 Enlarge! Oblica has a red dot, just above the village.
The Oblica N face is well visible from Log pod Mangartom, f.i. from the renewed bridge at the upper entry to the village.
In winter, mainly due to the publication of G. Kresal's excellent guide Zimski Vzponi, the gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup (Grapa med Oblico in Vrhom Rup) is now often climbed, as well as Zeleni Slapovi, a WI classic which is in that ravine ("the longest WI in Slovenia").
Log (the village of Log pod Mangartom) gave it's name to the Log wall.
Just above the village of Log, the Oblica N face is part of the Wall's southern end.
The Log Wall (Loska stena) is the Koritnica valley upper left bank, "the longest wall in the Julian Alps".
The (Loška) Koritnica takes its source below Jalovec, and flows into the Soca river close to the town of Bovec.
Quite generally: the upper Koritnica valley is made of Mangart on its right bank (left when looking upstream), Jalovec at its end, and the Log Wall on its left bank.
GETTING THERE: the road that goes through Log pod Mangartom is the one that links Bovec (Slovenia) to Tarvisio (Italy). -Click the primary info coordinates-Oblica  Vrh Rup, the Gully, Oblica (central), Vrh Krnice.Planinica is the upper green bump to the right
2238m was the generally accepted altitude of OBLICA, but 2246m seems to be the new number.
In the summer, in order to get to the base of Oblica's rock wall, we may follow the gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup along the Tuma route (on Vrh Rup's slopes) for the three routes in the left part.
Or we first need to rejoin Planinica.
Planinica is Oblica's "front range" summit (including a hunter's hut) which one may get to along a path (to be found on maps) that leads over its W ridge, starting south of Log, opposite to the entry to the Možnica valley.
The flat summit of Planinica (1534m) is at the upper forest line, just below the Oblica N wall. It also offers rewarding views of the Možnica valley summits: Rombon, Crnelske Spice, Jerebica...
WINTER:
-The Gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup
IV/3, 1000m, 4-6h
75/65, 40, UIAA 4
Milan Nikolic, Ivan Rejc (Mar 16 and 17, 1986)
WET ICE
(in the lower part of Oblica, below Planinica, on the left bank of the Gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup):
-Zeleni slapovi
III/4-5, 400m (600m complete), 5-8h
WI 90/75, 30-60
Pavel and Peter Podgornik (Feb 14, 1981)
-Zelencek
III/5, 50m
WI 90/80
Marko Car, Peter Mežnar (Mar 3, 1996)
-Zelenci
III/5, 200m
WI 90/80
Marko Car, Darko Podgornik (Feb 9,1997)
-Polozi me nezno
III/6, 70m, 1h
WI 90/85
Anze Marence, Matej Mejovšek (Feb 26, 2003)
-Polica slapov
III/3, 200m, 1-2h
WI 65/50, 40, UIAA 3+
Zvone Peterlin (Feb 15, 1985)
SUMMER lines:
-Porazna
Tadej Golob, ...
-Skrita Žalost
V,A1 /IV, 300m (2-3h)
Rado Fabjan and Igor Skamperle (Jun 25, 1984)
-Mojca
V+, 400m, 8h
Tadej Golob, Miha Valic (in 2001)
-Borutova
V+ /III-IV, 350m
Matej Flis, Tadej Golob, Borut Kantušer (Jul 20, 2003)
(rap line)
-Uvertura (var.)
V+ /III-IV, 350m
Peter Bajec, Tadej Golob, Borut Kantušer (Jun 10, 2007)
-Cernuta's Way
Cernuta
Probably the FA of the wall
-Radovednež
V+ /I-III, 300m, 3h
Tadej Golob, Iztok Ipavec (Oct 6, 2001)
External Links and SourcesA now unfindable Možnica and Koritnica climbing guide by Igor Skamperle & Edo Kozorog (1985)
Winter climbs in Slovenia (including WI)
AO Zeleznicar site
Log pod Mangartom info (in english)
Alpi Giulie Occidentali (1:25000 map)
Jalovec and Mangart (1:25000 map)
Triglav National Park Red Tape (in english) Images
|
