Eagle Wall is home to three classic Red Rocks routes, Eagle Dance, Levitation and Rainbow Buttress. Its position on the upper south face of Rainbow Mountain makes it one of the more remote climbing walls at Red Rocks. In fact the descent for any route that tops out involves the very origin of Oak Creek Canyon to the west. That being said, its southern exposure and quality rock make it a popular destination in the fall and spring (by popular, I mean you might see one other team on the wall). The snow, shorter days and water (or ice) filled canyon make it much less desirable in the winter.

The Urioste’s developed Eagle Dance and Levitation during the 1980’s along with most of the other routes on Eagle Wall, while Herbst started the climbing in this area with Rainbow Buttress in 1975.

Access is via the Oak Creek Canyon Trail head which is the last parking turn off on the right from the Red Rocks loop road. You will actually drive down a gravel road for quite a distance to reach the trailhead. There is a restroom at this location. Many routes are reached from this trailhead, so no worries about various vehicles in the parking lot, more than likely no one is after this route. Follow the trail into the canyon and turn right to stay out of the canyon floor and follow the trail staying low and below any turn off up the hill on your right to the Solar Slab routes. Continue, aiming for the narrow section of the canyon, then drop into the canyon floor and boulder hop up canyon for approximately 1.5 to 2 hours total to reach two very large Ponderosa pine trees. I advise suiting up just above the tree on the right (good place to leave your backpacks). Getting to that tree can be a bit of a bush whack.

From the tree, hike up the slick rock to a horizontal foot ledge that runs right. Take this over to easier ground and continue up angling right from time to time. Stay well below Eagle Wall because it will cliff you out a bit if you traverse right below it. Keep angling for the right side buttress/arête of Eagle Wall. All the routes with the exception of Dances with Beagles are over on this far right side. If you reach the wall too early in your ascent, you will have to down climb a bit to get over there. Elevation from the parking area to the trees is just over 1000’. From the trees to the base of the route is just under 1000’. And the climb itself is approximately 1000’ for a total 3000’+/- gain.

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall

Dances with Beagles- 430’- 5.11d/

Eagle Dance- 1060’- 5.10c, A0/

Levitation- 1060’- 5.11c, A0/

Mountain Beast- 1000’- 5.10d/

Ringtail- 460’- 5.10d/

Rainbow Buttress- 1000’- 5.8+/
There is no fixed pro on the entire route unless you opt for the Mountain Beast exit versus the original last pitch, which I do recommend due to the quality of sandstone at this juncture. The second, third and sixth pitches of Rainbow Buttress involve fantastic 5.8 climbing on good varnish. The sixth pitch is the money pitch, involving a long and sustained corner challenging you a bit on planning your pro if you only brought a single rack which is all you need for the rest of the route. At the one thin spot you will find mentioned via other beta, a slider nut fits the bill. The second pitch was short, but fun, and the third pitch involved a bit of off width. The rest of the pitches are relatively unremarkable. Dow

Kaleidoscope- 1000’- 5.8/

Strawberry Sweat- 640’- 5.9/

Essential Gear

These are all trad lines and will require an assortment of gear as spelled out in Jerry’s Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide. The routes leading to the top of the wall allow for a walk off descent. If you chose this option it makes sense to leave your packs down at the Ponderosa trees where you will circumvent back around to them. The routes are south facing and thus would not make good summer objectives at Red Rocks. The wall can be quite exposed to high winds as well which needs to be considered if rappelling is your main descent option.

External Links

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM

Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association

DowClimbing.Com

Red Rocks