Hyalite Canyon is home to the largest concentration of natural routes in the lower 48, behind artificial ice locations such as Ouray, CO. The bulk of the ice here was pioneered in the early 70's, being some of the earliest ice to be climbed in North America. Hyalite Canyon was the playground of Alex Lowe as well.

For up-to-date information on conditions in Hyalite Canyon as well as other climbing areas around Montana, see the MontanaIce website forums.

Getting There

To get to Hyalite Canyon, take 19th south out of Bozeman for about 6 miles to the Hyalite Canyon turnoff (there is a big brown sign on the left side of the road). Follow this road for 17 miles. Here you'll cross the dam of Hyalite reservoir. Continue another 2 miles to the fork in the road. The right fork is the main canyon, with the left fork leading to the Palisade Falls / Flanders / Emerald Lake trailheads. The bulk of the climbs are located in the main fork, but classics are found in the Palisade Falls area and the Flanders drainage.

Climbing Areas

Because there are so many climbs in the area, it is easiest to group them into sections.

Genesis Area

Genesis Area

The Genesis Area is the most popular of climbing destinations in Hyalite Canyon. It lies on the west side of Sleeping Giant Mountain, the first mountain dividing the main fork of Hyalite Canyon with the Flanders Drainage. Most routes are topropable, and are good destinations for beginning and expert climbers alike

Genesis I - 60' WI4-5 I
Genesis II - 150' WI4 II
Willow Gully - 60' WI3 I
Clump Tree Gully - 60' WI2 I
Ice 101 - 60' WI2 I
Lower Green Sleeves - 90' WI3 I
Upper Green Sleeves - 200' WI3 II
Hang Over - 150' WI3 II
The Golden Mean - 70' WI4 II
Sleeping Giant Falls - 60' WI4 II
Through Four More - 80' WI4- II R
Zack Attack - 520' WI5 5.8 IV
The Soprano - 165' WI2 II

Twin Falls Area

Twin Falls Area

Twin Falls - 250' WI3 III
Cleopatra's Needle - 250' WI5 III
Airborne Ranger - 275' WI6 III
21 Stitches - 350' WI6 A1 5.8 III
The Matriarch - 220' WI7 5.10+ III R
Marc Antony's Wicked Tool - WI6 III
The Shimmy - 300' WI6 III

Amphitheatre

Fat Chance - 100' WI3+ I
White Zombie - 60' M5 I
Thin Chance - 60' WI4 I
Sun Vow - 60' M6 I
Desert Dance - 60' M6 I
Snoogles Left - 100' M4 I
Snoogles Right - 100' M6 I
Switchback Falls - 100' WI3 I
Mummy Cooler I - 60' WI2+ I

Mummy Area

Mummy Cooler II - 150' WI4- II
Frigid Aire Left - 60' WI4 II
Frigid Aire Right - 70' WI3 II
The Scepter - 90' WI5 II
The Wand - 50' WI4 II
Crypt Orchid - 180' WI2+ II
The Matrix - 150' WI4 M5 II
Cave and Gully - 150' WI4 5.5 II
Feeding the Cat - 100' WI3+ II
Mummy III - 120' WI4- III
Mummy IV - 250' WI5+ IV

Winter Dance Area

Dielectric Breakdown - 130' WI5+ II
The Slot Corner - 230' WI4 III
Land of the Lost - 200' WI4 III
Curtains - 80' WI4 III
Over Easy - 140' WI3 III
Winter Dance - 450' WI6+ M8 IV

Guide Books

Though I can put information up here on SummitPost, there are two local guidebooks that provide an overwhelming amount of beta for these climbs and many, many more in the surrounding areas.

Big Sky Ice - by Ron Brunckhorst - This guidebook details 600+ routes all over the state of Montana and northern Wyoming, from short roadside topropes to harsh grade V climbs.

Winter Dance - by Joe Josephson - This guidebook contains routes only in south-west Montana and northern Wyoming, but provides excellent photos and history of many of the climbs.

A big plus for the Big Sky Ice book is that it lists more climbs, some which have only seen a single ascent, and the grade of each climb, which can be very valuable information in planning an outing. However, Winter Dance has a large colour photo for over half of the climbs listed in the guidebook. For the best of both worlds, think about getting both books as they are very valuable together for a complete guide to the ice in this area.

Another neat tool, if you are computer savvy, is a downloadable Google Earth file showing the location of nearly every route in the canyon. It can be downladed here from the First Ascent Press website.

Guide Services

There are two main guide services in the area

Montana Alpine Guides (MAG) - The local guide service for rock and ice climbing as well as many other outdoor activities
NOTE: The MAG website is currently down, this link is a Montana Information site with info on MAG's services

Reach Your Peak - The guide service of Ron Brunckhorst, the author of Big Sky Ice.

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

This page is under construction and will be expanded shortly.