Phoca Rock (also known as Lone Rock or Sentinel Rock) is a basalt crag rising up out of the middle of the Columbia River some six hundred yards off Cape Horn on the Washington shore. Despite it's proximity to Washington, however, the rock is technically in the state of Oregon. Phoca is only reachable by boat with the one and only landing place being beneath the crag's north face: a small rocky cove where there's only enough room for a couple of kayaks to land. While not a major destination by any means, it's an unusual and rarely visited crag of the Columbia Gorge. The summit offers a unique perspective on the Gorge.

Phoca appears to be composed largely of typical crumbling Cascade-style choss -- although the crag is riddled with a myriad of tiny caves and several miniature rock arches giving it an appearance very different from that of rock formations elsewhere in the Gorge. An old map of the Columbia Gorge located at the Vista House refers to Phoca as "Lone Rock" with a listing that it is 100ft high and some 30ft in diameter. This is likely inaccurate, however.

"Gorge Classic Climbs" by Tim Olson notes that Carl Neuberger explored Phoca Rock in 1958 although noted signs of previous visitors. The famous early photographer C. E. Watkins took one of his classic historic photographs of nearby Cape Horn and Cigar Rock from close this location in 1867.

Getting There

The nearest boat ramps are at Dalton Point (~1mi east of Phoca on the Oregon side) and Rooster Rock State Park (~4mi west also on the Oregon side).

Dalton Point
The boat ramp at Dalton Point is only accessible from I-84 west-bound. From Portland, drive east to Multnomah Falls. Turn around and head back west on I-84 for 1.7mi to exit 29 (signed for Dalton Point).

Rooster Rock State Park
Take I-84 east to exit 25 (Rooster Rock). Once inside the park, turn left and follow the road all the way to its very end to find the boat ramp. There is a $3 day-use fee. Note that the put-in will require you to follow a short channel westward for about a quarter-mile before opening onto the Columbia River. This channel passes below (and gives a unique perspective) on another Oregon crag: Rooster Rock.

Corbett Station
There is also an abandoned and somewhat overgrown boat ramp several miles west of Rooster Rock State Park (exit 22). The gate atop the old ramp is usually closed requiring boats to be portaged about a quarter mile to the water.

Approach Hazards

It's probably best to visit Phoca only on a calm day as the Cape Horn area is rather renowned throughout the Columbia Gorge for high winds. Check the forecast and have a backup plan just in case conditions are bad. Reportedly strong current can also be an issue around the rock. There is one navigation hazard to be aware of: a low-lying rock formation just at or slightly beneath the surface of the river extending north about a hundred feet from the east end of the cove beneath Phoca's north face. Guidebooks recommend giving it a wide berth on the approach.

It is recommended to check the tides and have some familiarity with them in the area. Despite the distance from the Pacific, this area of the Columbia is still subject to quite noticeable tidal change. The river's water level can also drastically change between seasons. The river is likely at its lowest in late August and September. We encountered a number of quite large sandbars and mud flats barely above the water just southwest of Phoca in August 2009. The river likely changes year to year.

Be aware as well that the Gorge shipping channel passes extremely close to Phoca Rock. Small vessels such as kayaks do not show up on radar -- and it may be very hard for barge operators to see you out on the water. Keep an constant eye out at all times when moving about on the river.

Do be sure to secure your boat if you're planning to spend any length of time on Phoca. It's always good to have your boat be there when you come back to it.

Climbing

On landing, scramble eastwards - traversing around the east side of Phoca. Continue going eastwards maintaining about the same elevation as far as you can to locate a faint scramble route heading upwards on the south face. Scramble upwards using dirty holds, rocks with a semblance of stability and vegetation to the summit. Route is primarily class 3 with a couple class 4 moves. Downclimbing is slightly less fun. Test your holds. The water around Phoca appears fairly deep, although leaping off the side might not be recommended.

Oddly a bamboo pole was affixed to the summit with concrete in August 2009. The pole may have had a flag attached to it at some point.

"The Climber's Guide to Oregon" by Nicholas Dodge published in 1968 describes a second route to the summit via the north face, climbing "two or three near perpendicular rock and dirt faces and dirt terraces to the summit." Looking up at the north face from the landing site did not bring the word "stable" to mind.

Gear:
Kayakers should be prepared for immersion in the event of a capsize and should know how to do a water exit. The water temperature can be extremely cold and hypothermia can be an issue any time of the year on the Columbia. No special gear is required for the climb itself -- although having a pair of boots or shoes with decent tread may make the ascent more enjoyable.

Red Tape

Use of the boat ramp at Rooster Rock State Park requires a $3 day-use fee. Boat ramps at Dalton Point and the abandoned ramp at Corbett Station are free.

Camping

There are a number of campgrounds nearby in the Gorge - although camping is not permitted at Dalton Point or at Rooster Rock State Park. Camping is probably not feasible on top of Phoca.

External Links

NOAA - Columbia Gorge Weather

Rooster Rock State Park

Images