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Golden Horn
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Golden Horn 

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.80500°N / 107.824°W

Elevation: 13780 ft / 4200 m

 

Page By: Aaron Johnson

Created/Edited: Oct 24, 2002 / Nov 4, 2008

Object ID: 151304

Hits: 5182 

Page Score: 90.85% - 35 Votes 

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Overview

Golden Horn! The name is as exciting as its appearance from Highway 550 just north of Silverton. A sharp, pointed spire rising abruptly toward the San Juan sky, tucked away from civilization, 13,780 foot Golden Horn strikes awe into mountain lovers, and fear into the uninitiated. From the valley below, Golden Horn looks incredible.

Golden Horn is the centerpiece of the IceLake Basin group of mountains. Though not the highest peak, it is the most picturesque in the area. This place is one of the most beautiful in Colorado, if not on the planet. Abundant lakes and streams provide a major water source. Spring and summer's abundant display of wildflowers is overwhelming. Guarded by jagged peaks on three sides, lower and upper Ice Lake Basins are a mountain lover's ultimate paradise. Special sections on this page are devoted to the basins, through which you pass to climb Golden Horn.

Golden Horn is a Class 2+ mountain, despite its appearance. It is a pleasant climb through one of the most beautiful places anywhere, and a fun scramble on the ridge to the summit, among the most dramatic in Colorado. When you visit this area, take time to soak in it and enjoy this mountain majesty, which is the San Juan at its very best. Bring your camera and lots of film or megapixels!

A 1932 CMC summer outing was the first deliberate exploration of the peaks surrounding Ice Lake Basin. However their ascent of Golden Horn was not the first. A four member party of students from the Michigan School of Mines had climbed the mountain a month earlier on July 7.

Getting There

Half of the fun of going anywhere in the San Juans is the ride, which is always spectacular. To get to Ice Lake Basin, where Golden Horn is located, drive over Red Mountain Pass from Ouray on the scenic Highway 550. Measure from the top of the pass 7.8 miles. If approaching from Silverton, measure from the junction of Colorado 110 and 550 south of town and go west 2 miles on 550. A National Forest access sign for Mineral Creek Road is the turn-out you are seeking on the south side of the highway.

Go west on this road, San Juan County 7, 4 miles, bypassing camps along the way. For the lower Ice Lake Basin trailhead (where there is ample parking), keep left, staying on the main road. For the higher alternate trailhead, turn right onto the Clear Lake road (high clearance suggested). This road gains access to an unmarked trail further up that joins the main route. Distance is about the same to Ice Lake Basin from either starting point, but there is less altitude to be gained from the alternate trailhead. Keep in mind that parking is very limited at the higher trailhead.

Almost ½ a mile beyond the Clear Lake road, Mineral Creek Road crosses Clear Creek. If you cross the creek (a large culvert is under the road), you've gone too far. The Ice Lake Basin trail starts just before the crossing. Park in the large parking area.

When To Climb

Dramatic view of the Wilson Massif from the summit of Golden Horn

Photo by Aaron Johnson

July through September offers optimal dry conditions, plus the flowers will be out! San Juan falls are spectacular, so this would make a great fall hike as well.

Ice Lake Basin is a massive snow shed. The lower basin melts out first, while the upper basin retains great amounts of snow well into July in normal to heavy years of snowpack. The upper basin is routinely buried through June. Skis or snow shoes may be necessary. Ascending Golden Horn would not require any special gear, although an ice axe is a good idea for the saddle approach and the mountain itself. Avalanche danger is a constant concern.

Do not attempt in questionable weather. Running from a San Juan thunderstorm across the vast expanse of Ice Lake Basin is something you do not want to experience. Approach with caution in the winter as well. Retreat into the lower basin in white out conditions could be a real adventure. Be mindful of the weather, which generally travels west to east, and know that in most cases, you won't see it coming since the mountains block your western view. A common San Juan trap is to climb a steep mountain, only to discover a black thunderhead on the other side just waiting for you to show up.

Red Tape

Ice Lake Basin is an unprotected area of the Uncompahgre National Forest, although many people think it should be. Yet, it has all the characteristics of a premiere wilderness area, so observe all wilderness protocols. Ice Lake Basin is a major watershed. Please guard the water quality and camp as far as feasible from water sources, observing wilderness camping protocols.

Camping

Camping possibilities are endless. Camping near the trailhead on the west side of Clear Creek, south of the road, is very good. Mineral Creek Campground, a fee site, is nice for vehicles and RVs. There is plenty of free camping as well throughout the Mineral Creek drainage.

For backpacking enthusiasts, camping in lower Ice Lake Basin is exemplary, particularly on the west side near some gorgeous and unusual waterfalls (see lower Ice Lake Basin section). Alpine camping in upper Ice Lake Basin is among the best in the San Juans. This is a high alpine environment. Severe weather can turn a glorious campsite into a nightmarish experience. Take appropriate gear and tent suitable for alpine use, or be prepared to retreat to the lower basin.

The higher you can manage to camp, the more time you will have to explore this vast wilderness and take your time on the peak.

Mountain Conditions

Telluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather

GOES Western Satellite Image


Uncompahgre National Forest

2250 Hwy 50
Delta, Co. 81416
970-874-6600


San Juan National Forest

15 Bunett Ct.
Durango, Co. 81301
970-247-484
970-385-1243 FAX

COLORADO STATE PATROL ROAD CONDITIONS STATEWIDE
303-639-1111

Miscellaneous Info & Other Attractions

A side trip to Island Lake, in a secluded basin just northeast of Ice Lake Basin is highly recommended.

A short hike to Mineral Creek Falls is definitely worth your time. From the trailhead, walk the road west over Clear Creek. Leave the road, heading south along the west bank of Clear Creek. In a short distance, you'll come to a grotto that Mineral Creek runs through. With some exploration and careful footwork, you can get down to the river. A series of gorgeous waterfalls are there waiting to be discovered by you. The clear water and colorful rock will have your camera working overtime. Bring lots of film or card space for this short hike, and take time to linger and refresh your soul! What an awesome place!

If you have 4WD, a short side trip up Clear Lake road is worth your time. Take your camera and lots of film or card space. The lake is big and deep, the flowers are stunning, and the peaks will be calling your name. SP member Nader has submitted a nearby climb with awesome views of this area. Check out Point 13,309.

South Lookout Peak is a short and very tricky climb from here. To attain the true summit, rope work would be required, but going as far as you are comfortable will be reward enough. Do not climb in this area or attempt this steep road in very wet conditions or bad weather unless you have lots of 4WD experience.

Access to peaks south of Ice Lake Basin can also be attained by driving further up the Mineral Creek road.

Supplies are readily attained in Silverton, which has many fine shops to suit your needs. Most restaurants in Silverton are excellent and you are urged to try them all. You won't be disappointed.

The 2003 schedule is posted on the Durango-Narrow Gauge train website. This would be a fun alternative mode of transportation to the area. If you've never seen a narrow gauge train in action, take a few minutes to do so. You'll think it's 1870 all over again and start looking for your six shooter!

DURANGO-SILVERTON NARROW GUAGE TRAIN SCHEDULE

Arrival Times for Silverton May-October 2003
11:45 and 12:30
Arrival Times for Silverton June-August 2003
1:15 and 11:00

Durango-Silverton Train Schedule

Lower Ice Lake Basin

This lush, secluded basin is paradise on earth. In normal precipitation years, the basin is usually soggy through July, but dry spots for camping can be found on the perimeter. A proliferation of wildflowers rule here, and wildlife is common. Marmots are used to people and are brave, so be wary of these critters. Water falls from everywhere. A unique angular fall (see the pictures) will amaze you. Enjoy the solitude and silence, and seize the opportunity to cherish the experience of this special place.

Be sure to view the photos below in a large format!

Upper Ice Lake Basin

Massive Ice Lake Basin is cradled by rugged mountains, Golden Horn front and right of center, seen from the east

Photo by Nader Messongtag

Massive and spectacular, Ice Lake Basin is one of Colorado's largest watersheds. It is a primary source for the Animas River that runs south from Silverton. After a heavy winter, snow rarely melts off before mid July. Three large lakes, six smaller lakes and countless tarns await your arrival. The nooks and crannies of sub basins, benches, and rocky wastelands all await your exploration. The highest and largest body of water is Fuller Lake at the south end of the basin. A short climb to the ridge above Fuller Lake to the south affords you a magnificent vista. If bad weather is approaching, this is a quick alternative you might consider before bailing out.

THE MOUNTAINS OF ICE LAKE BASIN
Some routes on these mountains are complex, potentially dangerous and loose, requiring experience, technical gear and the ability to use it effectively. Consult the climbing guides by Gerry Roach and Robert F. Rosebrough concerning the climbs of these challenging peaks.

Pilot Knob
This challenging mountain requires technical gear and sports an airy ridge traverse an optional 150 rappel.

Vermilion Peak
This mountain can be climbed several ways and offers a host of interesting routes.

Ulysses S. Grant Peak
A challenging peak with cliff bands and chimneys to negotiate. Be sure to check all resources available before executing any of these routes.

Fuller Peak
An easy but loose scramble to a viewpoint sure to stir your soul!

2007 SP Summer Gathering

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Once each summer and winter, Colorado SP members gather to climb one of Colorado's great mountains. The event is usually organized by Alan Ellis, but in 2007 the duty fell to his fellow junior member Aaron Johnson. Originally, the mountains to be climbed were Grand Turk and The Sultan, south of Silverton, but campsite improvements shut down the desired access to those peaks. Thus Golden Horn, by almost unanimous opinion, was suggested and climbed instead.

This section features a few photos from this highly successful event. To see a collection of very good photos from this event, see the 2007 SP Summer Gathering Album.

External Links

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