Urus Este

Overview

Urus is an acclimatization mountain to prepare for the higher peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. It's normally considered a trekking peak more than a climbing one, but weather conditions can make this 'easy' summit far from a sure bet. Crevasses are not a concern as the mountain only has a small snowcap. The normal route goes bordering the small glacier for a slope of snow not complicated.

The interest in this peak is for its location with great views and the height over the 5000 meters (5420 meters is a very good reward). The Quebrada Ishinca is one of the closer to Huaraz and from its base camp you can climb two 5000 meters peak (Ishinca and Urus) and two 6000 meters peaks (Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca) so you keep travel a minimum. It's the perfect acclimatization trip. If your time in Peru is short or you have little high altitude experience the climbs in this valley should be considered. Generally, after the first trekking the most popular peaks of Cordillera Blanca to overcome the 5000 meters are: Urus Este, Ishinca and Pisco Oeste.

I adopted this page in august 2004, thanks to the former mainteneers "theboss", "thomas schneidl" and "haliku" for their contribution

The group of Urus

Really the Urus is a little massif with three different peaks and summits:

-Urus Este (5420m)
-Urus Central (5495m)
-Urus Oeste (5450m)

The mountaineers generally climb only the Urus Este, most direct and short from Quebrada Ishinca and many people don't know really the peak that they've climbed (the signal near the refuge of Ishinca say only "Urus, 5495m").

The route to the other peaks is possible from the same route to Urus Este, leaving the route before the zone of glacier on that we will border on its low part (left side of the route) and reaching the col between the peaks.

Getting There

From Lima you must take a bus to Huaraz (approx. 8 hours). In Huaraz take the bus to the village of Paltay (before Taricá) and from there: find a ride up the dirt road to Collon where the trail begins (it's possible to continue a few kilometers to Pashpa). You can also arrange with a small truck owner in Huaraz to bring you straight to Collon. This is probably the safest bet.

Finding someone to drive you there is quite easy from the Guide house (Casa de Guías) or directly from the street. The prices vary accordingly to your ability to negotiate. Expect to pay anything between 20 and 60 US dollars depending on the number of persons you share the truck with. In Collon, you will find arrieros (muleteers) with burros (donkeys) or horses to help you for the long but beautiful walk to base camp (5-6 h, 15 km).

Another good possibility is the contact with a company of guides to contract the trek and climb with transport, food, tents to camp,... including mountain guide, cook, muleteers, donkeys,...The dose of adventure is minor but the comforts are much better and for very reasonable prices for western citizens. Some of the companies of Huaraz (orientative):

-Peruvian Andes Adventures
-Sierra Nevada Tours
-Exploring Perú
-Aritza Monasterio
-Cordillera Blanca Adventures

...and more. In the streets of Huaraz (especially in Av.Luzuriaga) you can find a lot of companies but not all are goods. It's better to search the months previous in the guides, books or the internet the best companies (but the best information is for the mountaineers if you know somebody that they've climbed). If you contact previously, and pay a signal, generally the price is lower. It's important the titulation UIAGM of the guides.

In the Casa de Guías you can find a good information and to contract a guide as well (generally 60$/day in 2004).

Red Tape

*There is a small office in Collon that will collect access fee to the park. Not office in Pashpa, you can pay in the office of access of Q.Ishinca (or the previous day in Huaraz).

Fee: 20$ to trekkers and climbers (tourist: 2$). Time unlimited to climb.

*Rules of National Park of Huascaran, it is prohibited:
-to extract plants or animals from the park.
-to hunt or to take weapons.
-to do fire with wood.
-to fishing from May to September.
-to destroy burrows or refuges of animals.
-to harass or attack the wild animals.
-to encamp out of the designated places.
-to take toxic substances.
Please, you must respect the rules (though nobody controls his fulfillment)

When To Climb

Climbing Season: (May) - June - July - August - (September)

June into September is the dry season in Peru.

Camping

Camping is possible and free at Ishinca Basecamp. There is also a brand new hut with bunk beds, hot meals, toilets and a dining room with a fireplace. Of course, this is not free but the prices are very reasonable considering the amount of work needed to get all the goods there.

Guide-Book

-"Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru" (English) by David M. Sharman 1995 ISBN: 0952358204
-"Escaladas en los Andes: guía de la Cordillera Blanca" (Spanish) by J.J. Tomé. Ed.Desnivel 1999 ISBN: 8489969434

Maps

-New!!!: The map of Alpenverienskarte 0/3b edited in 2005, where Urus appears.

-Map IGN Perú of 1997 (2ªed, 2001): IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional) of Perú, Huari, series J631, Sheet 1452 (19-i). 1:100.000. This map is good but it doesn't have the names of the main mountains. The lines of level are O.K. The Urus Este is called Nev. Yanaraju with 5423m. The Urus Central don't appear with name and height and the Urus Oeste is signaled with the erroneous 5422m (real 5450m). This map has coordinates for GPS.

External Links

• Urus Este - Normal Route - Snow - July 2004 (if the link don't work try with climbingwithbob)
  
  
• AndesHandbook
  Great page from Chile about the mountains of Andes including the peak of Urus Este with route (Spanish/English)
• Map of C.Blanca
  Orientative map of the zone (the Urus is the red peak over the ref. Ishinca).
• Mato Grosso-Refuges
  The refuges of Cordillera Blanca of the Italian fathers (including the Ref.Ishinca)
• Altidude.net
  some pictures and information about Urus
• Mountaineering in the Andes
  by Jill Neate Peru. RGS-IBG Expedition Advisory Centre, 2nd edition, May 1994. Peak list of Cordillera Blanca and a lot of information.
• Trip danielarndt a trip of Urus and Ishinca.