The Alphubel is a very characteristic mountain of the Wallis because of its trapezium formed silhouette of East and West, although these both sides have totally different characters: In the East, the glaciers go up to the summit and build a summitplateau of almost 1 km length from the South to the North. In the West, there goes a rock face with a similiar width 500 to 700 hm steeply down to the Weingartenglacier. From the Alphubel you have a very nice view over the Mischabelgroup and across to the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa . If there is fog, it is difficult to find the highest point of the Alphubel because of the many different summits and the summitplateau.

The first climbers came from Täsch. From the other side, the Alphubel was climbed first only 22 years later. The reason was probably, that the Alphubel was more famous for the people of the Matter Valley than those of the Saaser Valley. The Rotgrat was climbed for the first time in 1889 (by George Broke with Adolf and Xavier Andenmatten). The first ascent with skis was on the 29th March 1910 from Saas Fee. Dr. Alfred von Martin and Hermann Rumpelt together with the guide Oskar Supersaxo from Saas Fee needed 9 h in order to reach the Alphubeljoch.

Alphubel is a very popular ski mountain and is usually accessed from Längflue. In summer I would suggest to climb Allalin early in the morning and then attach the Alphubel via Feekopf. If you are on a vacation, continue to the Alphubeljoch, stay at the Alphubeljoch bivouac. where the chain of Mischabel starts, and try Täschhorn and Dom next day and sleep at the Dom hut.

For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.

Getting There

1. To climb the Alphubel:

a. You can either start from Längflue (2869m).

b. or from the Täschhütte (2701 m).

b. or from the Mischabeljoch-Biwak (3851 m).

2. Längflue:

a. from Saas Fee take the 2 cable cars to Längflue or walk within 3 hours. The first part leads to Spielboden (2448m) and offers a beautiful walk through a forest of larch trees. Just below Spielboden you can play with marmots that leave their holes in order to beg for food. Do not feed them, they are too fat anyway. The upper part is just the opposite: the nature is being destroyed by skilift construction and all rocks had to disappear due to skiers. Very ugly!
The cable cars run only between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.

You reach Saas Fee by car or bus from Visp (Rhone valley). Last bus leaving Visp after 8 p.m. Parking place just outside the village; fee in Saas Fee around sfrs. 10 per day

You reach Visp by car or train:

West

North

East

South

3. Täschhütte (2701 m):

Starting point is Täsch (railroad, car parking for sfrs. 7.50 per day). Reach the Täschalp on a small road from Täsch via Täschberg ( 2 1/4 h, 770 hm). From there to the hut from Täschalp (Ottavan) in 1 1/4 h, 490 hm. You go on a wide way, at first a few meters along the Rotbach, and then zigzag through the hangs western below the Rotridge. You traverse below the hut and reach it from the E. This is also the winter ascent. Danger of avalanches above the Täschalp!

Täsch is accessed from Visp by train or car (parking fee!)

3. Mischabeljoch-Biwak (3851 m)

Route to the bivouac is the route to Mischabeljoch. A full day from Täsch, 4 hours from Längflue. Lots of crevasses. Usually used as a connection between the Allalin group and the Mischabel group.

When To Climb + Gear

Summer and winter (with skis)

Some transportation units do not operate in November (overhaul)

Summer: rope, axe
Winter: rope, axe, avalanche detector, shovel

panorama from Alphubel

General Information

For books, maps, webcams, trains, buses, weather, avalanches, rescue see my list Swiss Links in a new window.

Maps and Guide Books

Books: (German or French)
Walliser Alpen, Vol. 5 (German or French): vom Strahlhorn zum Simplon, Verlag Swiss Alpine Club
Ski alpin, vol. 3: Alpes Valaisannes, Verlag Swiss Alpine Club

1:25000 no. 1328 Randa
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
1:50000 no. 5006S Mischabel (with ski-routes and difficulties)

See the Swisstopo Map with many interesting features. Upload is in a seperate window.

Accommodation

1. Längflue (2867m)

Längflue hut lies just below the Alphubel. You get out of the hut , step on the Fee glacier and you will never leave up to the summit.
- 130 beds (20 winter
- serviced almost all year round.

2. Täschhütte (2701 m)
The Täschhütte is situated highly above the valley of the Täschalp, a little bit on the southern side at the foot of the Alphubel-Rotgrat (southern W-ridge). From this place, you have a wonderful view to the Weisshorn. It is a good starting point to climb any summit between Täschhorn and Rimpfischhorn.

3. Mischabeljoch-Biwak (3851 m)

24 beds
Route to the bivouac is the route to Mischabeljoch. A full day from Täsch, 4 hours from Längflue. Lots of crevasses.

There is a camping ground in Saas Grund

Routes Overview

1. East-flank from Längflue
Normal and ski route. Usually there are tracks. First in direction to Albhubelhjoch, then either straight up (35°) to 4206 m (summer) or to the right 4125 m (ski). Easy, 4 hours.

2. SE-ridge from the Alphubeljoch
This is the ascent of the first climbers in 1860. Leave pt. 3904 to your left. 2 hours from Alphubeljoch. More interesting than 1. Max 40°, PD.

3. W-ridge (Rotgrat) from Täschhütte
Interesting mixed tour. From hut keep north to saddle 3141 of the Weissgrat. Descent, then leave the path and head for 3637 on the Rotgrat and follow it to the top. 6 hours. III+.

4. N-ridge from Mischabeljoch
Follow the ridge, 1.5 hours. Normally easy.

5. W-ridge (to the North-summit, 4116 m):
From Täschhütte (or Täschalp) towards Mischabeljoch to pt. 3219 above the small lake. Start the ridge. At 3800m climb around the gendarme on the south side. 9 hours, excellent rock and pleasurable climb. IV.

There are more but seldom climbed ascents.

Literature

Hermann Biner, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass. 2nd ed. 1996.
ISBN 3-859022-160-5

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
ISBN 3-7633-7427-2

Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
ISBN 3-7654-2124-3

Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1999.
ISBN 3-7633-2416-X

External Links

Alphubel at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

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