South Ridge

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Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 52.17630°N / 117.2347°W

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Crevassed Glacier

Grade: II

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Page By: Fred Spicker

Created/Edited: Jun 12, 2005 / Feb 26, 2006

Object ID: 165472

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Table of Contents

Overview

On the Upper Athabasca Glacier

Though it is probably the easiest route on the mountain as far as technical difficulties are concerned, the heavily crevassed approach to the South Ridge makes it a hazardous undertaking best done early in the season before most of the crevasses are open.

W.R. Hainsworth, J.F. Lehman, M.M. Strumia, and N.B. Waffl made the first ascent of Mount Andromeda via the Athabasca Glacier and South Ridge in July of 1930.

Approach

Ramp from Athabasca Glacier onto Columbia Icefield

View down Athabasca Glacier
Note crevasses.

Slopes from Icefield to peak

The South Ridge is accessed via the Athabasca Glacier. One could start from the toe of the glacier, but most parties will probably start from the Snocoach staging area thus saving a lot of glacier trudging. The objective is to climb the headwall of the glacier onto the Columbia Icefield in order to obtain the South Ridge. It is best to stay center or climber's left as much as possible since the right is threatened by seracs above the cliffs on Snow Dome.

Route Description

View up the South Ridge - the small col in the foreground

Once on the icefield, ascend to the small col between Andromeda and unnamed point 3330 m.

From this col, the ridge is followed to the summit. Climbing is without difficulty along mostly gentle to moderately steep snow. Late in the season, there may be some rock patches to cross.

Time for most parties is 5 to 7 hours from the parking area.

Climbing on the South Ridge:

Essential Gear

Glacier travel gear

Link

Some additional information on obtaining the icefield on skis and references to further information can be found HERE