Rising over a vertical mile from the surface of Bowman lake in the Northfork district of Glacier National Park, Rainbow Peak is a dramatic mountain featured in many a panoramic photo. Thousands of leisurely auto tourists make their way along the dusty Northfork road to one of its popular terminus' - Bowman Lake - from where Rainbow Peak rises 5500 some odd feet above the surface of the lake. As one stands on the lake shore they are presented with a view of Numa ridge to the Northwest and Quartz Ridge to the Southeast. Dominating the Southeast of this panorama is the formidable Rainbow Peak.

Getting There

Rainbow Peak as seen from the foot of Bowman Lake

A photo of Rainbow Peak may be easy to capture but a summit is not. No trails will lead a climber to its base and the 5,000+ vertical feet facing a summit bid ranges from gametrails to bushwhacking to vertical slogging over scree.

Climbers will have no difficulty getting to within six miles of the summit by car as a road from the National Park Boundary at Polebridge, MT winds its way to the foot of Bowman Lake. From here access to the base of the peak is via two methods.

Canoes, kayaks and low horsepower motorized watercraft are allowed on the waters of Bowman Lake. Climbers can follow the Southeast shoreline of of the lake to the semi-prominent point in the lake where an audibly noticeable creek empties. It is here that climbers can stash their boats and make their way by land.

The second obvious approach is via land and significantly more difficult than a water approach. A trail from the foot of the lake extends to the head of the lake where Bowman Lake backcountry campground is located. From here it is possible to bushwhack the approximately 1.5 miles to the same creek outlet described in the water approach.

Climbing Route Information

Approach via watercraft.

An approach by watercraft provides the best access for a summit bid on Rainbow Peak. Glacier National Park regulations allow non-motorized and low-horsepower watercraft to put into Bowman Lake at the foot Bowman Lake where there is a car campground and boat launch.

Once in the water make your way to the right (Southeast) and follow the shoreline until you reach a small bit of land that juts out where a stream empties into the lake. This piece of land is distinctly marked on topographic maps. To avoid confusing another stream with this one note where you are in relation to the peak itself for the stream you're looking for is located in a drainage sided by Rainbow.

Game trails are reportedly follow-able on both sides of the creek bed. Shared route beta from various parties tells of the existence of a prominent game trail on the climber's-right side of the creek whereas a fellow Summit Post member said, "...went up and down on the left side on some decent game trails," in route notes provided via a private message.

A suggested approach and climbing route to the summit.

As your party makes it's way up the creek a fork will be encountered. The author suggests continuing straight ahead as opposed to veering left. This will lead you out of the vegetation and to the foot of the peak's East-Southeast scree-covered face.

Climb the boulder-strewn creek bed and adjacent terrain eventually gaining the talus and scree-covered upper, treeless section of the peak. From here begin the vertical slog up the scree finding your way through class 3 and 4 terrain.

A member of Summit Post is quoted in reference to his parties route as follows, "...I seem to remember a distinct "X" type crack system midway up the SW face above some small snow patches that we climbed up to and followed bottom left to top right. This part of our route could be seen from the lake as we headed back to the foot of Bowman lake."

Aerial imagery showing both suggested approach and ascent.

Upon reaching the top of the scree slopes the summit is obvious. There may or may not be a summit register located amongst the loose rock but snow prevented the author from determining this one way or the other.

If conditions are right another summit can be bagged from Rainbow. Mount Carter is a short ridge walk to the North-Northeast. The relative remoteness of these mountains makes an enchainment worthwhile for those interested in collecting summits in the Northfork ecosystem.

Descent from the summit to the lake is completed by retracing the path taken on the ascent. Take care not to get into some of the steep and tall cliff bands - the location of which should be noted on your approach and ascent.

Red Tape

A ranger station exists at the Park boundary along the Northfork of the Flathead River at which climbers can sign the voluntary climber registry and pay any required entrance fees. More information can be found at Glacier's website.

Camping

Car camping is available at the Bowman Lake campground for those approaching by boat. If approaching by foot there is a backcountry campsite at the head of Bowman Lake.

Views from the Top

L.P. rejoices on the summit of Rainbow Peak

Sam standing stoically a mile above the surrounding valley floor atop Rainbow Peak

When To Climb, & Climbing Considerations

From late June/early July (during this time frame expect LOTS of snow in the high elevations) to early fall, depending on snow conditions. Traditional climbing season in the Northern Rockies is July, August, and September�with September weather becoming progressively colder and more unstable (sometimes dramatically so: PAY ATTENTION!) as the month progresses�but does of course vary from year to year. There are occasional winter climbs in the park, but not often, and then only by well-equipped, area-wise, extremely competent individuals. Basically, most of GNP is inaccessable through the winter, and avalanche danger, to put it mildly, is extreme almost everywhere.

CLIMBING CONSIDERATIONS

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed by both J. Gordon Edwards and the Glacier Mountaineering Society. Anyone doing more than just "trail" hiking in this part of the Rockies should read the excellent and important information put together by Fred and Moni Spicker. Much�if not most�of the rock in GNP is sedimentary and rotten, and you need to know about it: Glacier National Park Rock & Grading Systems.

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Images