FONTAINEBLEAU

The Prestat Rock is one of the big blocks at the Bas-Cuvier site.
The Bas-Cuvier bouldering site is the ultimate reference in the Fontainebleau Forest. This is where bouldering started, in the beginning of the 20th century, and the toughest grades and situations are still being sought for.
As a start, the routes and circuits (Cuvier Rempart) had been cultivated by Parisian climbers looking for training opportunities for their further alpine conquests.
As bouldering became an activity in itself, the Bas Cuvier site attracted climbers (and it still does) from all around the globe.

The Rocher de la Prestat routes give a good idea of what has been going on through the ages:
-The original "Prestat" crack (3+) was first climbed in 1914 (it used to be a 4, but an early dry tooler declassed it by breaking a scale). The Prestat is the last problem of the orange AD- circuit, a classic of its grade in the Forest.
-"la Paillon directe" (4+, the last problem of the blue TD- circuit, another must) and the "Nationale" (5-) are products of the 1930's.
-"Le quartier d'orange" (5), probably the easiest problem of the red TD+ circuit, dates from the "dark" times of hand hold chipping (allthough it was very nicely sculpted, 1942).
-"La Stalingrad" (6b), done in 1950, is the slab to the left of the Prestat crack (a bold milestone).
-"la Super Prestat (7b+, the last problem of the famous white ED+ circuit) and "l' Ange gardien" (7c) are "two slab desperates" of the 80's.

There are of course other routes on this rock, and let us mention the start of the blue D- circuit, on the block just opposite from the Prestat crack.
The south descent route is the easiest but polished summit access. An other way down is an airy due E unmantle to the neighbouring block (possible jump).

Litterature:
-"Blocks en Stock -le Cuvier" (write to: Association "Escalade pour tous"; 421, rue du Bas-Moulin, 77190 Dammarie-les-Lys)
-"Bleau, Fontainebleau Bouldering" by Stepen Gough (On the edge Guidebook, Greenshires Publishing Ltd, July '97) is a reference book in English for the entire Forest.
-Other Topos are mentioned on the SP Fontainebleau Area page.

Let us add that the landings at Bas-Cuvier are very favourable, and that the perfectly compact sandstone is exceptionally fast to dry.
Summetime is the least favored season for really serious climbing at Cuvier.

GETTING THERE
The Carrefour de l'Epine parking lot is right at the Bas-Cuvier boulder site. The chaos of rocks is difficult to describe, but one should't need more than 5 to 10 min to find the Rocher de la Prestat (E of the parking lot, ask anyone on the spot).
By car:
By clicking the coordinates in the primary info (above) and then enlarging or diminishing, one easily finds the roads leading to the Carrefour de L'Epine parking lot, which is along the RN 7 (D607), NW of Fontainebleau (less than 40 miles out of Paris).
By train:
Local trains (Ter) stop at the Bois le Roi station, leaving Paris (Gare de Lyon station) every hour starting at 6.30 AM (35 min. ride) - similar schedules for the return trip; bicycles are admissable in the train (additional costs) -
Using a map will help us get to Cuvier by foot (1 hour walk on forest dirt roads, SW of Bois le Roi, via the Rocher Canon site).
Map:
1:25000 IGN (Institut Geographique National) map Nr.2417 OT (Foret de Fontainebleau)

RED TAPE
Use of chalk is not well accepted (by the rock and by locals, except in very specific situations); resin (pof) is used here.
Wild camping is not allowed in the Fontainebleau forest.
Fires are not allowed.
Cars are allowed along the asfalted roads (dirt roads are blocked with posts and signs). Bicycles are permitted along the dirt roads.

CAMPING & ACCOMODATIONS
Nearby camping info
Cheap hotel (motel)
If planning a longer stay, it might be a good idea to base oneself in Fontainebleau and drop in to Paris now and then (f.i. by train and bike) - instead of the opposite.

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