In eastern dolomites, just near the Passo del Falzarego, a valley, through the Passo di Valparola, gets to Val Badia.
The eastern border of the high section of this valley is the Lagazuoi-Fanis subgroup.
Here, while walking or driving toward la Capanna Alpina, on the right side (south), some mountains look like growing up from the meadows with their grey, yellow and red walls
Just South of the first one (Cima del Lago), and divided by a steep channel, the Cima Scotoni.

This summit is nothing but the West shoulder of the Cima Fanis di Mezzo but its SW wall is one of the most important goals of Dolomiti for rock climbers and the only reason to climb it.

Getting There

from south : Passo del Falzarego - Passo di Valparola - Armentarola
from north : Val Badia (San Cassiano) - Armentarola

from Armentarola a dirt road brings to a big parking near the Capanna Alpina (1730m) that is the normal starting point.
If you need a place to spend the night the best starting point could be the Rifugio Scotoni (1985m), where you can get with a fine walk of less than an hour.

Routes Overview

This summit can be easily (2° UIAA) climbed along the NW ridge, directly from the Forcella del Lago (the notch between Cima Scotoni and Cima del Lago) or (easier) crossing the summital ridge from Cima Fanis di Mezzo that are the routes normally used to come back after climbing the difficult routes of the SW wall.

So, starting from the NW ridge, anticlockwise, we have the following routes :

West wall - Barbier-Comploi - 550m - TD (5.10)

SW wall - Direttissima Ivano Dibona (Valleferro-Menardi-Dallago) - ~650m - ED (5.11)

SW wall - Direttissima Scoiattoli (Lacedelli-Lorenzi-Ghedina) - ~630m - ED (8-/5.11) - the most famous and climbed

SW wall - Hyperscotoni (Leviti-Mich) - 450m - (6c/5.12)

SW wall - Skotonata Galatika (Tassi-Calloni-Zanetti) - 400m - (7c+/5.14)

SW wall - via dei Fachiri (Cozzolino-Ghio) - 450m (the route ends on the higher ledge of the wall) - ED (6/5.11)

SW wall - Ist route (Costantini-Apollonio-Pompanin) - 600m - TD (5.8)

S wall - Pisoni-Leonardi - 550m - TD (5.9)

and, last but not less important, the

Gran Portale - Barbier-Bourgeois - ~300 (the difficult part) that gets the summital ridge between the Cima Scotoni and the Cima Fanis di Mezzo) - TD (5.9)

Camping

a good starting point can be (saving about 1 hour walk from the road) the Rifugio Scotoni, wherefrom, in less than half an hour you get the starting points of the routes

some pics ....

Scoiattoli route

"Fachiri" route

Skotonata Galatika

Images



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