Tsergo Ri, also known as Cherko or Tserko Ri, is a comperatively small, rocky peak in the Langtang Himal, about 10 kilometers southeast of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters) the highest peak in the area. While not being a mountain of any real prominence or particular beauty it is conveniently easy to climb and from its summit a magnificent view can be had.

Langtang Lirung with its giant south face is close to the west. To the north and northeast other peaks of the Langtang Himal likeTsangbu Ri (6760meters) and Dragpoche (6562 meters) rise in white splendour while Langshisha Ri (6145 meters) lies due east. To the south and southeast are some of the peaks of the Jugal Himal among them Dorje Lapka (6973 meters), after L�npo Gang (7080 meters) the second highest peak of this section of the Great Himalayan Range.

Other mountains to behold include the popular Trekking Peak Naya Kanga (5846 meters), Urgyenmag (6151 meters) and one of the most beautiful peaks of Central Nepal, Gangchengpo (6387 meters). Some say, Shisha Pangma (8027 meters) might be seen to the north, a statement I cannot confirm, cause it was quite cloudy on our summit day.

Gangchengpo�s north face with the characteristic avalanche chutes that inspired Tilman to call it "The Fluted Peak". Photo by Bill Schaefer.

The Langtang Himal, lying to the north of Kathmadu and being readily accesible from there, is a complex range, its western border defined by the Bhote Kosi (later on now as the Trisuli), beyond which rises the Ganesh Himal. To the east it is connected to the Jugal Himal, to the northeast to the big massive of Shisha Pangma, while to the immediate north the Lende Tsangpo forms the natural border to Tibet.

Contrary to the ascents on other popular mountains in the area such as Yala (5520 meters) or Naya Kanga, Tsergo Ri isn�t glaciated and can be climbed without the use of rope and ice- equipment from Kyanjing Gompa, the highest village in the Langtang Valley. In fact I would rate it an easy scramble (UIAA I), but no one should underestimate the height- good acclimatization is a must.

On some maps and in some guide books the height of the mountain is given as 5033 meters but this is in fact another peak, Tsergo Ri East, which is not the one normally climbed as Tsergo Ri proper. Who made the first ascent has not been officially recorded (at least not to my knowledge).

Getting There

There are several options to get to the Langtang Valley.

The most straightforward one is taking a bus from Kathmandu to Syabrubensi, which is a village at the junction of the Langtang Khola and the Bhote Kosi. Buses leave from the new bus terminal on the Kathmandu ringroad, N-NW of Thamel at 6:30 and 7:00 in the morning. Tickets cost 200 NRP one way. The trip takes most of the day but is broken by a lunchstop along the way. Sometimes it is a good idea to buy the tickets the day before / in advance. From Syabrubensi it is a trek of three days to Kyanjing Gompa.

The other alternatives are entering the Langtang Valley from the south via any of three passes. The initial stages, starting at Sundarijal (reached by a short taxi ride from Kathmandu) are much the same for any of them and will lead through the district of Helambu, which is interesting both culturally and landscapewise.

A chorten at Langtang Village. Kyanjing Gompa and Tsergo Ri are several hours walk from here. Photo by Nelson Chenkin.

The first pass, Laurebina La (4609 meters) leading over the Gosaikund Lekh, connecting Helambu with the Bhote Kosi Valley is open by beginning of April (though you still have to reckon with snow up to your hips) and will eventually bring you down to the lower reaches of the Langtang Khola in 5-7 days. Under the western side of the pass the sacred lakes of Gosainkund are to be found. They are said to have been generated by Shiva himself who poked his trident into the ground in order to find water to quench his thirst. The lakes are visited by thousands of Hindu pilgrims each year during the monsoon.

Another pass is the Ganja La (5122 meters) which is the most direct approach from Helambu to Kyanjing Gompa, requiring 5-6 day. It�s a more difficult pass and might not be open until the beginning of June.

The last alternative is Tilman�s Pass (5320 meters). Being a glacier pass between the famous peaks of Urkgyenmang and Gangchenpo, it is only suitable for an experienced party and leads from Helambu to the upper Langtang Valley in 6-8 days.

Red Tape

Climbing Tsergo Ri requiers no permits as it is not officially rated as a �Trekking Peak�. Trekking permits for the area have been dealt away with and all that remains is a 1000 NPR (~15$) fee for entering the Langtang National Park. You can obtain this National Park permit in Kathmandu or at the first National Park checkpost you encounter (i.e. Dhunche, etc.) . If coming from the south via Helambu through the Shivapuri Water Reserve area just north of Kathmandu, you need to pay for another permit.

Apparently Maoists are an issue in the area. While they don�t seem to be active in the Langtang Valley itself, they might be met with in Helambu through which you pass on way to Laurebina La. If encountered they seem to demand a "donation" of approximately 10$.

When To Climb

Climbing in the Nepal Himalaya which is subject to the monsoon is usually done either in the pre- monsoon period from March to May (skies may be hazy and passes still under snow) or in the post monsoon period from September to November (skies are clear, but nights can get very cold).

However Tsergo Ri with its modest 4986 meters might be climbed year around by those willing to cope with persistent rain in summer and with cold and mild but nonetheless possible avalanche danger in winter.

Camping

There are a lot of homestays in the Langtang as far upvalley as Kyanjing Gompa. Once away from that place, camping becomes a necessity and beautiful spots for a camp site are legion.

Camping in the lower and middle sections of the valley is possible, but good spots are scarce due to the steepness of the terrain and the more or less dense habition in those places that are not. We made the whole Langtang a camping trek but in one place had to pitch the tent on the local dungheap and were induced to pay a fee for that!

The Tsergo Ri Slope Failure

In 2002 a geological paper in the Journal of Asian Earth Sciences (by Weidinger et al.) postulated that todays peaks Tsergo Ri (5033meters) and Yala (5820 meters), neighbours of Langtang Lirung, are just the remains of the once 15th 8000 meter+ peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The collapsing of this mountain, presumably triggered by an earthquake, has been the largest landslide yet known to mankind. The phenomenon found its way into literature as the "Tsergo Ri Slope Failure".

Weidinger et al.

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