Overview
"Pizzi del Ferro" is the name commonly used for the 3 summits placed on the boundary Italy-Switzerland, enclosed on the italian side into "Valle del Ferro", and on the swiss side overhanging the "Albigna" glacier. They are part of the Val Masino Alps.
On this ridge 3 distinguished summits :
Pizzo del Ferro occidentale (west) - 3273m
Pizzo del Ferro centrale (main) - 3290m (also known in Switzerland as Cima della Bondasca)
Pizzo del Ferro orientale (east) - 3198m (also known in Italy as Punta Qualido
Major summits of Val del Ferro
Getting there
To get there you must drive along the SS38 starting from Milano or from Sondrio.
Just few km before Sondrio (coming from Milan), on the right side(N)of Adda river, the small town of "Ardenno" is the begin of the road 404 that leads to S.Martino Val Masino.
Once in S.Martino follow the road on the right (East - Val di Mello) and try to find a car park site (best one is near the "Baita del Gigiat"(1000m).
Once here you must start walking following the yellow signal for "Molteni-Valsecchi" bivouac (2510m - about 4 hours walk - 1500m difference in elevation). This is a recommended place for rests.
The first part of the path is not very evident, so you need to find it in the wood, keep allways the left side of the river.
As you can check on the related page, this bivouac is placed on the Sentiero Roma, and many people use to come here for a stage, from east (refuge Allievi - 3/4 hours), or from west (refuge Gianetti - 3/4 hours).
Coming here from swiss Val Bondasca is too long and not so easy and olso it requires the cross over the "Passo del Ferro" (3203m) along the glacier de la Bondasca (Val Bondasca)
Val di Mello
Valle del Ferro
Pizzo del Ferro occidentale 3273m(west)
Summit not very famous, situated on the western part of Val del Ferro.
Quite easy and funny to climb:
from Rifugio Gianetti
West ridge across Bondo pass - PD - 4 to 5 hours
from Bivacco Molteni-Valsecchi
East ridge across Ferro pass - F - 3 hours
South ridge - PD - 3 to 4 hours
East spur - PD/AD - 4 hours
South side
Pizzo del Ferro centrale 3290m(main)
Nice mountain with two different summits:
Western summit 3270m
from Rifugio Gianetti
West ridge across Bondo pass - F - 4 to 5 hours
from Bivacco Molteni-Valsecchi
West ridge across Ferro pass - F - 3 hours
Eastern summit 3290m
from Bivacco Molteni-Valsecchi
West ridge across Ferro pass - F - 3 hours
from ref. Sciora
North flank across glacier de le Bondasca - PD - 4 to 5 hours
North side Pizzo del Ferro orientale 3198m(east)
Placed on the eastern part of Val del Ferro.
Easy climb, strongly recommended for the beautyful panorama on the
Sciora group.
from Rifugio Allievi
East ridge across passo dell'Averta and colle Masino - PD - 3 to 4
hours
from Bivacco Molteni-Valsecchi
Western slopes - F - 3 hours
Accomodations
refuge Sciora
Refuge Sciora
Area: Val Bondasca
Altitude: 2118m
Route: From “Laret” above “Bondo” in Valbondasca 1330m
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: E Opening period: 1st of July to 30th September
Owner: CAS Sez. Hoher Rohn
Keeper: Bruno Hofmeister - Bondo. Tel. 0041- 81-82.21.164
Refuge telephone: +41-81-822138
Places: 42
Winter room places: 10
Climbs and excursions: Sciora group, Cengalo, Piz Badile
Email: none
refuge Albigna
Refuge Albigna
Area: Valle Albigna
Altitude: 2331m
Route: From cable car station of “Pranzaira” 2163m
Time: 30 minutes
Difficulty: EOpening period: 1st of July to 15th September
Owner: CAS Sez. Hoher Rohn
Keeper: Ruedi Sperb Buckstrasse 1 8820 Wädenswil Tel. +41-447806182 ruedi@sperb.ch
Refuge telephone: +41-81-8221405
Places: 90
Winter room places: 25
Climbs and excursions: All the summits that surround the Valle Albigna
Email: albigna@bluewin.ch
bivouac Molteni-Valsecchi
Bivouac Molteni-Valsecchi
Area: Valle del Ferro (Val di Mello)
Altitude: 2510m
Route: From S.Martino in Valmasino 923m
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: EOpening period: All year long
Owner: CAI Sezione di Como Tel. +39-031264177
Keeper: none
Places: 9
Climbs: Pizzi del Ferro
Excursions:
-Sentiero Roma
-Refuge Gianetti across "Passo del Camerozzo" 2876m (EE 2/3 hours)
-Refuge Allievi across "Passo Qualido" 2647m (EE 4 hours)