| Red Cap (Turtlehead Junior) Mountain/Rock |
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| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Nevada, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 36.16616°N / 115.44263°W Activities: Scrambling Season: Spring, Fall, Winter Elevation: 4925 ft / 1501 m | Page By: Bob Sihler Created/Edited: Apr 17, 2009 / Apr 27, 2009 Object ID: 506739 Hits: 1109 Loading... Page Score: 91.21% - 49 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
 Route views/information...
Overview
Red Cap, also called Turtlehead Junior, perhaps for its proximity to Turtlehead Peak, is the highest peak in the Calico Hills, a small area of colorful sandstone peaks and outcrops in the eastern section of Nevada’s Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The mountain might be small, and the elevation may be nothing to elicit gasps, but this little peak packs a lot for the punch. First of all, its colors are striking. Second, it offers at least two fun and challenging routes to its summit. Third, it is situated in a position that yields spectacular views of the best of the Red Rocks area. Fourth, there is a (sometimes) water-filled tinaja (“tank”)-- a depression that collects rainwater-- just below the summit block, and it is both a geological marvel and a great feature for framing a nice photograph.
Note: the tinajas are crucial to the survival of desert species both aquatic and terrestrial (examples-- brine shrimp and desert bighorn sheep). Please do not wade, swim, or bathe in; drink from; or otherwise defile this or any other tinaja.
Red Cap is an unofficial name-- my source for it is the guidebook Rambles & Scrambles: The Definitive Guide to Peakbagging Around Las Vegas by SP member cp0915; this book is a wealth of information on peaks within a day's drive of the Las Vegas area and has an extensive collection of route descriptions for peaks in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area-- but one look at it will dispel any wondering about the name. Red Cap is a peak composed of yellow sandstone capped by a layer of dark red sandstone. There is no other peak like it in the Calico Hills-- some are all yellow, some are all red, and some are red with yellow caps, but only Red Cap is yellow with a red top-- and that makes it easy to locate.
Routes
I know of two routes up the peak, one of which I have done. A third seems possible based on my view of the peak from nearby Turtlehead Peak, but I will not cover it here since the route is pure speculation. However, you can see it and read my speculative comments on it by viewing this picture.
"White Gully"
This route was recommended to me by MoapaPk as an easier alternative to the guidebook route. It has less exposure than the guidebook route does, the route-finding is less complicated, and the climbing is easier overall, but there are two Class 4 spots (these are the exit from the gully to the summit area and a short crack that leads to the summit block; the gully itself is Class 3).
RT distance is about 2 miles, and elevation gain is about 650’ (4280’-4925’).
About 3 minutes along the Calico Tanks Trail from its junction with the Turtlehead Peak Trail (or about 5 minutes from the parking area), you will reach a spot where the trail bends sharply to the right as it meets a wide, gravelly wash. Leave the trail and follow this wash-- avoid going left when you intersect another fairly wide wash-- through and over some small dryfalls and narrow sections that would feel like slot canyons if the walls were a bit higher. This wash will take you into open terrain near the left end of the peak’s western face; from there, look for a use trail that runs parallel to the north face of Red Cap.
The “White Gully” is the first significant gully you will see; look for a cairn on a boulder about 15’ or so up the gully (a photo on this page shows the gully and the cairn).
Climb this Class 3 gully; turn around once in a while to check out the interesting views of Turtlehead Peak through the narrowing walls. At the top, where the rock to your left changes to red, look for a tree growing next to the wall to your left. You must climb this wall, which unfortunately is smooth and, although not high, just high enough to present a problem. When I climbed the route, there was a cairn serving as a “step” wedged between the tree and the wall, and this cairn was a great help, even if it made me feel a little dishonest for using it. Without the cairn, the pitch to get up to the red summit area would arguably be low Class 5. With it, the pitch is Class 3 or 4; go expecting Class 4 so there won’t be any shocks.
Once up, hike uphill, keeping to your right, until you reach the tinaja below the summit block. If the water is gone and the depression is not obvious, look for a conical red outcrop on the right near the cliff edges; the tinaja is directly to the left of this outcrop.
Move around the right side of the tinaja and notice a crack about 8’ high. Climb this Class 4 crack (easy, in my opinion, but that's highly subjective) and then walk to the summit.
"Guidebook Route"
This is the route described in the guidebook mentioned above. Since I have not climbed this route, I am relying on the book's description and additional information from the author himself, with permission. If you would like to climb this route, and I plan to the next time I am out here, I recommend that you get the guidebook; then you can read the actual text and interpret it as you will.
Near the base of the northwest face, find an area of red sandstone and work your way up it (Class 2-5-- it is possible to stay with Class 2, but it is much more likely that you will encounter much harder terrain); when you are below some cliffs, traverse right to the peak’s south side, almost its southeast side, and climb the second of two parallel chutes (Class 3; the first is a dry waterfall and does not look passable). You will reach a red outcrop that looks like the summit but is not; work your way east a short distance (around 20'past a bulge), drop 50’ or so down a chute on the north side of the peak, and take another chute up to a saddle between the summit and the outcrop that looked like the summit (reaching this chute requires Class 3-4 moves as you cross a rib between two chutes; you enter this second chute about 15' above its bottom). Work south (climbing the chute to a notch) and from the top of the chute, drop about 15’ and locate a weakness on the 10' wall to the right. Class 4-5 (low) moves will get you up it, and then you move in a clockwise direction around the summit block. Look for a short Class 4 crack on the northwestern side; it seems as though this crack is the same as the one mentioned in the route described above. Climb the crack and then walk to the summit.
Note-- the guidebook author warns that there is exposure along this route. Remember that perception of exposure and comfort with it vary widely among people, especially when they are not roped up. If you are in doubt after reading this or find yourself in doubt once you are on the route, consider the "White Gully" instead.
Also note-- following this route may sound somewhat complicated, but remember that this is a small mountain. Patience and a level head should pay off even if it means taking longer to climb a route this length and difficulty than it normally would. Many find that challenges make the experience better!
By Anya Jingle |
By Anya Jingle |
Some Summit Views
These are better when you click on them and then click on "Orig."
Getting There
From Charleston Boulevard (Route 159) west of I-215 and Summerlin, turn onto the Scenic Drive in RRCNCA. Just before Mile 3, you reach the signed Sandstone Quarry area (it is the third developed pullout along the road); turn off and park here.
Red Tape
There is a daily entrance fee of $5 per vehicle. Annual and interagency passes are available (the Interagency Pass, AKA the America the Beautiful Pass, grants access to all federal fee areas for a year).
Hours the Scenic Drive is open:
November 1 through February 28/29; 6 a.m. – 5 p.m.
March 1 through March 31; 7 a.m. – 7 p.m.
April 1 through September 30; 6 a.m. – 8 p.m.
October 1 through October 31; 6 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Note: these hours are subject to change; in April 2009, the hours were 6 A.M. until 7 P.M. To be safe and sure, contact the park before visiting.
Camping
There are no campgrounds off the Scenic Drive in RRCNCA. There is a campground outside it, though; see here for more details. Bivouacs and backcountry camping are permitted, but with permits and restrictions. Use the link at the end of this page to find out more. Camping is not necessary in order to climb Red Cap.
External Links
BLM site for RRCNCA
Again, a useful guidebook: Rambles & Scrambles: The Definitive Guide to Peakbagging Around Las Vegas.
Images
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Red Rocks
