Southwest of Telluride a rugged group of mountains scour the sky. To many, these are among the most beautiful mountains in the state of Colorado. These are the San Miguel mountains, a subrange of the sprawling San Juan mountains in the southwest corner of the state. Clustered together in this range are three fourteeners. Mt. Wilson and El Diente (both rated Class 4) offer distinct challenges to climbers of all types, particularly those seeking to climb all of Colorado's fourteen thousand foot summits. The third fourteener is Wilson Peak (Class 3), a stately, beautiful mountain that impresses just about anyone who sees it. Wilson Peak introduces casual travellers to the San Miguels along highway 145. This stretch is well known for spectacular vistas of color in the fall, and Wilson Peak is usually found in the pictures of tourist's photo albums, calendars and greeting cards. Just about every photo of this mountain (except from the climbing routes), including those on this page, prove that Wilson Peak is one of Colorado's most photogenic mountains.

For those that love the mountains, Wilson Peak often turns out to be a favorite, not only because of its beauty, but because of the unique challenges it offers climbers. Opportunities to expand one's experience with climbing, snow and ice, loose rock and exposure abound on this mountain. Many start with this mountain before attempting its neighbors. Climbing all three in one day has been done. If you are successful at summiting this mountain, be sure to take time to enjoy the top and savor your accomplishment, and know you are a bit better prepared for other challenges to come. Two of them can be seen from this glorious summit to the south.

Local CMC climbing legends Carl Blaurock and Bill Ervin, along with Dusty Smith made the supposed first recorded ascent of Wilson Peak in 1921 on a trip that also included a climb of nearby Mount Wilson. However, it is reasonable to assume the mountain was previously climbed by miners, as there are a number of prospect tunnels located high on the mountain. Native Americans may have preceeded the miners as well. The prospect claims mentioned here are now part of the controversy surrounding this mountain (see below).

Climbing Wilson Peak

Climbing Wilson Peak should not be taken lightly. The easiest route, the Southwest Ridge route (Class 3), is still a loose affair. The mountain's beauty is matched by its potential for danger. Loose, rotten rock is the admission price, typical of many San Juan summits. Do your research and all you can to prepare for this challenging climb.

A Mountain In Trouble-November 2007 Updates

PREVIOUS EVENTS IN THE WILSON PEAK-SILVER PICK ACCESS SAGA

RECENT UPDATES AS OF SEPTEMBER, 2008

According to the CMC's Trail and Timberline publication, the proposed NEW Silver Pick route will start from the end of the road in Elk Creek, the next basin to the west. It will climb above Elk Creek and switch back to go round the buttress into Silver Pick Basin, well above the remaining private property. The trail will side slope to the Rock of Ages saddle. The CMC hopes to construct the route in 2009, pending review of the route by various organizations. As described, the route is 1.5 miles longer than the old route at 7.4 miles and 3,400 feet of gain. Concern may be raised about the route's course, which crosses highly avalanche prone slopes in Silver Pick Basin enroute to the saddle.

TELLURIDE DAILY PLANET, July 31st, 2008: Silver Pick Route Officially Open NEXT YEAR

Trail & Timberline, June 2008 reports the FS plans to finish laying out a trail route through Silver Pick Basin once the snow melts, over the course of the summer. The CMC, Telluride Mountain Club and San Miguel County are assisting the FS in funding the plan and construction. A series of work days, with CMC volunteers will hopefully get the trail constructed in a timely manner in 2009. Until then, consider the Silver Pick Access closed. The Southwst Ridge route however is OPEN, and can be accessed from Navajo or Bilk Basins.

Be sure to refer to the following links for details.

TPL Site About Wilson Peak Access

14ers.org Update

May, 2008: CMC Raises $12,000 for Wilson Peak Access
CMC and their partner, the Telluride Mountain Club, raised over $12,000 for work on Wilson Peak access. Key funding came from the Telluride Foundation, San Miguel County, the CMC Conservation Department, Osprey Packs and the members of fourteenerworld.com. Several individuals in the Telluride and Denver areas also made significant contributions.

The dollars raised assisted the Forest Service in doing a survey of several mining claims in Silver Pick Basin at the end of the 2007 climbing season. We anticipate further fundraising to assist the Forest Service in design and construction of a new trail in the Basin that will avoid the mining claims retained by the property owner.

November 16, 2007: After months of negotiating and securing a hefty loan, Wilson Peak is officially reopened to public access. The price for Wilson Peak's 23 mining claims was dear - $3.25 million. Supporters raised $1.7 million and borrowed the rest to close the deal by Oct. 31. Tim Wohlgenant, the new state director for The Trust for Public Land, announced the settled deal in an interview for the Denver Post.

August 6, 2007: A $3 million deal has apparently been reached between the land owner and the TPL as reported in the Denver Post: ARTICLE
NOTE: This link may become inactive in the near future. The Silver Pick Access will be open once again to climbers in 2009 or 2010. Thanks to km donovan for posting the info in the Colorado forum.

July, 2007: TPL, the Trust for Public Land, is in active negotiations with the property owner to purchase the land affecting Wilson Peak, after which the land will be turned over to a manaing entity, probably the Forest Service. The property owner is actively negotiating and TPL is looking into potential environmental concerns that could affect the deal. In the meantime, Silver Pick access has been closed off entirely. More information can be found HERE.

April, 2007:
A private organization has offered to negotiate with the property owner concerning the possible purchase of Wilson Peak, to which the owner has been "very receptive." Details here. (NOTE: This link to the Telluride Daily Planet Website may be deactivated eventually). Thanks to SP member Scott Patterson for posting this information in the Colorado forum.

July 7, 2006:
A web site called Wilson Peak Access states the standard Southwest Ridge Route (Class 3) route is open and may be accessed with permission for a fee, half of which can be donated to "saving the Telluride Valley Floor." If you click on contact for more information, you'll be sending an email to wilsonpeakaccess@sbcglobal.net. The web site can be found here.

October 1, 2005: First hand accounts from CMC climbers attempting the new route reported the climb may be the hardest and most dangerous route on a fourteener. Loose rock was everywhere and extremely hazardous. They also eventually ended up on the southwest ridge route just west of the summit, which they also used to descend.

September 15, 2005: Some CMC members and an FS recreation manager checked out the proposed new route up Wilson Peak. The route crosses ugly and loose scree just before coming to the stop sign on the road, which is slow going. The route goes by a pond on a small bench and then intercepts Burro Trail. This trail winds around the east side of Silver Pick Basin due south-southeast into the bowl north/northwest of the summit. The group climbed an obvious, partially snow filled, rock chimney, moved to the left and then up a series of broad, rubble covered, benches. Continuing south, they gained the northwest ridge via one of several steeper couloirs north of the summit.

April 29, 2005: According to Mile High Mountaineer, a CMC publication, efforts to allow limited access to the SW ridge standard route were not successful and the land owner has not offered a favorable response.

November 22, 2004:
Private property concerns are announced, not only involving the difficult access issues of Wilson Peak, but Gladstone Peak and Lone Cone as well. Details can be found HERE.

Thanks to SP members Ellen Ritt and Kane Engelbert for providing information via the CMC, and to Kevin Donovan for his recent aid with information and adjustments to this page, as well as his contributions of a Northwest Route route description and trip report, which are highly recomended reading if you have Wilson Peak on your to-do list. Also, ongoing thanks are extended to SP member Scott Patterson who monitored the situation and kept this page's maintainer informed concerning breaking news events. Maps, suggestions and information contributed by SP members mtnhiker13, Kane, km donovan & nickd. Thanks everyone - it's appreciated!

INTERESTING TRIP REPORTS ABOUT CLIMBING WILSON PEAK DURING THE CLOSURE YEARS

2007 Winter Ascent by Jason Halladay

No Tresspass on Wilson Peak

A Locked Gate and a Good Decision

Getting There

SILVER PICK BASIN CURRENTLY CLOSED
If coming from the north or west, drive 6.7 miles east on Highway 145 from the junction of 145 and 62. If coming from Telluride, drive 6 miles west from the spur road leading into town from 145. Turn south on the Silver Pick road.

Stay left at 3.3 miles, take the middle of three roads at 4 miles, stay left at 6.5 miles, reach a gate at 7.7 miles. Just prior to the gate is a small parking area. The road is not particularly difficult, but it could be in wet conditions. High clearance is required, 4WD is recommended.

Stay on the road and avoid private property.

NAVAJO BASIN access: This approach provides acces to El Diente and Mount Wilson and Wilson Peak Start on FSR-535 which is 6 miles south of Lizard Head Pass on Hwy 145, identified by a large sign at the junction as Dunton. Follow the dirt road west 7 miles where a side road forks sharply to the right as FSR-535, which descends into the narrow gorge of West Dolores River. This short side road leads to the Navajo Lake Trailhead, where there is ample parking.

WOODS LAKE access: A recent alternative climbers have been using, including some SP members, is Woods Lake. This route climbs steadily for 2,000 feet before dropping 400 feet into Navajo Basin for a camp at Navajo lake. Take the Fall Creek exit due south from Highway 145 for 4 miles and take a right on a secondary road, reaching Woods Lake at approximately 8.7 miles. If you know specifics concerning conditions on getting to Woods Lake that you would like to contribute, it would be much appreciated! Add you comment in ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS and I'll see to it pronto! Thanks! -AJ

BILK BASIN access (courtesy of SP member dsnell): This approach provides acces to Wilson Peak's East Face options (technical and hazardous), as well as the standard Southwest Ridge Route from Bilk Basin. The trailhead is accessed by taking the South Fork Road, which runs along the South Fork of the San Miguel river to Camp Illium, a well marked tourist camp situated on the banks of the San Miguel. South Fork Road can be accessed by taking 145 West of Telluride for about five or so miles. Turn left off of 145 and follow South Fork Road for about three miles. Or, if you are driving in from the south (from Cortez or Dolores), South Fork Road can be accessed before you reach Telluride by turning west (left) at Ames (about 5 miles south of the Telluride turnoff) where South Fork Road enters the highway (on the other side of the highway is the turn off for Ophir).

Turn right at Camp Illium (or Left if you are coming from Ames), and cross the San Miguel river on a small bridge. Follow this road to Sunshine Mesa, where the road ends and the trail begins. The road ends two miles prior to the location indicated on the TOPO map. Landslides from Sunshine peak have obliterated portions of the road.

LIZARD HEAD TRAIL
This approach provides acces to Wilson Peak's standard Southwest Ridge route from Bilk Basin. From Telluride, drive south on Highway 145 over Lizard Head pass. A trailhead is here for one optional approach via Black Mountain. For a direct approach, continue south from the pass for two miles. Turn right on a dirt road signed for the Cross Mountain trailhead. Make an immediate left, cross a creek, and continue to the parking area.

A well defined trail leads to a junction. Turn right at a sign that says “Groundhog Stock Trail.” Continue up the trail for 3.6 miles to a pass between Cross Mountain (west), and Lizard Head (east). Descend from this saddle, losing 800 feet and proceed around Gladstone Peak, intercepting the Bilk Creek trail, and into Bilk Basin. Mileage to the abandoned cabin in Bilk Basin is 6.14 miles, with a gain of 3,563 feet (includes the regain of 800 feet on your return). For a description of the entire trail from the Bilk Creek trailhead, go here.

Route Options

Southwest Ridge Route

SOUTHWEST RIDGE ROUTE
THIS ROUTE IS NOW OPEN!
Class 3, exposed ridge scramble with a variety of approaches, recently closed/opened due to private property concerns. Shortest execution is from the currently closed Silver Pick Basin. Much longer, more lovely alternatives are Navajo Lake, Woods Lake and Bilk Basin approaches. Details are found here.

Bilk Basin

SOUTHWEST RIDGE BILK BASIN VARIATION
Beautiful summer climb, excellent snow climb, isolated and solitary. For details of the route, refer to SP member DSnell's route description in the ROUTES section.

Northwest Ridge Route

NORTHWEST RIDGE
SP member nickd has supplied this excellent EXCLUSIVE route to SummitPost and it is a great alternative to the standard route. This ridge route is rated Class 4 or 5, but if that is to your fancy, this route is definitely worth your time. Expect conditions typical to the Wilson Massif: loose rock, lots of air and a great, solitary climbing experience. According to nickd, leave the road at the gate to assume the northwest ridge. See here for details.

Northwest Face Route

NORTHWEST FACE ROUTES
Recommended as a snow climb in June, this route could be perilous due to steep snow and ice, changing conditions and plenty of rockfall. In dry conditions after the snow has melted, this route will be a nightmare of unstable rock. SP's route description is brief and to the point. See the trip report (No Tresspass on Wilson Peak) by km donovan.

Camping

NAVAJO LAKE
Backpack in to Navajo Lake where there are camping areas below and above the lake. No fees involved, but camping is not permitted at the lake.

KILPACKER BASIN
This trail is normally used to approach the South Slopes of El Diente or to climb Mount Wilson. There are some gorgeous camping spots in the stunning lower Kilpacker basin area, but these are not sensible locations for climbing Wilson Peak. Navajo Lake can be accessed via this route by adding a mile but less elevation gain.

BILK BASIN
Remote Bilk Basin would offer a number of fine alpine camp sites in a secluded area. Access to water and springs is ample.

LIZARD HEAD PASS
There are some great camping areas just south of Lizard Head Pass. These areas are not specifically marked. Look sharp for dirt roads on the east side of the highway starting at the pass and heading south. These roads meander among the trees and clearings and may require high clearance in places. Be sure to have plenty of your own water. Be prepared for bugs galore in the summer.

Limited camping, as well as pleasant fee camping is available along the Illium Road, which is accessed via exits along Highway 145 at the Ames Power station, across from the exit to Ophir Pass, and the Illium exit east of Telluride.

Nearby Trout Lake is a privately owned area and camping is not allowed on the road that circumvents the lake. The Matterhorn Camping area is a Forest Service fee site just north of Trout Lake.

Mountain Conditions

Cross marks plane wreckage on summit

Telluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather

GOES Western Satellite Image

A persistent snow slope near the base of the Southwest Ridge route may test your determination if you are not prepared. An ice axe, at the minimum, is highly recommended for a safe and expedient ascent of this snow field. Expect the snow to be hard ice later in the year, especially after a heavy winter.

Wreckage from a small plane crash on September 15, 2006 may be encountered, and may pose additional and unforseen hazards. The plane crashed near the summit area of the mountain. Clean up may not be completed for years and currently debris still remains on the summit. There have been recent reports of the debris gradually being cleaned up.

For the summer and fall, expect lots of loose rock, for which the Wilson Massif is notorious for. Fall glazings of sleet, snow and ice will increase slip and rockfall possibilities on this mountain. In the winter, expect severe conditions at any time. Avalanche potential is certain and immediate after normal or heavy snowfall events. Use your informed judgment before proceeding and climb safe!

Climbing Wilson Peak

BEGINNERS: July through September are the best time to attempt Wilson Peak, for optimal dry conditions. Be advised that the San Juan monsoon typically does routine afternoon thunder dumps on these mountains, which can easily make conditions treacherous. Lightning loves these mountains. Do not attempt these routes in questionable weather. The monsoon usually calms down the latter half of September and your chances for success improve. Snow will persist on the mountain well into the summer. At the minimum, an ice axe and knowledge in using it is recommended.

EXPERIENCED: Snow climbs have been done during the winter and spring, according to the current spate of route books available. An excellent resource is Robert F. Rosebrough's "The San Juan Mountains: A Climbing and Hiking Guide." See the ROUTE OPTIONS SECTION on this page for additional information. For optimal dry conditions, late summer and fall work best.

Do not attempt this mountain after a fresh snow in the fall, or immediately after a considerable hail or ice storm unless you are competent in your ability to deal with the dangerous conditions that will develop on these routes.

Miscellaneous Info

Lizard Head, Mount Wilson, El Diente and Wilson Peak rule the horizon in the fall from Mendota Peak
Photo by SP member nickd

Wilson Peak and Mt. Wilson were both named after Allen D. Wilson. This intrepid individual was a member of the Hayden Survey, a contracted effort by the government back in the 1800s to triangulate locales and map the great American West. Wilson climbed many Colorado mountains, some no doubt for the first time. His efforts were apparently commemorated with his name on not one, but two fourteeners. His boss, F.V. Hayden, also has two San Juan Peaks named in his honor. In this case, the early birds get the worms! These mountains were claimed by these gentlemen long before the naming rules were in place. Whether this was their own doing to satisfy egos, or an act of recognition by someone else remains speculative.

Noted by SP member hgrapid:
In many Coors Beer commercials, Wilson Peak is featured. This mountain is a model of natural perfection with its trianglular shape, and hence its usage in the commercials.

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