~ Zavizan area, North Velebit (Mali Rajinac (1699m) highest peak on the page)
~ Rozanski Kukovi group, North Velebit (Gromovaca (1676m) & Vratarski Kuk (1676m) highest peaks on the page)
~ Alancic / Rozanski Vrh / Seravski Vrh, North Velebit (Goli Vrh (1670m) highest peak on the page)
~ Veliki Kozjak (1629m), North Velebit
~ Satorina (1624m), Mid Velebit (including whole area between it and Alan pass)
~ Stap area, South Velebit, (Debeli Kuk (1269m) highest peak on the page)
~ Visocica (1619m), South Velebit
~ Bojin Kuk (1110m), South Velebit
~ Viserujna (1632m) & Rujno, South Velebit
~ Paklenica area, South Velebit
~ Vaganski vrh (1757m), South Velebit (highest peak of Velebit)
~ Liburnija (1710m), South Velebit
~ Sveto Brdo (1751m), South Velebit
~ Tulove Grede (1120m), SE Velebit
~ Crnopac (1404m), SE Velebit

Note: Text on this and pages above is copyrighted and cannot be used in any kind of publications.

More Than Mountain

South Velebit from Bay of Nin (distance 30km)

Mountains have special place in hearts and minds of many nations, to some are even national symbols like Triglav is to Slovenians or Olympus to Greeks. Here it is often said that Velebit is such symbol to Croatians; a mythical mountain, a home of Gods. In the world of today such beliefs belong to tales but pride, admiration, respect, beauty, myth, reverence, defiance are just some of the words which Velebit evokes in Croatian people. When comparing height with higher mountains, like Triglav and Olympus or Alps, Velebit does not come close but its beauty and amazing diversity, powerful appearance, length beyond one's sight, unbreakable bondage with crystal clear blue sea at its foot make Velebit special and unique mountain in the world. Velebit has one more thing that many mountains lost long ago, its innocence. There are no huge huts, no hordes of people, just peace and wilderness. Till mid 20th century Velebit was quite isolated area. Even today there are many places where humans didn�t step with their foot. Yet Velebit left important mark in the history, literature and science of Croatian people. Zeljko Poljak, one of Croatian pioneers in mountain literature goes one step further saying that large number of Velebit enthusiast�s and Velebit experts created, by their field research and published work, a discipline we can call Velebitology. In 1978 value of Velebit was recognized by UNESCO which declared it a part of the international network of Biosphere Reserves. Velebit is one of the world�s undiscovered natural treasures. If you are looking for something completely different and uniquely beautiful come to Velebit, where mountain and sea, islands and sky interlaced in inextricable ball of beauty.

19km long stretch of South Velebit, which appears like a giant wall behind Ravni Kotari (Flat Counties) region. Between is Velebit Channel (not visible)

See another panorama of Velebit here

General Massif Info

Note: position given on this page is that of Ostarije pass, which is placed approximately on the half way between extreme NW and SE ends of Velebit massif
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Velebit is the longest and largest mountain (massif) in the Dinaric Alps system. It is 145km long, stretching from Vratnik pass, on the NW end, to the curve of Zrmanja river, on the SE end of the mountain. Width of the mountain varies a lot, from 30km on North Velebit to 15km on South Velebit. It is spreading on the area of 2274km^2. Of that 41km^2 is above 1600m.

It would be easiest to say that Velebit is huge wall, whose 3/4 rise and stretches above the sea in gentle arc. Last quarter, that is SE Velebit, rises above land. But things are not just that simple. On the mountain there is infinite number of ridges, funnel-shaped basins, valleys, rock towers, cliffs and peaks. Around 70 peaks exceed 1600m. On the North Velebit they almost reach 1700m, especially Mali Rajinac (1699m), which missed the mark by just one meter. North Velebit has most peaks above 1600m. On Mid Velebit peaks exceed 1600m like Satorina (1624m) or Zecjak (1623m). Mid Velebit has least peaks above 1600m. South Velebit has all the peaks above 1700m. This celebrated club has 14 members, 10 are major peaks, 4 minor heads. Highest of them all is Vaganski Vrh (1757m). Then come Sveto Brdo (1751m), Babin Vrh (1744m), Babin Vrh (1738m) and so on.

Velebit is very compact. Passes which are suitable for traffic and connect shore with continent are rare. They are narrow and invisible to eye from around mountain. That is also one of the reasons why the Velebit gives the impression of huge uninterrupted wall. It is important to stress that top part of Velebit doesn�t have one simple ridge but is wide area of several ridges or streaks of peaks and valleys between them. One point in space, such as pass, doesn�t make the whole border of wide area. They can be considered as highest points of a border. Some are above the seaboard side, some above continental. Roads crossed over Velebit on 6 places. Those passes, from NW towards SE, are: Vratnik (698m), Oltari (1050m), Veliki Alan (1412m), Stara Vrata (927m) near Baske Ostarije, Mali Halan (1045m) and Prezid (778m). The most important of those is Stara Vrata, which is in the middle of the mountain. According to those passes Velebit is divided in 5 parts, of which one is subgroup. Here it is also important to stress that this division goes mostly for top part of Velebit as seaboard side is very compact and doesn�t have clear borders. On the continental side borders are usually valleys and are not so difficult to determine.

~ North Velebit stretches from Vratnik to Veliki Alan. Senjsko Bilo is its northern part and stretches from Vratnik to Oltari.
~ Mid Velebit stretches from Veliki Alan to Stara Vrata
~ South Velebit stretches from Stara Vrata to Mali Halan
~ Southeast Velebit stretches from Mali Halan till the bend of Zrmanja river

Seaboard side is higher than continental. Altitude difference from sea to the lowest pass is 700m and to highest peak full 1757m. Continental side is lower but steeper, especially of South Velebit. It is from only 150m up to 1200m high because it rises above Lika region, whose altitude is between 450m and 600m. The appearance of two sides is very different. Lower half or so called first step of seaboard side, which is from 700m - 1000m high, is very craggy (rocky). On some places it is completely treeless and looks like Moonscape but generally it has trees which do not form forest but are scattered. Second step is generally under forest till forest line but this varies a lot since there are many rocky places and cliffs. Continental side is steep but under deep forests which gives it green color.

SEABOARD SIDE of Velebit, which faces W and SW, rises over at least two steps, sometimes even three. Above or behind each step is terrace.
First terrace is rocky plateau which appears just above the sea, on altitude between 60-350m. This terrace is not consistent along whole massif. It is most eminent along North and Middle Velebit, where, above Jablanac village on the coast, it is widest. Slope below terrace is wild and coast very indented with numerous bays and coves. Above some are cliffs while above most are bare rocky sides with scree slopes. Along South Velebit this first terrace is found on few places but it is much narrower and looses character of plateau. In form of plateau it again exists on places along SE Velebit but it is also not consistent as it melts with plateaus and fields of Bukovica region and North Dalmatian plateau.

Above this terrace or straight from the sea, if terrace isn�t present, rocky peaks, of which many have cliffs, rise. It is called first step of Velebit. Altitude of peaks varies from 700-1200m. This is paradise for karst lovers. Craziest rocky shapes on Velebit are found here like rounded heads, knife sharp ridges, funnel shaped holes, caves, monolith towers, natural doors, windows and so on. Among many such wild places idyllic green meadows are placed. Some of the peaks, cliffs or towers in the first step, starting from NW, are: Budim (1204m), Dundovic Kosa (848m), Strogir (791m), Meralovac (1184m), Kurozeb (1167m), Velinac (965m), Saljev Kuk (1200m), Stapina (1121m), Zvirjak (972m), Bojin Kuk (1110m), Anica Kuk (712m) and so on. First step is furrowed by numerous wild torrents which descent all the way to the sea. Some are very wild with torn cliffs. Their bottoms are strewn with huge boulders some have significant cliff jumps. Purpose of these torrents was to take water into the sea when it was abundant like in glacial periods. Today they are dry. One must wonder how it looked when water thundered through them. It certainly was spectacular. Mouth of each gorge and torrent is today bay or cove. Best known and most beautiful such bay is Zavratnica while two of such wildest torrents are Vela Draga and Kozjaca. Beside all the wild torrents on South Velebit first step is cut by two true and deep canyons, Velika & Mala Paklenica. Because SE Velebit is much lowers than rest of the mountain, its first step is the only step as it rises from lower plateau all the way to the highest peaks of particular part or the mountain or forms main seaboard ridge.

Behind the peaks of first step lies seaboard terrace. It is recognizable along most of massif, except on SE Velebit. Its altitude varies a lot, as peaks of first step in front, from 600-1200m. On places it temporarily disappears as it melts into the side of Velebit but soon appears again. Next part can be on same altitude or �floor� above or below. Terrace contains beautiful meadows, karst fields and plateaus. It was heart of semi nomadic life which existed on Velebit for centuries till mid 20th century. Ruins of houses are still recognizable in deep grass, while on small number of fields which have been reached by roads life still goes on. Some meadows and fields are surrounded by bizarre (read amazing) cliffs and towers which rise above their green bottoms. Those spots, but also some other meadows and fields which don�t have such amazing decorations, are some of most romantic parts on whole Velebit. Some of the more important places along the seaboard terrace, from NW are Babrovaca, Struga & Zelengrad and Dondovic Pod on North Velebit. Vrata, Mliniste, Radlovac, Brizovac and Ledenik are such places on Mid Velebit while on South Velebit most important are Konjsko, Javorovac, Stap, Rujno and Libinje.

Above seaboard terrace rises second step and this can be considered as HIGH PART of the mountain. Velebit doesn�t have a simple ridge so above terrace is seaboard streak of peaks. Height of the side varies from few hundred to 1200m above Paklenica valley. Behind the seaboard ridge is wide are of inner Velebit which is closed by continental streak above Lika. Width between both streaks varies from North Velebit, where it is widest, towards SE, where it is narrowest. Space is filled by high lying valleys or plateaus or several parallel ridges, streaks, or groups of peaks which North and Mid Velebit have. Peaks in main part of Velebit are numerous and are mentioned in each sub division section. Of the valleys and plateaus, which lie between them, it is worth to mention Smrceve Doline, Lomska Duliba and Jezera, on North Velebit, Stirovaca and Dabar valleys on Mid Velebit, Ramino Korito, Sugarsko Korito, Oglavinovac, Javornik, Struge and Dusice on South Velebit and Duboke Jasle on SE Velebit.

CONTINENTAL SIDE of Velebit is under deep forest, mostly of beech with spruce and fir and rises above the fields and hills of Lika. Generally it is steeper than seaboard side but on some places, like along part of North and Mid Velebit there are several series of lower hills which gradually rise till the foot of main continental streak. Here continental side is very wide. There several deep and long valleys cut into the massif, through the fore hills and into the continental streak. Such valleys are Krasanska Duliba, Apatisanska Duliba, Lomska Duliba, Bakovac valley, Pazariste valley and Suvaja valley. Senjsko Bilo, which is northern most part of North Velebit, and especially South Velebit rise above Lika steeply. From the foothill at the edge of Lika to the peaks in continental streak slopes are uninterrupted. Except below highest peaks of the mountain on South Velebit where on altitude from 1100-1300m continental terrace appears. From Lika side they are closed by forested peaks of first step while above terrace highest peaks which tower impressively ending with few hundred meters high cliffs. Along the terrace there is series of beautiful meadows and grassy valleys. Those are Stirovacka Poljana (1310m), Vagan (1150m), Medacki Dolac, Bunovac (1200m), largest of them, and Dolina Cubrilova.

Maps

These maps will help you to get sense where Velebit is placed and what is around. They are not very detailed because such vast area is very hard to fit into 650 pixels, allowed by SP. More detailed maps of particular areas are on group or peaks pages.

North Velebit

In the Kingdom of Rozanski Kukovi, North Velebit

North Velebit stretches some 30km between passes of Vratnik and Veliki Alan. This is wide (30km) mountain area without characteristic main ridge that would divide seaboard and inland side. N Velebit can be divided into 5 groups:

~ Senjsko Bilo
~ Zavizan-Rajinac
~ Rozanski & Hajducki Kukovi
~ Veliki Kozjak � Goljak
~ Alancic - Rozanski vrh

SENJSKO BILO
Senjsko Bilo is quite different from the rest of North Velebit. It is a 20km long ridge that is stretching between passes of Vratnik and Oltari and marks the beginning of Velebit. NW border of this group is road Senj � Vratnik pass - Zuta Lokva while SE border towards central part makes the road Sv.Juraj � Oltari � Krasno � Kuterevo. Highest peaks of the group are:

~ Jadiceva Plan (1416m)
~ Konaciste (1404m)
~ Kecina Greda (1492m)

They and whole ridge are falling steeply towards Gacko Polje in Lika, on the inland side, while towards sea group is descending more gradually, in many terraces. An upper part of the ridge and whole of inland side is under beech forest, which is mixed with conifers. Seaboard slope is on the other side rocky with lot of pastures and meadows especially on higher terraces where the series of constantly populated hamlets is. Some of those hamlets are:

~ Stolac
~ Hrmotine
~ Liskovac
~ Tuzevac

All of them are accessible by car either from Vratnik or Oltari passes. Senjsko Bilo is quite poorly marked with only few paths. There are no ascents from the shore between Senj and Sv.Juraj. But on the other hand there is quite a lot of forest roads which can help you explore this part of Velebit and help you get closer to highest peaks. Forest roads are here laterally that, macadam�s that go through forest with almost no view. On the other hand roads which lead over Vratnik and Oltari passes have fantastic views towards sea.

CENTRAL PART
Few ridges that lie in various directions, many peaks which are scattered all over and valleys between them make a mess of central N Velebit which is not easy to describe.

Seaboard side is rocky and steep, divided more or less in 3 steps.
1st step is around 300m high, rising steeply from the sea. On top of it is plateau which is used by Adriatic road. On the plateau there is lot of scattered hamlets or villages. This is bare rock land with some Mediterranean vegetation.
2nd step rises above it and is around 1200-1300m high. Slope is very rocky, partially covered by oaks, hornbeams, as altitude rises with maples, black pine and beech. Romantic meadows and valleys, surrounded with beech and conifer forest, lie behind this streak of peaks. This area is especially beautiful in spring when everything is blooming. All these meadows are connected by Sica � Alan marked path. Here are few peak/meadow combinations:

~ Markov Kuk (1386m) / Pandorina Plan
~ Visibaba (1396m) / Sarganusa
~ Budim (1204m) / Modric Dolac
~ Pecine (1228m) / Miskulinska Duliba

3rd step rises above this terrace and ends with seaboard streak of peaks, which are 1400-1600m high. All of them are rocky, with some cliffs, rising above beech, pine and conifer forests. This area is so wild that none of the peaks have been reached by marked paths. Most important of them are:

~ Opaljenik (1473m)
~ Beli Kuk (1474m)
~ Klanac (1476m)
~ Lisac (1541m)
~ Rozanski Vrh (1638m)
~ Alancic (1611m)

Behind them is wide central area which consists of Zavizan and Rozanski Kukovi. From seaboard streak Rozanski Kukovi are separated by huge Smrceve Doline � Cipala undulating basin. This is one of the wildest places on Velebit. It�s a combination of endless number of funnel-shaped holes and smaller basins, pure rocky chaos covered with spruce, fir and beech forest. Few rocky peaks rise above this area. They look like white islands above the green sea.
Behind Zavizan group is Lomska Duliba valley which separates it from Rajinac group while Rozanski Kukovi are separated from Hajducki Kukovi by Skrbina Draga and Veliki Lubenovac field. Above it is also Veliki Kozjak which with Goljak creates its own group. Other significant feature of the area is Jezera, large undulating grassy plateau, around 4km. It is placed in Zavizan and Rajinac groups. Only behind the North Velebit begins to gradually descend towards Lika on the continental side of the mountain.

Rozanski Kukovi and Hajducki Kukovi are story of their own. They are incredible group of rocky towers, cliffs, chasms, holes and sharp ridges. In 1969 they were declared Strict Nature Preserve.

Here is the list of most important and most of highest peaks of central region of North Velebit, which integrates all the groups are:

~ Mali Rajinac (1699m), Rajinac group
~ Veliki Zavizan (1676m), Zavizan group (photo)
~ Zavizanski Pivcevac (1676m), Zavizan group
~ Gromovaca (1676m), Rozanski Kukovi
~ Vratarski Kuk (1676m), Rozanski Kukovi
~ Goli Vrh (1669m), Alancic � Rozanski Vrh group
~ Veliki Rajinac (1667m), Rajinac group
~ Seravski Vrh (1661m), Alancic � Rozanski Vrh group
~ Krajacev Kuk (1659m), Rozanski Kukovi
~ Pljesivica (1653m), Zavizan group
~ Golubic (1651m), Hajducki Kukovi
~ Kuk (1649m), Hajducki Kukovi
~ Vucjak (1644m), Zavizan group
~ Zalovacka Kosa (1642), Zavizan group
~ Rozanski Vrh (1638m), Alancic � Rozanski Vrh group
~ Veliki Kozjak (1629m), Kozjak � Goljak group (photo)
~ Alancic (1611m), Alancic � Rozanski Vrh group
~ Goljak (1605m), Kozjak � Goljak group
~ Balinovac (1601m), Zavizan group (photo)

From Lika plateau, on the SE, 3 deep valleys cut into Velebit massif:

~ Apatisanska duliba is shortest and shallowest
~ Lomska duliba is longer and deeper. It ends on the edge of Zavizan basin
~ Bakovac is longest and deepest. It ends below Veliki Kozjak peak and it is dominated by it.

Continental side is also not easy to describe. North Velebit is widest part of Velebit. It is up to 30km wide. Markovica Rudina (1105m) above Gacko Polje field in Lika region is farthest push of Velebit towards E. Generally North Velebit gradually descends towards Lika with many forested ridges. Between them are above mentioned long valleys. Also at the foot of the mountain flows Lika river where is long Kruscicko Jezero accumulation lake.

Middle Velebit

Budakovo Brdo in autumn, Mid Velebit

Middle Velebit stretches from Veliki Alan (1401m) pass, above Jablanac on the north, to Baske Ostarije (field and village) and Stara Vrata (927m) pass, above Karlobag, which partially divides it from S Velebit. On the north it is divided from N Velebit by depression which contains streak of beautiful grassy basins and finaly deep Bakovac valley. Suvaja valley, which descends from Baske Ostarije towards Lika region, divides mid from S Velebit. Mid Velebit is 28km long and around 20km wide. Its main characteristic is forests. Largest forested areas on whole mountain are here. There are 3 parallel streaks of peaks, seaboard mid and inland.

Middle or main streak contains all the main peaks. Some of those peaks are not right above the seaboard slope of Velebit, but little bit inside, like Satorina. Peaks are free of forest and are mostly grassy or rocky with dwarf pine. They all offer beautiful views on the islands and sea. Most important are:

~ Zecjak (1623m)
~ Satorina (1624m), highest peak of Mid Velebit)
~ Ogradjenik (1610m)
~ Malovan (1611m)
~ Matijevic Brijeg (1611m)
~ Lisac (1449m)
~ Budakovo Brdo (1315m)
~ Bacic Kuk (1304m)
~ Soline (1264m)
~ Visibaba (1158m)

Bacic Kuk from Bacic Duliba

At Bacic Kuk is a beginning of Dabarski Kukovi, 7 km long streak of white cliffs. From here this main, seaboard, streak slowly get away from the seaboard side towards inner Velebit. The cliffs of Dabarski kukovi rise above picturesque Dabar basins, after which they got their name. They end at Ljubicko Brdo (1320m). From here streak of peaks slowly descends towards Lika plateau.

Seaboard streak is line of peaks in front of middle streak, but it is not consistent, so on places these peaks actually are part of main streak. On the NW they are grassy with long, also grassy, southern slopes which descent towards terrace behind 1st step of Velebit. Towards SE peaks of seaboard streak lose altitude, become ever rockier and are placed straight above the sea. Main peaks are:

~ Buljma (1451m), above Veliki Alan pass
~ Plesevica (1448m)
~ Kozja Vrata or Kosa (1399m)
~ Luksanovac (1472m)
~ Visibaba (1264m)
~ Ljuljacka (1278m), above Radlovac field
~ Kurozeb (1167m)
~ Razvrsje (1127m)
~ Velinac (965m), cliff above Karlobag
~ Ostarijski Badanj (1164m)
~ Basaca (1089m)

Inland streak, as its name says, is placed above inland side of Velebit. It is heavily forested and only the very tops are grassy with inevitable dwarf pine. On the inland side, deep and long valleys cut in from Lika. Main peaks are:

~ Veliki Golic (1550m), above Bakovac valley
~ Zalinac (1449m)
~ Debeljak (1506m)
~ Laktin vrh (1504m)
~ Javorovo Bilo (1367m)
~ Rusovo (1332m)
~ Metla (1288m)

Between Main and Inland streak of peaks is long valley, divided in many larger or smaller or deeper valleys by passes, but it is clearly visible along all Mid Velebit. It is mostly heavily forested with beech, mixed with fir and Norway spruce. These are largest forests of Velebit. Bottoms of valleys are usually romantic grassy meadows and former pastures. Largest of valleys is Stirovca, which contains 3 large meadows: Stirovaca, Jovanovica Padez and Borovacki Padez. Here grows one of the largest spruce forests in Croatia. Other valleys or basins are:

~ Klempina Duliba
~ Sundjer and Sundjerac
~ Tezakovac
~ Crna Duliba
~ Tomina Duliba
~ Budakova Duliba
~ Bacic Duliba
~ Dosen Dabar
~ Ravni Dabar
~ Crni Dabar

Along the seaboard slope, at the altitude between 750m-1150m, there is a terrace behind the 1ststep of Velebit. It contains streak of pastures and karst fields below the seaboard streak of peaks. All of them were inhabited till some 20-30 years ago. Today some of them are still in use during summer as pastures, some are holiday houses but most of them are decomposing quickly influenced by harsh Velebit�s climate. They are:

~ Bilenski podi (750m)
~ Starcevic Pod (750m), still permanently inhabited
~ Vrata (970m)
~ Jurcic dolac (1130m)
~ Mliniste (1000m), longest of them
~ Radlovac (950m)
~ Jasenovaca (950m)
~ Vrbanska duliba (980m)
~ Skorpovac (960m)
~ Brizovac (850m)
~ Sinokos (950m)
~ Kucista (600m)
~ Duboko (750m)
~ Ledenik (600m), inhabited

South Velebit

Sveto Brdo (1751m) & Mala Paklenica from Vinjerac, South Velebit

South Velebit stretches from Ostarije pass (927m), towards SW, till Mali Halan pass (1045m). It is 46km long what makes it the longest part of Velebit but with average width of around 15km narrower than North and Mid Velebit.

INLAND side of South Velebit is steep, much steeper than of N or Mid Velebit. Slopes mostly fall uninterrupted from peaks to Lika plateau, with considerable altitude difference, where they end like being cut off. But on the stretch below highest peaks of Velebit, at the altitude around 1200m, continental step appears. It begins below Badanj (1638m) peak and ends under Babin Vrh (1744m). It contains series of beautiful meadows and fields like:

~ Stirovacka Poljana (1310m) below Badanj (1638m)
~ Vagan (1150m) below Vaganski Vrh (1757m)
~ Medacki Dolac (1350m) below Segestin 1715m)
~ Bunovac (1200m) below Malovan (1709m), longest (2km) and most beautiful
~ Dolina Cubrilova (1320m) below Babin Vrh (1744m)

They are surrounded with beech forest, which is mixed with some spruce and fir. Some, like Vagan and Bunovac have excellent water sources. The one on Bunovac has only 5�C temperature in summer. These are very romantic spots with dramatic views towards highest peaks of Velebit, which tower above them.

SEABOARD side is much less steep. It descends towards sea in many steps.
First step, which is rising from the sea, is rocky with some Mediterranean vegetation, mostly oak, hornbeam and maple. Its peaks are between 700-1150m high. First 200-300 meters are deeply furrowed by numerous dry torrents or even small canyons, which run into sea. Today there is only water in them after heavy rains. But during glacial period they had purpose to take water from mountain towards the sea. One of the larger such torrents is Kozjaca, near Tribanj Sibuljina. It begins on Malo Rujno, runs through Zavrata field after which it tumbles steeply towards the sea. We can only imagine how spectacular it must have been in times when glacial waters thundered through it. Of course, most important such torrents are Velika & Mala Paklenica which are true canyons. Velika is up to 400m deep while Mala up to 300m. Velika Paklenica is larger while Mala is much wilder.

At the altitude between 700-900m, hidden by the peaks of first step, there is quite a large terrace. It contains largest fields on Velebit and beautiful meadows, which are like small oasis in predominantly rocky terrain. Most important are:

~ Konjsko (600m) field
~ Javorovac (700m) meadows
~ Rudelic Rastovci (650m) meadows
- Stap, one of most beautiful and romantic fields on whole Velebit
~ Bili Sinokos (720m) field
~ Duboki Dol (630m) deep basin
~ Pricatrnja Polje (750m) field, 1km in diameter
~ Zavrata (720m) field
~ Rujno, with 7km it is longest and largest field on Velebit
~ Libinje (750-900m), few kilometers long and wide rocky plateau and pasture

More prominent peaks or cliffs of first step are:

~ Saljev Kuk (1200m)
~ Visovaca (1018m)
~ Siroki Kuk (966m)
~ Jovin Kuk (954m)
~ Zvirjak (929m)
~ Bojin Kuk (1110m)
~ Veliki Golic (1268m)
~ Crni Vrh (1110m)
~ Jerkovac & Vrsina (1240m)
~ Jelovac (1098m)
~ Bukovo Plece (1170m)

Second step is rising above the seaboard terrace. Peaks of the second step are actually seaboard streak of main mountain area. Profile of this area would have a U or V letter shape. On one end is seaboard streak of peaks while on the other is inland streak. Between them is inner depression of South Velebitdeep valleys, fields, meadows, other peaks or ridges. Its peaks are described in each individual group below.

Terrain can be very complicated to describe. Common thing is that Velebit, including both streaks of peaks, is gradually rising from low point of Ostarije pass (924m, border with Mid Velebit) towards the highest peaks group, which ends at Sveto Brdo (1751m). From that point Velebit losses altitude till Mali Halan pass (1045m, border with SE Velebit).

Because of the configuration there is no prominent pass on the whole stretch of S Velebit, which could be used by road. There are only old paths, which are connecting Lika with coast. Most important paths, from continent towards sea, are:

~ Brusane �> Lukovo Sugarje
~ Rizvanusa -> Baric Draga
~ Divoselo -> Mandalina
~ Medak -> Starigrad Paklenica, which is most important.

On the basis of natural distinction, main mountain area of South Velebit is divided into 4 groups:
~ Sadikovac � Stolac
~ Visocica � Badanj
~ Vaganski Vrh � Sveto Brdo
~ Debelo Brdo-Golic

SADIKOVAC - STOLAC group stretches from Ostarije pass (927m) till Jelova Ruja - Sarica Duplje valley. Two streaks of peaks are clearly visible. Important peaks of inland streak, above Lika are:

~ Sadikovac (1286m)
~ Konjevaca (1381m)
~ Goli vrh (1451m)
~ Siljevaca (1450m)
~ Samari ridge (1207-1386m)

Between Siljevaca and Samari ridge there is narrow pass Ravni Samar (1157m) that is ascending from Rizvanusa in Lika and descends towards Jelova Ruja (950m). Road then continues, ascending towards Panas Vrh (1261m), where were military radar installations, which are abandoned now. They would be great mountain hut.

More important peaks of seaboard streak are:

~ Suplji Kuk (1149m)
~ Milkovic Kuk (1270m)
~ Krug (1342m)
~ Siljevo Brdo (1452m)
~ Veliki Stolac (1401m)
~ Mali Stolac (1262m)
~ Panas Vrh (1261m)

Between these two streaks are deep valleys. Ramino Korito, which is best known, has almost legendary status of 7.30h long and one of mot difficult sections of VPP trail. In its deep beech forests one has a feeling that civilization, which is only 10km away, doesn�t exist and that you are abandoned on the planet. Ramino Korito is long, up to 600m deep. Sugarsko Korito is very similar but narrower and even wilder. These are very lonely places where human foot is rarely set. Sugarska Duliba (1200m) meadows, between Krug and Veliki Stolac peaks are very picturesque.

VISOCICA - BADANJ group stretches from Jelova Ruja - Sarica Duplje depression till Struge plateau. It is considerably higher then previous group; many peaks here exceed 1600m. Two streaks of peaks are also present. Between them are forested valleys of inner South Velebit, which are not as deep as in previous group but feature high lying grassy fields and plateaus.

Peaks of inland streak are rising above beech forest and are grassy, important are:

~ Troseljev Vrh (1445m)
~ Visocica (1619m)
~ Pociteljski Vrh (1551m)
~ Golovrhe (1584m)
~ Visibaba (1640m)
~ Badanjski Vrh (1627m)
~ Badanj (1639m) (photo)

Between these to streaks there are few isolated peaks, which are rising considerably above the valleys of inner South Velebit which surround them:

~ Siljak (1491m)
~ Jelovac (1601m)
~ Kozjak (1572m)

Peaks of seaboard streak, which rise above the first step terrace, are mostly made of torn cliffs. Their rocky heads rise above beech forests, which are in lower layers mixed with oak, maple, ash and hornbeam. They are lower then peaks of inland streak. Important are:

~ Debeli Kuk (1269m) above Stap
~ Veliki Ploceviti (1352m)
~ Golic (1424m) above Racabusa
~ Bobicki Kuk (1439m) above Duboki Dol
~ Vilinski Kuk (1401m) above Malo Rujno
~ Viserujna (1632m) above Veliko Rujno

Previously mentioned fields and plateaus of inner South Velebit, which lie between two streaks of peaks, have been for centuries used as summer pastures of people living bellow the mountain. In modern days that way of living died. Today these fields are romantic and calm places where you desire to rest whole day. Important are:

~ Rudina (1300m) unulating meadows, between Visocica (1619m) and Pociteljski Vrh (1551m)
~ Janjcarica (1278m) meadows, below Pociteljski Vrh (1551m)
~ Oglavinovac (1236m) field, over kilometer in diameter, below Golovrhe (1584m)
~ Javornik (1300m) field, 3km long, almost 1 km wide, between Visibaba (1640m), Badanjski Vrh (1627m) & Badanj (1639m) on inland side and Viserujna (1632m) on seaboard side
~ Struge (1400m) plateau, divided on upper and lower Struge, 2.5km long, more than 1km wide

VAGANSKI VRH - SVETO BRDO group is culmination of Velebit. Inside 10km long stretch, between Struge plateau and Sveto Brdo, all 1700+m peaks are lined up. This is probably most dramatic part of Velebit, the one that would mostly remind one of Alps. Huge slopes are falling both on seaboard and inland sides. They contain cliffs, some few hundred meters high, steep scree slopes, large grassy slopes, huge funnel-shaped basins and unlimited views from grassy cones. Even here two streaks of peaks are present but they are only about kilometer apart. They are separated by huge funnel-shaped basins; some are more than 200 meters deep. Basin between Babin Vrh and Vaganski Vrh is deepest. The one between Vaganski Vrh and Brundo is large, almost completely overgrown by dwarf pine. Cesarova Dolina basin between Segestin and Malovan had few small houses for shepherds, not much is left of them and are hardly recognizable.
Side above Paklenica valley, which ends with seaboard streak of peaks, is huge, on places 1200m high. Lower part is under beech forest, which is mixed with maple and black pine. Above the forest are cliffs and scree slopes.
Side above Lika rises over 500m above the inland terrace and is very steep. First 200m are under beech forest, with some spruce and fir. Forest is stunted in the upper part because of harsh climate and avalanches. Above the forest are 200-300m high cliffs of towering peaks and scree slopes. Terrace melts into main body of mountain below Babin Vrh peak, so the slope of Sveto Brdo falls uninterrupted all the way to Lika plateau and is 1200m high.

First peak on the inland side is double headed Stirovac (1596m). Next is first of the big ones, triple headed Babin Vrh (1738m). Northern head has 1725m, while SE head has 1723m (photo). Vaganski Vrh (1757m) is highest peak of Velebit. It is broad and massive and has 4 smaller summit heads. First neighbor of Vaganski Vrh is Golic (1723m). Than comes sharp Segestin (1715m) and perfect cone of Malovan (1709m) (photo). Behind Malovan inland streak is lower than seaboard one, with one smaller peak, just over 1600m.
First peak on the seaboard side, rising above Buljma pass (1400m) is Rapavac (1617m), which falls with torn cliffs deep into Paklenica valley. Next is Crljeni Kuk (1661m). Between them is Babin Dolac (1450m) (photo), small grassy valley. Crljeni Kuk falls even deeper into Paklenica valley with 700m high cliffs. Just behind it is Zoranicev Vrh (1712m), which actually does not belong to either streak and is somewhere, in the middle. After Crljeni Kuk there are two smaller heads in the ridge, one is 1660m high and the other has 1634m. Brundo (1716m) is like Zoranicev Vrh little bit inside, between both streaks. In front of it is Liburnija (1710m), highest peak directly above Paklenica valley, above which it rises some 1200m! It has best view on the valley and sea. Some 300m bellow Liburnija, on the slope, isolated stands Babin Kuk (1435m) (photo), 200m high cliff. After Liburnija there are 3 nameless heads in the ridge (1707, 1670 & 1654m). In Bili Vrh (1657m) both streaks merge. Scenery after it changes. Slopes made of cliffs and long scree turn grassy. Joint ridge continues towards SE. First peak above Bunovacka Vrata (1600m) pass is Solilo (1675m) and than nameless sharp ridge (1689m), above Ledena Draga valley. Both fall towards inland side with perpendicular cliffs while seaboard side is grassy. Above Ledena Draga is also nameless head (1710m) and behind Babin Vrh (1744m) (photo) it, third highest peak of Velebit. After Babin Vrh there two heads in the ridge (1726 & 1710m). Finally group culminates in massive pyramid of Sveto Brdo (1751m), second highest peak of Velebit. On the seaboard side, between it and Babin Vrh, there is large round basin Doci that is 300m deep. It is closed towards sea by Sijaset (1558m). Below Sijaset, isolated stands massive Vlaski Grad (1375m) (photo).

DEBELO BRDO - GOLIC group has been so far put into Vaganski Vrh - Sveto Brdo group. I don�t see a reason for that because it is much different from it. It is significantly lower with less steep sides. Also two streaks of peaks appear again. Sveto Brdo rises some 400m above Dusice undulating grassy plateau, which is placed between two streaks of peaks. First neighbor of Sveto Brdo, on the seaboard side is huge Debelo Brdo (1440m). It is enormous grassy mountain, few kilometers wide, rising over 600m above Libinje plateau. Streak continues with Biljevina (1340m), Kruh (1311m), Bozica Vrsina (1240m) and Mali Golic (1197m). On the inland side first neighbors are forested Veliko Bilo (1500m) and Malo Bilo (1425m). They are closing Dusice from N & NE. SE of Dusice is Veliki Golic (1371m), which is somewhere between two streaks and bridges them. Behind it is Bliznaci (1254m). From here till Mali Halan (1045m) pass, where South Velebit ends, there are few forested peaks which are between 1100-1200m high.

South Velebit (Babin Vrh (1744m)) from Lika

End of day on the peaks of South Velebit

SouthEast Velebit

Crnopac (1404m), highest peaks of SE Velebit

SouthEast Velebit stretches from Mali Halan pass till the bend of river Zrmanja, where the mountain ends. With 40km of length, it is second longest part of Velebit. It is quite different from the rest of the mountain. First notable difference is height. Except Crnopac peak (1404m) SE Velebit does not exceed 1200m. Towards SE it gets further away from the sea and because of that snow here usually falls at much lower elevations then on the rest of Velebit. Also it is much less forested and much barer. Exception is inland slope, which is under beech forests. SE Velebit can be divided in two larger groups:

- Tulove Grede � Celavac
- Crnopac � Tremzina

Tulove Grede � Celavac group stretches some 15km, between the road passes of Mali Halan and Prezid. Two streaks of peaks are noticeable here also. Seaboard streak begins with Tulove Grede (1120m), beautiful group of glued smooth towers and unusual rock forms. Few other peaks towards east with are: Golo Brdo (957m), Vilenski Vrh (1058m) and Prolog (1008m). Just behind Tulove Grede, isolated between seaboard and continental streaks, is Oscenica (1183m). In the inland streak important is Cetinarica (1180m) and Celavac (1198m), which is occupied by TV tower and accessible by car from Prezid pass. Between these two streaks is Duboke Jasle, few kilometers long and quite deep valley or sort of a basin. This is largest pasture area on Velebit. Beside Duboke Jasle there are few smaller fields that are very beautiful, surrounded by rocky peaks with unusually picturesque cliffs and rock forms. Most beautiful are: Ladja, Caber, Puci and Prosenjak.

Tulove Grede sunset glow

Crnopac � Tremzina group stretches some 25km in length from Prezid pass till Zrmanja river, where Velebit ends. It begins with last important rise of the Velebit, Crnopac (1404m) peak, just above Prezid pass. Its sides are steep, ridge narrow and around 2km long. North of Crnopac is very wild, almost impassable, karst area, strewn with funnel-shaped holes and true labyrinth of ridges, which is partially covered with beech and spruce forest. Under this area are Cerovacke pecine, one of the largest cave systems in Croatia and largest on Velebit. It consists of Lower and Upper cave. Lower cave is 2385m long and Upper is 1282m long. Also hundreds of holes are hidden there (more in �Underground� section). South slopes of Crnopac are high and long, mostly bare, descending some 1200-1300m into the Canyon of Krupa River. SE of Crnopac are three smaller groups; Tremzina (1187m), Gostusa (1058m) and Kom (1003m) group, which descends into the Canyon of Zrmanja River, where Velebit ends.

Coast of Velebit

Coast of Velebit is very rough, rocky and indented. Almost whole massif is raising straight from the sea (except SE Velebit), on some places very steeply, even with few hundred meter high cliffs and scree slopes. Along the coast there is endless number of smaller bays and coves. Most of bays are actually mouths of wild gorges that descend steeply from the mountain. They used to carry the water towards the sea in long gone times, when waters were abundant, especially during ice ages. Most beautiful of them is Zavratnica (protected landscape) near Jablanac village and Porat near Lukovo Sugarje village. Coast is border of Velebit Nature Park. Because of its wilderness it is poorly inhabited but quite a lot of the bays are harboring villages, especially below South Velebit. Adriatic Road runs along it, on some sections just by the sea while on the other it climbs up to 300m offering great panoramas towards the sea and islands. Lonely Planet says that Croatian Adriatic Road is one of most beautiful drives on the planet; section below Velebit is maybe its most attractive section! Here is brief description of the road and places below and along it.

[ ] -> junction from Adriatic Road towards Velebit, continent or the coast.

Coast of Velebit begins in Senj town. Senj is 30 centuries old! It is placed on the coast in front of Senjska Draga valley and below Vratnik pass (700m). They divide Kapela from Velebit mountain. On the very long stretch of coast over Vratnik leads shortest link between coast and continent. That is why Senj was founded so early. It was very important Roman port and it was called Senia. When Slavs (here Croats) came to present Croatia they destroyed Senia. On its ruins today�s Senj was founded. Senj is notorious and well known because of Bura wind which here blows most of the year and in winter easily reaches hurricane force. It happens because cold air spills over the Vratnik pass and accelerates through Senjska Draga valley. This led to formation of Senjska Bura saying which means Bura of Senj.

[from Senj it is 14km to Vratnik (700m) pass, over which road leads towards Zagreb and Lika region]

~ From Senj Adriatic Road heads along the coast towards south. After 9km Sveti Juraj is first larger place.

[from Sveti Juraj, over Oltari (940m) pass, it is 32km to Zavizan on North Velebit, 22km to Krasno village on North Velebit and 48km to Otocac in Lika, on the other side of the mountain]

~ South of Sveti Juraj road continues along the sea, passing by the Raca camp and after 3km it reaches Zrnovnica bay, which has few houses. Here short creek runs into the sea. Also there are few under sea water sources which are well visible as it looks like sea is boiling on the spot where water reaches surface.

~ From Zrnovnica road begins to ascent to avoid steep coast which rises with cliffs above the sea, up to 200m high. Views towards sea and islands (Krk, Prvic, Goli, Sveti Grgur, Rab, Cres and Losinj) expand. [ After 5.5km, behind short tunnel, there is a junction (altitude 300m) where narrow road descends steeply 2.6km through very attractive scenery towards Lukovo village. It is placed in the nice bay, surrounded with steep slopes.]

~ In next section Azic-Lokva and Gornja Klada villages are by the road. Short branch ascends from Adriatic Road to Gornja Klada where trailhead of marked route towards Zavizan is. [After 7km there is junction (altitude 310m) towards Donja Klada, 2.3km, which is placed in the small bay which is submerged mouth of wild Vela Draga gorge.]

~ [After next 2.5km is double junction (altitude 300m). Towards coast road descends steeply towards Starigrad (kod Senja) village while upper road leads towards the mountain hamlet Velike Brisnice (530m) which are 4.3km away. Trailhead of marked path towards Rozanski Kukovi is there.]

~ In next stretch road passes by the Ivanca, Legci, Jurkusa and Zivi Bunari hamlets. Shortly behind Zivi Bunari there is a natural bridge above the road called Suplja Draga. After 12km there is double junction (altitude 240m).

[To the right road descents in many bends towards Jablanac (4.6km) and Stinica villages. From Jablanac ferry takes you on Rab island. Near Jablanac (1km to the south) is most famous bay along the Velebit coast, Zavratnica. Panoramic path reaches it from Jablanac. On many spots it is cut into the cliffs and there is one tunnel. Zavratnica is 1km long while sides are up to 200m high with crystal clear blue sea.]

[To the left road leads toward Veliki Alan (1412m) pass (18km) and further into Velebit (Stirovaca valley, 29km). Most of the road is asphalted till the pass. View from the last few km�s before the pass towards the sea is fantastic]

~ After 14km there is junction (altitude 230m) where road descents to Prizna village where is ferry port to Pag island.

~ Adriatic Road now gradually descends toward the coast. After 7km it goes through Cesarica and Ribarica villages. 6km more along the coast is to Karlobag, third largest place below Velebit.

[from Karlobag it is 17km to Ostarije pass (927m) and further 22km to Gospic town in Lika, behind Velebit]

~ Behind Karlobag road continues along the sea and after 5-6km it begins to ascent. On this section there is a small tunnel and nice view upon the coast. After few km�s spent on altitude road descends again to the coast where beautiful Porat bay is. Just behind the bay is Lukovo Sugarje village, 17km from Karlobag.

~ Behind Lukovo Sugarje road continues along the coast, going around many small bays in endless number of bends. Lined up are Krizac, Devcic Draga, Baric Draga, Tribanj Sveta Marija Magdalena, Tribanj Lisarica, Tribanj Kruscica and Tribanj Sibuljina villages, each in its own small bay.

[16km from Lukovo Sugarje, in Kruscica village, there is a road which ascends to Ljubotic village (300m) on the slopes of Velebit]

~ 9km from Kruscica road goes by Milovci hamlet, which is reached by 500m long branch from Adriatic Road.

~ 4km behind Milovci is Starigrad-Paklenica, second largest place below Velebit. Here is management of Paklenica National Park and entrance to Velika Paklenica canyon.

~ 3km behind is Seline village where entrance to Mala Paklenica canyon is.

~ 6km behind Seline is small Modric village and kilometer behind Rovanjska.

~ Just behind Rovanjska are the toll gates of the Zagreb � Zadar � Split highway, near Maslenicki Most bridge, where Velebit channel ends.

~ But coast of Velebit doesn�t end here, although it isn�t possible anymore to drive along it. Both Maslenicki Most bridges span over Novsko Zdrilo (Novsko Gorge) which used to be part of Zrmanja river canyon. Through the gorge Velebit Channel is connected with Novigradsko More (Novigrad Sea) which used to be large karst field by the Zrmanja river. When sea levels rose after last glacial period gorge and the field were flooded. Novigradsko More is over 40m deep and sides of Novsko Zdrilo gorge are still up to 100m high. Zrmanja river now flows into Novigradsko More. In the SE corner of Novigradsko More, few kilometers from mouth of Zrmanja, is another small gorge through which Novigradsko More is connected with Karinsko More. Here is where the coast of Velebit ends. Karinsko More shares the same story with bigger neighboring Novigradsko More. It used to be large karst field by the Karisnica river. But Karinsko More is no longer below Velebit but small Orljak (694m) mountain in the inner North Dalmatia.

Underground of Velebit � Holes & Caves

Velebit is very rich with speleological objects but not yet well explored. Caves are beautiful but not very large on world level while holes are amazing and belong among deepest in the world.

HOLES/PITS, shortcuts to the belly of Velebit

There are hundreds of HOLES/PITS on Velebit. Puhaljka is explored to depth of 318m and Mamet to 206m. Hole on Bunovac is 534m deep and it was deepest of Velebit holes for decades.

In 1993 new era of speleological exploration began, which was marked by discovery of Lukina Jama. Because of its amazing depth it was absolute sensation then. Everyone has always hoped that some day such object would be found and finally there it was one of the deepest holes in the world. With 1392m it is ranked 13th in the world and deepest in Balkans. At the time of discovery it was 9th deepest in the world. Its entrance is on the NE part of Hajducki Kukovi group at the altitude of 1436m. It is unique object in Dinaric Alps karst. The hole is almost vertical, steepest in the world, what makes it even more unique and it can easily be said that is one of the most beautiful holes in the world. On the bottom, is small lake or siphon behind which hole might extend. Few years after discovery expedition was undertaken to explore it in more detail. Then two speleologists dived in it, which was world record for deepest underground dive. They reached another siphon, some 50m away, behind which water channels extended further. Because of extremely cold water and wet suits they had it was not possible to continue. Brand new species of leech has been found in Lukina Jama and was named Croatobranchus mestrovi.

Also in recent history Ledenica hole was found and it is 514m deep but not yet well explored and it could be even deeper.

In 1995 another great object was found, 1000+m deep Slovakia hole. And again Slovaks found it (they also found Lukina jama). It is situated on SE part of Rozanski kukovi at altitude of 1520m, around 1h walk from mountain hut on Lubenovac. In summer of 1998 another expedition to Slovakia was organized. As expected the hole was deeper than 1000m and depth of 1301m has been reached. Maybe it is even deeper because at the �bottom� there are few horizontal channels which are under water and till they are also explored it not sure that true bottom has been reached. They found Croatobranchus mestrovi leech here too. Expedition in 2002 extended the depth of the hole to 1320m which currently puts it on 18th place in the world! At the end of the new channel is water siphon so it can be even deeper.

In 1997 Patkov Gust was found. It is another great object in Hajducki kukovi, 553m deep.

In 2001 Slovaks found another great object in Hajducki Kukovi group, Meduza hole that is 679m deep (previously 705m, third deepest on Velebit and fourth in Croatia). Till the discovery of Velebita hole, which is mentioned bit lower, Meduza had highest or deepest underground vertically on Earth, measuring 450m.

Another great object is Munizaba hole on SE Velebit in the northern karst of Crnopac. It was first explored by Ozren Lukic in 1989, who was killed few years later in 1990�s independence war. Lukina Jama was named after him. Munizaba is 448m deep and 1115m long. Its trademark is large underground spaces. In terms of volume it is largest hole on Velebit. Especially impressive is first hall below entrance with 120x80m dimensions as are some corridors which are 20-30m wide and up to 70m high. Also there is 30m wide lake in lower part of the hole.

Also during past several years 35 new holes were discovered on the ridge of Kita Gavranusa on North Velebit. Deepest of them is Paz hole with depth of 388m.

In summer of 2004 speleologists explored Velebita hole, that is placed in Rozanski Kukovi group. It is 582m deep but what is unique about this hole is that it has deepest or highest uninterrupted underground vertically in the world, measuring 516m as from 62m of depth it is one vertical chamber, up to 30m wide. At the bottom are several smaller lakes and 8 Croatobranchus Mestrovi leeches were found here, which is more than in any of nearby gigantic holes.
In the summer of 2005 exploration of Velebita pit continued. New channel was discovered which deepened Velebita considerably. Current reached depth is 941m! This puts it on the third place on Velebit and in Croatia. Because of huge amounts of water (rainy summer) further exploration was not possible so depth of the pit can extend, possibly over 1000m, which would be extraordinary!

Recently 206m deep Mamet hole on SE Velebit became known around the world after Felix Baumgarthner from Austria, who is known as most daring BASE jumper in the world, BASE jumped into its blackness on 17.10.2004. That was most dangerous and most daring event in history of BASE jumping so far because fall is short and there is no time for eyes to get adjusted to darkness but he pulled it off successfully.

Still many holes wait to be found and Velebit will continue to deliver surprises.

Here is a list of holes/pits on Velebit, deeper than 500m, found so far:

1) Lukina Jama, 1392m, Hajducki Kukovi, North Velebit
2) Slovacka Jama, 1320m, Rozanski Kukovi, North Velebit
3) Velebita, 941m, Rozanski Kukovi, North Velebit
4) Meduza, 679m, Rozanski Kukovi, North Velebit
5) Patkov Gust, 553m, Hajducki Kukovi, North Velebit
6) Ledena Jama, 536m, Lomska Duliba, North Velebit
7) Ponor na Bunovcu, 534m, Bunovac, South Velebit
8) Jama Olimp, 531m, Hajducki Kukovi, North Velebit
9) Lubuska Jama, 521m, Hajducki Kukovi, North Velebit

CAVES, magic below the surface

CAVES are also numerous on Velebit. Some of them are Manita Pec, Jama Vodarica, Vrtlina, Cerovacke Pecine and number of caves in Paklenica. Cerovacke Pecine is one of the largest cave systems in Croatia and it is well known tourist point. It consists of Lower and Upper cave. Lower cave is 2385m long and Upper is 1282m long. Vrtlina is around 900m long with one hall 80m in diameter. There are numerous caves and holes on Lika plateau in the foothills of mountain. Their purpose is to take water through massif of Velebit to the sea.

Water

According to karst terrain and limestone structure Velebit is quite poor with water. There is small number of surface flows and they are usually short. Only few of them have strong and constant sources. One of those is Velika Paklenica creek and it has few sources. Highest of them is at 1200m near Ivine Vodice refuge in upper Velika Paklenica valley. Velika Paklenica flows during all year. Only during summer months when there is no rain for almost 2 months it disappears in its rocky bed. But only in last 1/4 of its flow. During autumn, winter and spring it has plenty water. Along the trail to Paklenica hut, during hot summer, you can find many beautiful pools to refresh in. They attract you with their emerald color. Mala Paklenica creek is much poorer with water than Velika Paklenica. It also has a constant source bellow Vlaski grad peak but it almost never makes all the way to sea. There is plenty water only is spring when snow starts to melt. There are dozen sources on Ostarije field, border between South and Mid Velebit. They feed Ljubica creek that flows some 3 kilometers before disappearing in its bed. Periodical is also Borovi potok creek on Veliko Rujno (around 900m) which has its source on Strazbenica pass (1200m). But there are sources on many other places. Some of them are week and some more powerful, some always have water. Well-known source is in Stirovaca valley and it has temperature of 4�C in July. Also sources at Vagan and Bunovac valleys bellow Vaganski vrh and Malovan are well known for their cold water. There is also Ivino vrelo source at 1530m bellow the peak of Visocica, Liscani bunari 1250m. Water can also be found in stone basins few days and even longer after the rain. Others are only small creeks with very small flows, like those in Jovanovica and Crni Padez near Stirovaca on Mid Velebit. There are few well-known water-wells like the one on Marasovac, Veliko Rujno or Veliko Mocilo. Every source or well will be mentioned by any of Velebits routes.

Rivers of SE Velebit

Zrmanja river

Karst terrain is poor with water, at least on the surface. But where karst shows the water it is something special. Rivers of SE Velebit, Zrmanja & Krupa, show that this can't be truer. I've heard from many tourists, who come here from around the Europe, that these two rivers are the most beautiful they saw. Their waters come from Velebit and regions behind it, finding its way through the mountain and appearing on its 'sunny' side. These waters are crystal clear and clean, deep and calm in their canyons while making thunderous noise when tumbling down the numerous waterfalls. If you wonder why it happens here, below SE Velebit, it is because this is the only part of Velebit that is rising above the ground while other parts are above the sea. This also means that along the coast of Velebit there is lot of under sea water sources.

Till recently they have been undiscovered by people, especially their canyons which are preserved oasis of wilderness. Recently word began to spread of their beauty and number of visitors in ever growing, although it is really small still. Currently greatest danger is wild and unsupervised rafting which is organized by numerous agencies. Although this is most beautiful way to get to know the rivers it is worst. People walk over and jump from waterfalls, bottoms of rafts, kayaks and canoes scratch them too and break Sedra. What is sedra? Waterfalls are alive on karst rivers, they grow constantly as calcium carbonate is extracted in water which then sediments on moss. Result is sedra or travertine which turns into rock with time and that makes waterfalls grow. This is very long process which takes years and years while reckless rafters break upper soft parts in one step. Organizers of rafting should instruct their customers of these phenomena and tell them to be careful. Best of all would be to give status of strict preserve to rivers of SE Velebit and organize supervising of rafting and other activities around rivers. This status would also prevent any kind of construction along the rivers. If you go on rafting, please be careful not to break sedra or throw anything into the rivers.

Several agencies organize rafting or canoeing. Here are few links to make it easier for you. I don�t have to do anything with any of them so I guess they should feel lucky for having free advertisement. Type on Google �Zrmanja rafting� and you�ll find more.

Slaptours (Zrmanja rafting direct link)
Foris (Croatian only)

~ Zrmanja river

Zrmanja river

Zrmanja river brings life to thirsty Bukovica region. Its source is behind Velebit, near Zrmanja Vrelo village at the altitude of 395m. From here Zrmanja makes 69km long journey around Velebit and makes its SE border, which is also border of Velebit Nature Park. On its way it receives waters of Krupa and Dabarnica. While it spends most of the time in the canyon it also passes through 5 fields: Mokro, Ervenik, Zegar, Bilisanske Luke and Muskovacke Luke fields. On the part of its course, between Ervenik and Zegar, during longer droughts, it disappears underground. Most beautiful part of the river is from Zegar till the sea. Zrmanja is in the canyon, which is up to 250m deep. Section contains lot of waterfalls and cascades. Especially is beautiful Veliki Buk waterfall, which is 15m high, just few hundred meters lower of place where Krupa flows into Zrmanja. There are no access roads to this area so beauty is reserved only for rafters and kayakers. From Obrovac town till the sea Zrmanja is calm in its 200m deep canyon, which is navigable for smaller ships.

~ Krupa river

Krupa river

Krupa is biggest tributary of Zrmanja and is inside Velebit Nature Park along its whole flow. It is even bigger than Zrmanja. It is hard to tell which river flows into which. It is just that Zrmanja is longer till this point. 15km long journey begins near Krupa village, at the foothills of SE Velebit. River appears through the stones of rocky slope, immediately cascading as a quite powerful river. Below Krupa village, after 2km�s it enters a small canyon. After few kilometers canyon suddenly widens and Krupa enters rounded Manastirsko Polje (Monastery Field) field where Krupa monastery is placed. Behind the field it enters canyon again and never leaves it. On this journey its canyon is carved into the slopes of Velebit and up to 200m deep. There are numerous waterfalls, some 12m high. Between them Krupa is mostly calm, quite deep and has amazing green and blue color. Now there is a marked route through the canyon which goes from Monastery till the point where Krupa and Zrmanja meet. One of most beautiful locations in canyon of Krupa is Kudin Most old bridge where are several waterfalls and beautiful smaller cascades.

~ Krnjeza river

Krnjeza river

Krnjeza is short but powerful and impressive tributary of Krupa river. It appears at the bottom of 300m deep chasm, coming out strongly from the huge cave. Its journey to Krupa is only 2km long but goes through 200-300m deep and wild canyon. In summer, when it is drought, Krnjeza appears on the surface some 500m lower of the cave. Than it is possible to enter the cave, pass under a natural bridge and descent to deep blue lake, surrounded by smooth cliffs, very spooky and fascinating place.

Climate

Climate of Velebit is well known thanks to Zavizan meteo station (1594m), which is observing weather since 1953. On WeatherOnline & DHMZ (Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Association) sites you can find current data for Zavizan and on WeatherOnline even forecast.

In general climate of Velebit is very harsh, much more than on any Alpine station at the same altitude. It receives more precipitation, including snow, and is colder. On some days it can even be colder than on stations which are more than two times higher like Aiguiile du Midi (3842m, France, below Mont Blanc), Klein Matterhorn (38820m, Switzerland, above Zermatt) or Jungfraujoch (3580m, Switzerland, above Grindelwald).

Note: Zavizan hut and station is placed on the southern slope of Vucjak (1644m) and by it partially protected from Bura wind. That is unfortunate because we don�t have proper readings, from top of mountain, of strongest wind in Europe whose gusts below mountain reach up to 300km/h! Bura wind generally blows from NE direction but when reading data from Zavizan station it is important to know that because of Vucjak peak Bura there blows from E (90�) direction. So, when you see that wind is from that direction it is Bura and real strength is at least twice stronger! I asked why they don�t place anemometer on some normal place where we could have real readings but weather man told me that reading must be from the station. One more interesting thing is that every anemometer which was installed on Zavizan so far has malfunctioned. It was either broke by Bura wind or by huge amounts of ice. All other winds have real readings.

Cold period lasts longer, especially in high areas of the mountain, from October to sometimes mid May. Coldest months are December, January and February. Lowest temperature on record is -29�C. 158 days per year average daily maximum temperature is below 0�C.

Warm period lasts shorter, from mid May to October. Difference in average January monthly temperature and the one in august is 17�C. But word �warm� must not be taken literally. Only in July and August there are �no� days with temperature below 0�C. �No� because sometimes snow can fall even in summer or temperature can drop below 0�C but that is very rare. During the passing of the front and rain temps regularly drop below 10�C in summer. Microclimatic changes of temperature can be significant even in summer. In lower shallow layer of air, night temperature in some valleys can drop to �6�C. But generally speaking in July and August you can expect max daily temperature to be pleasant, between 15-22�C. Maximum temperature on record is 29�C. This of course goes for the highest parts of mountain. While on top you can have pleasant 20�C at the same time along the coast and lower parts of mountain there can be true hell with temperatures over 40�C. Temperatures like that (up to 42�C) have been recorded at the entrance into Mala Paklenica canyon. In the highest areas of Velebit temperature exceeds 20�C only when it is hot around the massif (30�C or above). Temperatures above 25�C are very rare.

Average annual precipitation increases from NW to SE end of Velebit. On Zavizan meteo station (1600m) it is 1800-2000mm. On Ostarije (924m), in the mid part of the mountain, rain amasses 2100-2500mm. On Mali Halan (1045m) at S Velebit end, there is 2500-4000mm of rain. Wettest months are October and November in autumn and April and May in spring. All in all, if Velebit weren�t heavily karstified limestone massif there is enough precipitation to sustain numerous surface flows, but instead all the water goes underground.

Snow: First snow falls between beginning of September and at latest mid November. Usually it will cover peaks by the end of October and lasts till beginning or mid May, depending on amassed snow during the winter. Almost every second year first snow falls in the first half of September or even by the end of august but it doesn�t last usually more than a day or two. Highest amount of snow on record is 320cm. Those figures are higher for highest peaks region on S Velebit where every winter 2-3m is expected. Snow drifts as high as 15 meters have been recorded. Average amount of snow on Zavizan from winter to winter is between 120-200cm. Lowest amount of snow recorded was 80cm in 1963/64 season. By the mid May snow usually doesn�t cover the ground anymore. But in shadows of cliffs on the north side, below highest peaks of Velebit, snow usually lasts till June and patches of snow till July. In some holes and pit�s snow holds up whole year.

Clouds & Sun: From November till March average cloudiness is considerable. For highest part of the mountain very characteristic is huge number of days in clouds. Statistics say that Zavizan spends 187 days in coulds per year. That number is even higher for highest peaks region above Paklenica. Reason for such huge numbers is position of Velebit. It rises like a wall above sea and is border between continental and Mediterranean climate. Most days spent in clouds come in November and December (around 20 per month). Average monthly moisture rises over 90%. Warm and moist masses come with SW wind from the Mediterranean low pressures. While they rise up the mountain they cool down and condensate, so highest peaks can be closed by clouds whole month.

All of this of course doesn�t mean that Velebit is in the clouds all the time. The sea that will often cause mountain to be closed by clouds will also enable lot of sunshine hours. While continental part of the country can stay cloudy long after the rain stops and front passes, above the Adriatic it starts to clear very quickly. In the winter especially are beautiful days after the Bura wind when air is cold but crystal clear with fantastic views. In the June, July and August clouds are something that you don�t see very often. Summer is usually quite dry here, with no �real� rain for few months. Of course, chance for rain is much greater on tops of Velebit than on the coast. It is sunny from day to day with some daily clouds that can sometimes produce local heat storm. Statistics say that there are 5-6 local storms per month during the summer. Well it seams that data goes to history because there haven�t been so many storms in the past decade, at least not from locally developed afternoon storms. But, in summer heavy thunderstorms can be expected during the passing of the frontal system, especially in June and July, when difference in the temperature of air in front and behind the front system is significant.

Wind: Wind has huge influence on climate of Velebit. There are more than 150 days with strong wind per year. 40 of those 150 days are with wind above 100km/h. Most important and very well know wind around the meteorological world is BURA. It blows from NE direction. Highest peaks, passes and whole of seaboard side and coast below it are especially exposed. Bura is dry and cold katabatic wind (fall-wind) that blows from continent towards sea. It blows during whole of year but it�s strongest in winter after the cold fronts pass or there is low pressure above Adriatic or Mediterranean. Cold air from continental Europe or even Russia starts to flow towards south and �spills� over the coastal mountains. While Bura is blowing ridge of Velebit is in the cloud that is called Kapa or cap. It looks like it is sitting on the mountain but if you look better you will see that it is moving very quickly like a waterfall over the edge. It is usually very smooth and disappears on certain altitude. Bura is very dangerous and it quite often reaches hurricane force. Here it is called Orkanska Bura (orkan=hurricane). Gusts over 300km/h have been recorded on the coast below Velebit. Winds speeds of up to or over 200 km/h happen several times during the winter. But Bura over 100 km/h is very frequent between December and April. This is the strongest wind in Europe. When it blows like that traffic is paralyzed along the coast and over the passes. Roads have to be closed because Bura can flip over truck or bus and even car like a feather. Another danger on the roads on lower altitudes is that before the front passes it rains. Then Bura begins to blow and quickly drops temperature below 0�C, turning wet roads into icy skating ground in matter of minutes. Higher up the mountain blizzards build drifts very quickly. Velebit channel is in huge cloud of salt dust that wind cuts from the waves. It is deadly to be on the mountain then. Bura produces unbelievable wind chill effect, even when temps are moderately below freezing. Just imagine what it does with temperature of around �20�C and wind up to 250 km/h. It becomes unbearable. Read more about Bura wind in general at WeatherOnline.