switzerland at the boundary of Oberengadin and the Val Masino Alps. This part of the Val Masino Alps is not very known with hikers and climbers. Undeserved, the Forno valley is certainly a visit worth, for both hikers and climbers.
Directly behind the Forno Hütte you can find the Monte del Forno. It is probably the most climbed mountain of the area. This because of the beautifull view from the summit towards the Monte Disgrazia, Pizzo Badile and the Bernina Group.
The Monte del Forno doesn't consists of the perfect "Bergell" granite. Therefore it is less steep then as for instance the Monte Rosso. The normal route isn't very interesting and can be done in half a day. A good alternative is the traverse from the Pizzo dei Rossi to the Monte del Forno. This climb offers a long traverse on beautifull rock with easy climbing passages (II).
Getting ThereIn general:
From St.Moritz:
Go in direction of Silvaplana on highway number 27. Then follow highway number 3 to the Maloja Pas.
From Chiavenna:
Take highway number 37 to the Swiss border. Then follow highway number 3 to the Maloja Pas.
To the Forno Hut:
The Forno Hut can be reached in a 4 hour foot march of Maloja Pas. On the way up you pass the beautiful Cavloca lake, the plan Canin and the Forno glacier.
 On the way to the Forno Hütte. RoutesNormal route from the Forno Hütte
The route isn't very interesting. It offers you a climb/walk over lots of rocks with a small climbing passage (II). Halfway there is a clable to overcome a more difficult passage.
The climb takes about 2-3hours. Difficulty grade: PD/WS
Traverse: Forno Hütte -> Pizzo dei Rossi -> Monte del Forno -> Forno Hütte
This traverse is a good alternative for the normal route. The difficulties are not much higher on this traverse, this route is only much longer. The route from the Forno Hütte to the Pizzo dei Rossi is quite tricky, you'll have to find the best route through the couloir that leads to the summitridge. The North-ridge of the Monte del Forno is quite exposed and consists of a lot of climbing passages (II), very beautifull! The descent follows the normal route of the Monte del Forno.
The whole climb takes a whole day. Difficulty grade: PD/WS+
The North-ridge of the Monte del Forno. |
Maps and GuidebookMaps:
1:25'000 Map: 1276 – Val Bregaglia / 1296 – Sciora
1:50'000 Maps: 268 – Julierpass / 278 – Monte Disgrazia
Guidebook
Bünder Alpen 4, in German, published by the Swiss Alpine Club. Last edited 1992.
External LinksForno Hütte
Telephone: 081 / 824 31 82
Internet: Forno Hütte
Weather
Internet: Meteoschweiz.ch Images
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