A group of taller towers east of the Türkenkopf. It offers some longer, varied routes and fine views from its summit.

Here is a basic idea of the area's location and the main climbing regions.

Maps for each specific region can be found in the climbing guides,can be bought locally or ordered.

Getting There

You usually arrive to the area through Dresden. You can easily reach Dresden city by car, plane or rail. From Dresden, you can travel by train or steamboat up the Elbe (SE) or by car on B172. A S-bahn (local commuter) train leaves Dresden about every 1/2 hour. The train travels up the left hand river side (when looking down stream). From there you have to use a ferry to cross the Elbe at Rathen. Car travel into the town and climbing areas is restricted. Traffic is often very heavy, especially during vacation times and on the weekends. Expect to hike to the climb you chose. Trails are well marked.

For train schedules see: German Railways (This link works for most of Europe, by the way. At this page you can select English, French or Italian, before going on to the timetables. )

The Kleine Gans towers lie NW of Rathen and directly NE across the Whelgrund from the Bsstei. There is a hiking trail leading directly to it.

Red Tape

The sandstone here is extremely soft. The passage of thousands of climbers has unfortunately left its mark as footsteps and rope drag marks engraved into the rock. Erosion of the sandy slopes has contributed to the damage. Some of the towers are collapsing, despite such efforts as bolting and wrapping metal bands around them! As such, some of the classic towers are now off limits to climbers. Routes and summits are constantly reevaluated for closures as are summits in areas deemed fragile in terms of plant and animal life. Trails must be followed and cross-country travel is discouraged (and really not necessary).

For an update to closures, go to the section on "Sperrungen": Climb Closures Closures also happen during critical bird nesting times.

There are restrictions on climbing equipment. No metal protection other than the rings already present may be used. The permanent rings are often very far apart. If intermediate protection is desired, creating sling knots, threading sling through holes in the rock (Sanduhr) or looping a sling around rocks is allowed. Given that the rock is so soft, I don't think any of this would really hold. As a family friend explained to me once- if you fall, then you overestimated your abilities and you shouldn't have been there in the first place! Chalk or any other chemical is forbidden.

Rope wear in soft rock

In most areas, you may not climb when the rock is wet.

The locals take these ordinances very seriously. Considering the damage that is everywhere apparent, every effort should be made to make your passage as low impact as possible.

You do not need to register or anything.

Accommodations

The climber's hut near Rathen

Rathen and the surrounding villages offer hotels and vacation homes to rent. The local climbing club maintains a hut only 20 minutes walk north from the village. Camping is allowed in designated places.

Vorderer Gansfels

The eastern main summit of the Kleine Gans Group

Route: Guehnekamin

On the beginning pitch of the Gühne Kamin

In the Gühne Kamin (chimney)

UIAA III (about 5.4) First ascent Arthur Guehne and J Duemler, 9 Jun 1895. Go up the narrow chimney that goes through the entire narrow SE face. At a height of 18m, traverse right along a crack, up a rough face and through a final steep chimney to the summit. Descend via the Hartmann Route (UIAA 1 - 4th class.) down the west and south sides. About 4 or 5 pitches, if memory serves me correctly.

At the top of the Chimney

Descending the Hartmann Route