OverviewLocated on the east side of beautiful Zion National Park, Mountain of the Sun is one of the high, majestic peaks lying along the rim of Zion Canyon. Like its neighbors, The Great White Throne, Red Arch Mountain, Twin Brothers, The West Temple, Bridge Mountain, The Watchman, The East Temple, The Sentinel, Lady Mountain, and The Three Patriarchs, to name only a few, this big-walled, imposing bad boy is begging for attention. C’mon, it’s name alone sounds cool and should make you want to climb it.
Zion is heaven for the big wall climber. The park’s first big wall ascent was of the northwest face of the legendary Great White Throne. When Fred Beckey, Galen Rowell and Pat Callis pulled it off on May 5-7, 1967, this landmark climb opened the door for major exploration of the park’s mighty faces.
Years later, in 1994, Paul Turecki and John Middendorf put up ‘The Tao of Light’ (VI, 5.10, A3, 17 pitches), the first ascent of the big west face of Mountain of the Sun. Their line essentially followed the southwest corner of the mountain. Two years later, Warren Hollinger and Cameron Burns pulled off ‘Eye Shadow’ (VI, 5.9, A2+, 16 pitches with 200-foot ropes), another big wall route on the west face, which ran to the left of ‘The Tao of Light’. Incidentally, these are also the only two big wall routes that reach the summit of the mountain.
A number of short technical routes can also be found near the western base of the mountain. It’s not without good reason that Mountain of the Sun is the objective of many.
Though technical routes are in abundance on Mountain of the Sun (or MOS, as it’s also referred to), there also exists, to my knowledge, a single non-technical route up the mountain. I’m no Superman or adrenaline junkie, but I did have the pleasure of doing the non-technical route, which ascends the peak from its east side above the locally named Employee Canyon (aka Lodge Canyon). It was supremely enjoyable (and obnoxiously aesthetic) – as are most backcountry destinations in Zion.
With nice exposure, breathtaking views, solitude, and great history, this peak, and this park, should be immediately scratched onto your to-do list.
*You might also check out my outdoor site (www.zionsummits.com), which provides access to trip reports, beta, photos and other stuff covering hiking, scrambling, climbing and canyoneering in Zion, Death Valley and Grand Canyon National Parks.
Getting ThereFrom I-15 in St. George (southern Utah), follow prominent signage toward Zion National Park. The signage will ultimately lead you to highway 9 and through the town of Hurricane. Continuing on highway 9 and passing through the towns of La Verkin and Springdale, you will soon find yourself at the entrance to Zion National Park. Yee haw! Fork over your $20, or show em your ‘lemme-in-free’ card, and proceed.
Following highway 9 inside the park, you will soon come to a junction. At the junction, highway 9 continues straight ahead toward the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel, and a side road heads off to the left toward the Zion Lodge and a host of Zion goodies. (*note – This left-turning road leading toward the lodge is what you would use to approach and climb any of the aforementioned technical routes on the mountain’s west face. Although this road is open to cars in winter, the rest of the year it is open only to shuttles and to those staying at the Lodge. If you need to use the shuttle service, you can pick it up at the visitor’s center, which is just inside the park and to the right of the entrance station that you just went through.)
From highway 9 just before the junction, you will be able to see MOS in the distance, though you may not know what it is at the time.
Since I have no personal experience on any of MOS’ west face routes, I’ll describe how to get to the start of the approach for the non-technical route up the backside…
Continuing on highway 9, you will encounter many switchbacks that will soon lead you to and through the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel. Once through the tunnel, continue for ¼ mile (or less) and look for a lawful parking spot somewhere along the road. Alternatively, you can park in the parking lot on the east side of the tunnel and then just walk that ¼ mile or so to the east. What you’re looking for, ultimately, is Upper Pine Creek Canyon, the second canyon east of the tunnel on the north side of the road. Consider this the beginning.
Red TapeNo permits or fees are required to hike the non-technical route up the mountain’s east side. To my knowledge, permits are only required for climbs of a multi-day nature. Inquire at the ranger station, or call the number below, to be sure.
Additionally, a descent of the mountain via a thru-hike of Employee Canyon (described in slightly more detail in the route section) requires a permit. Again, inquire at the ranger station for more info.
When To ClimbTypically, May to October is the optimal time, though summers can be hot. During the intervening months, snow and ice can make the going challenging and quite dangerous.
CampingThere are many nice campgrounds in and around the park. Too many to name, actually.
Backcountry camping is also allowed inside the park, with a permit. Bivying on the big walls most certainly requires a permit. Contact the park for more information.
Mountain ConditionsThe weather for nearby St. George, UT.
You can also contact the ranger station (435-772-0170) if you want more info.
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