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| West Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 39.93092°N / 105.28727°W Activities: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall | Page By: jfox Created/Edited: Mar 17, 2008 / Jun 9, 2008 Object ID: 388887 Hits: 440 Loading... Page Score: 88.44% - 9 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
As one of the world's finest and most famous climbing areas, Eldorado Canyon needs little introduction. It consists of steep, beautiful sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of gold and red. Most all of the climbing routes are trad, with very little in the way of sport climbing present. Climbing in Eldorado Canyon can be odd and it requires some getting used to. As I mentioned before, it is primarily a traditional area, yet there is relatively little crack climbing.
The West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon State Park, is a huge, diagonal cliff band, much wider than it is tall, with a wide variety of climbing on SW-facing Fountain Formation sandstone. There are face climbs, dihedrals, slabs, overhangs, thin cracks, wide cracks, lots of moderate routes, from 1 to 4 pitches. It lies just west of the larger and more popular Redgarden Wall, and rises out from the South Boulder Creek to the gully just before Rincon which is Spanish for corner.
The ridge is 2400 feet wide by up to 350 feet tall with at least 180 routes. These routes range in length from 20 foot highballs to the 5-pitch Long John Wall (5.8+) and from 4th class to 5.12d at least; however routes lower than 5.7 & higher than 5.11 are not well represented here. So, higher end climbers need to look elsewhere for established testpieces unless you want to free one of the few remaining aid lines. Likely, it has the greatest potential for unclimbed routes remaining in Eldorado.
Although there are no really long routes here, this is a particularly great place to climb since the climbing is pretty well spread out. There are all sorts of difficulties in climbing routes close together, and it's simply a tranquil place. Another nice aspect of the west ridge is that you can easily find a comfortable spot to climb (temperature wise) by aspect of the face, shade, & altitude. Some of the climbs are well protected from the sun by close standing trees (see Dr. Michael Solar to Positivley 4th Street). If you can't find what you're looking for here, then you're a very hard person to please.
Old fixed gear is an Eldo staple, and can either add or subtract spice from your route depending on its quality and the availability of other pro. Of the few routes that I've done, on the Bastille and the West Ridge, I think I've encountered an old piton on almost every route, and I think a stuck cam on them all! Skill in placing pro is very important; cracks tend to be discontinuous and incipient, and nearly all the "sport" routes require some gear as well. While I've not climbed any of the "sport" routes yet, that's what I've been told.
Getting ThereSee the original page for Eldorado Canyon State Park. The West Ridge lies on the west end (obviously) of the park and can be accessed via a trail from the east side footbridge, or by hopping the creek at the base of the ridge.
Just get yourself a decent guidebook and follow the trail up the ridge to your selected route.
Red TapeAs of the year 2008, there is a $6 state park fee for entrance. ECSP also accepts and is part of the State Parks Pass. For ~$60 one can buy a Colorado State Parks pass and use it here in Eldo.
CampingNone. There is no camping allowed within Eldorado Canyon State Park.RoutesI've started here a route page and listing of a few of the many routes to be climbed on the west ridge. I've only done a few, but hope to do more in the coming year(s). Please let me know if you add routes, or have pictures/beta that I could include here.
Single Pitch Routes:
Dr. Michael Solar; 25 feet; 5.7 YDS: Short but steep crack with decent face holds. Climb up and then over to the right to use small tree for anchor.
Washington Irving; 130 feet; 5.6 YDS: Thin fingers to fist crack follows a right facing corner up and over buldges. Gear from #4 stopper to #4 Camalot. Two bolt anchor on top of right facing wall near top.
Mesca-Line: 80 feet; 5.7 YDS: Steep and sustained fingers to hand crack goes straight up. One pin about halfway up before crux move, big flake/roof. Two bolt anchor on a wide ledge below a small tree.
The Unsaid; 100 feet; 5.9 YDS: Climb steep slab to a thin finger crack below a small roof. Climb to where crack disappears, then move left onto face, then back over roof. Continue up and left to a vertical wall where you'll find another two bolt anchor.
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