OverviewThis is the most important summit of the ridge that, starting from Cima Tosa, goes toward south ... i.e. the pillar of the south branch of Brenta group
... and one of the main summits of the whole Brenta Group (but not many people know it)
the triptych: from left , Crozzon di Brenta, Cima Tosa, Cima d'Ambiez
Due to the long approach (4h30 from the road) the Val d'Ambiez is less frequented (by climbers) than the central areas of the Group, referring to Rif. Brentei, Pedrotti or Tuckett. (see Dolomiti di Brenta page)
Usually hikers pass along the high part crossing from Rifugio XII Apostoli to Rifugio Pedrotti along the (very fine) sentiero dell'Ideale giving low importance to the rocky walls that sorround the Rifugio Agostini. (cime di Pratofiorito, Cima d'Agola, Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, Cima d'Ambiez, Punta dell'Ideale and the Castei) and forgetting that this is the starting point of one of the finest classic and not difficult climbs to Cima Tosa.
Cima d'Ambiez is a very smart rocky mountain just to the south of Cima Tosa, divided from it by the deep pass of Bocca d'Ambiez (2871m) and is the main summit of the valley.
On its south-east side it has a wonderful red and grey vertical uniform wall, one of the finest of the whole Brenta group.
Getting ThereAccess to the mountain is normally made starting from
Rif. Agostini in val d'Ambiez
Here you can arrive driving :
- from Milano following the road to Madonna di Campiglio till TIONE DI TRENTO.
Here you must follow marks toward Trento, when in Stenico you must leave the main road and follow marks to Molveno and,
once in San Lorenzo in Banale a narrow white road leads you to Rifugio Cacciatori and on till the Rifugio Agostini (2410m) 4 hours
(taxi service available)
- from Trento or Bolzano follow autoroute A22 del Brennero till SAN MICHELE ALL'ADIGE,
exit the autoroute and follow the Ss43/ Strada Statale Della Val Di Non till Spormaggiore
turn toward Molveno, cross it and along the left side of the wonderful lake, get the road that leads to San Lorenzo in Banale
- from Trento you can also drive (along the SS45 - Garda), passing Vezzano and following to Ponte di Sarche where, on the right, you gain the road leading to Stenico and San Lorenzo in Banale
or
Rifugio XII Apostoli
Here you can arrive driving :
- from Milano following the road to Madonna di Campiglio till S.Antonio di Mavignola and, along the road of Val d'Agola till Malga Val d'Agola (1592m)
then on foot (good path) in 3 hours.
Routes overviewAll kind of climbs on this mountain !
2 easy routes on the West slopes (it's difficult to call it "wall") and on the West ridge - both start from Bocca dei Camosci
difficulties are scrambling with some short passages of 2°
- best starting point is Rifugio XII Apostoli (Garbari)
2 very fine and not difficult (2°) routes on fine rock sorrounded by a wonderful views:
South ridge (best starting point is Rifugio Agostini) useful to come down after climbing routes of SE wall
North ridge (coming from Bocca d'Ambiez - useful if you want to cross on till the summit of Cima Tosa along the Migotti route or to come down toward rif.Pedrotti (after climbing the Castiglioni dihedral)
2 very amusing middle class routes
NE dihedral - Castiglioni route - 300m - 3° - this route can be climbed also starting (I did it) from Rifugio Pedrotti and descending along the N ridge
East wall (Haupt-Lompel - 300m - 3°/4°)
some first class routes on fantastic rock :
on the East wall
- San Marco route (Steinkotter) - 350 - ED inf
- Barbier - 350m - ED
- Barbier-Hasse - 350m - ED sup - they say it is as hard as Cassin route to W Lavaredo
- Concordia route (Aste) - 350m - ED inf
on the SE wall
- Stenico - 350m - ED
- Aste- 350m - ED inf
- Vienna route - 350m - TD sup
... and the super classic, (let me call it fantastic) Fox-Stenico - 350m - TD - hard, exposed, absolutely free climbing (very few pegs)
When To Climblate spring - summer
Red Tapeno fees no permits required
Campingno need, hut is comfortable and seldom crowded
If you want you can carry a small tent for some hours in your backpack and place it on the meadows near the Rifugio
Images
|
