Dwarfed by the world-reknowned Monte Fitzroy ~3 km to its west, Cerro Madsen is a fun class 3 trekking peak in its own right. It can be climbed in an 8-10 hour day from El Chalten, but most travelers will incorporate Cerro Madsen into a larger backpacking or climbing trip. The summit affords fantastic views of Laguna del los Tres and the incredible Fitzroy massif, as well as Cerro Electrico and the heavily seraced Piedras Blancas Glacier.

Approach

From El Chalten, the Mount Fitzroy trail climbs steadily for one hour to reach Laguna Capri. Another hour of easy walking brings you to the popular Campamento Poincenot. The 500m climb from Poincenot to Laguna de los Tres takes another hour on a steep trail. Laguna de los Tres is not only the most popular trek in the park, but also the standard approach for climbing Cerro Fitzroy via Paso Superior.

Route

From Laguna de los Tres (elevation 1200m), head due north around the lake and climb onto the obvious ridge. Bear left and continue to follow the gentle class 2 ridge. One hour from the lake, the ridge narrows and good routefinding skills are essential. The route continues to follow the ridge up to the north. At first, easier climbing can be found below the ridge on the east side. When the ridge gets really narrow and cliffy, cross over to the west side and work your way up towards an obvious couloir. Climb the right side of the couloir to reach a well-defined col. Turn left and scramble up the summit block. Some class 4 moves are required to reach the actual top.

Equipment

Ice axe and crampons may be necessary until late in the season.

Camping

Camp in designated campsites only. Free camping is available at the trailhead in El Chalten (Campamento Madsen). Free camping is available at Laguna Capri and Campamento Poincenot. Campamento Rio Blanco (5 minutes past Poincenot) is reserved for climbers. Camping is prohibited at Laguna de los Tres.

External Links

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