| Becco di Valsoera Mountain/Rock |
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| Becco di Valsoera   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Torino, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 45.50683°N / 7.37921°E County: Piemonte Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing Season: Summer Elevation: 11053 ft / 3369 m | Page By: gabriele Created/Edited: Jul 27, 2008 / Oct 21, 2009 Object ID: 425156 Hits: 870 Loading... Page Score: 88.19% - 11 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewMost people, speaking about Gran Paradiso group, normally think about sweet mountains covered by more or less pacific glaciers: the typical kingdom of classic old fashion mixed alpinism on rock and ice.
Nothing more wrong ... if in the northern part (Val d'Aosta) this can be almost true, there is a range, in the SE part (the lower part of Valle dell'Orco) where one can find a real kingdom of hard rock climb, both classic and modern.
Until the early '50 this range was low frequented, then a climbing movement named "Nuovi mattini" (new mornings) made many very skilled climbers discover this range opening fantastic rock routes on the fantastic, coarse gneiss bulding the mountains.
Apart the bottom valley structures (Caporal and Sergent) the efforts of the climbers pointed out one of the "Italian Yosemite" (the other one is the Val di Mello in Valmasino): the Piantonetto valley.
Three summits here started capturing the attention :
the Torre del Gran San Pietro,
the Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione and
the Becco di Valsoera.
This last mountain, with its SW wall, more than 600m high, became very popular and, after the first classic route (Leonessa-Tron), became the ground where to discover and open some of the finest routes, now classic, and some very hard modern routes : only for the "elite"
Its routes can be compared with the most famous routes of Mont Blanc Group, the Perego (teamleader, first Italian on the N wall of Eiger and first climber of Denali along the Cassin route)-Mellano-Cavalieri on the W edge (1960) was considered very similar to the hard Dru's routes
Getting ThereFrom Milano-Aosta-Torino, along the highway of Mont Blanc till Ivrea exit.
Then follow for Ciriè and Pont Canavese.
Along the road for Ceresole Reale, once in Rosone, a narrow road on the right side (road marks Piantonetto-Rifugio Pontese) allows to arrive till the Teleccio Lake 1870 m, where, near the dam, you can park your car.
The nothoroughfare marks are only to inform that you can run the road on your own risks.
From the car parking, in less than 1 hour you can arrive to the Rifugio Pontese (2200m).
(30 years ago it was a very bad accomodation, now it is a very fine and comfortable site)
Red TapeFrom Teleccio dam you are in the National Gran Paradiso Park !
Routes overviewsome small info ...
the normal route, used only to come down, follows (from the real summit) the Eastern side (Valsoera) and, staying close (50m) to the SE ridge get a ledge that, after some vertical slabs gives access to a narrow channel that leads to a notch.
Down along the channel bordering the SW wall, keeping the right side, to get the wide grassy channel ending to the Piano delle Muande.
the classic route : Leonessa-Tron - 600m - D+ (5.7) on the central spur of the SW face, is the easiest one, almost neglected now.
the right spur : Cristiano-Fornelli - 500m - TD (5.10)
the W edge : Perego-Mellano-Cavalieri - 550m - TD+ (5.10/a1 or 5.11b)
the W crack : Biletta-Tondella-Valerio - 500m - TD+ (5.10)
the yellow dihedral : Bottaro-Gallina-Nebiolo - 450m - ED (5.11)
these are the "classic" old routes ...
many other very hard modern routes with difficulties up to 8a (5.13) have been opened near (to the right and to the left) of the Perego route
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Gran Paradiso GROUP
