Schaufelspitze

Overview

Schaufelspitze and northwest ridge viewed from Eng valley

Schaufelspitze - shovel peak - indeed has the shape of a shovel when viewed from Eng valley. Standing high above Eng valley (west) and Falzthurn valley (east) between Sonnjoch in the south and Bettlerkarspitze in the north, Schaufelspitze is one of the loneliest peaks of Karwendel. To the east and south there are nothing but steep to perpendicular rockfaces, to the north there is a deep and unfriendly looking cirque and on the west side, heavily overgrown with dwarf pines, there is no trail.

So who visits Schaufelspitze ?

Climbers do it sometimes, there are some interesting climbing routes in the southern rockfaces, starting from Bärlahner valley.

Huntsmen, maybe.

And those madmen like me, who love these lonely and remote Karwendel peaks.

Lacking absolutely a decent trail, Schaufelspitze shows you how it must have been in these pioneer times when Karwendel was explored by Herrmann von Barth in the 19th century. There were huntsmen tracks, cow tracks and chamois tracks. Dwarf pines as a lovely obstacle to gain height. Steep meadows, dense wood and unpolished rock. No water, floods of sweat and more swearing words. A light breeze at the summit, no people, crows doing a spectacular airshow, remote chamois and about 200 people lining up at neighbouring Sonnjoch summit.

This is Schaufelspitze. Like that ? Try that summit then.

Getting There

Schaufelspitze as seen from Bettlerkarspitze

Main northern trailhead is Hagelhütten near the end of Eng valley.

You reach Eng valley by car

You can reach Eng valley from Munich by rail and bus, too. Check this possibility here.

Main southern trailhead for climbers is Gramaistal near Pertisau / Achensee.

Route Overview

There are two normal routes to Schaufelspitze, both of them are off-trail and unmarked mountaineer routes:

1. Northwest ridge: UIAA grade I, starting from Haglhütten, mostly off-trail route, some bushwacking, more bushwacking if you miss the cairns for the dwarf pine zone traverse

1. Traverse Schaufelspitze - Bettlerkarspitze: grade II, long, you have to climb Bettlerkarspitze (UIAA grad III - one part) first

1. Western rockface : grade IV, from Bärlahnersattel, difficult to find

Northwest ridge scramble

Upper northwest ridge

Northwest ridge view to Gamsjoch

The southwest rockface of Schaufelspitze is a gem for good climbers. Some routes:

1. Sitz des Zeus: VIII+ / IX-

1. Götterfunken: VIII

For more detailed information please refer to:

Bernd Eberle, Peter Mair, Mike Rutter, und Ralf Sussmann
Kletterführer Karwendel: Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten incl. Martinswand
Panico Alpinverlag
1. june 2004

Red Tape & Accommodation

Schaufelspitze and (left) bold Sonnjoch

Red Tape

Schaufelspitze is part of the “Alpenpark Karwendel”, an important and strictly protected national park.

There is no entrance fee for the park but many regulations to follow.

There is a National Park Information Center at Hinterriß. Information panels, starting at the parking area of Engalmen, show some interesting features of the Alpenpark Karwendel.

Accommodation

Camping is not allowed within Alpenpark Karwendel.

Motorhomes and caravans are no longer allowed at the parking area of Engalmen. There will be heavy fines!

Food and lodging can be found at

Maurach and Pertisau offer campgrounds, too.

Mountain hut

Gear & Mountain Condition

Schaufelspitze and upper northwest ridge

Schaufelspitze is a summer and autumn hike. The normal route from Hagelhütten is an off-trail scramble, the traverse from or to Bettlerkarspitze require climbing abilities up to grade II / III.

Be aware that the rock around the summit is bad and loose (with the exception of the south / southwest rockfaces with the climbing routes) and that belaying on the northwest ridge or on the connecting ridge to Bettlerkarspitze is not possible everywhere.

For the climbing ascents from Bärlahnersattel or Bärlahnertal you need full climbing gear.

Current Weather:

Maps & Guide Books

Schaufelspitze and Sonnjoch in deep winter

Guide Books

Heinrich Klier, Fritz März, und Walter Klier
Karwendelgebirge. Alpenvereinsführer alpin: Ein Führer für Täler, Hütten und Berge.
Bergverlag Rother
2005

Bernd Eberle, Peter Mair, Mike Rutter, und Ralf Sussmann
Kletterführer Karwendel: Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten incl. Martinswand
Panico Alpinverlag
1. june 2004

Maps

Alpenvereinskarte
Karwendelgebirge, Mitte
Scale 1 : 25.000
Deutscher Alpenverein
February 2008

Alpenvereinskarte
Karwendelgebirge, Ost
Scale 1 : 25.000
Deutscher Alpenverein
December 2005