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| West Route   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 48.51920°N / 120.6166°W Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS) Grade: I
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| Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni Created/Edited: Mar 27, 2005 / Oct 1, 2007 Object ID: 164452 Hits: 847 Loading... Page Score: 86.21% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview Big Kangaroo from the west.
The West Route on Big Kangaroo involves a very long steep approach with over 3,000 feet of vertical to a very short climb of three short pitches - perhaps in the range of 150 feet of actual climbing.
Were I to do it again, I would certainly do it in the spring with skis so as to enjoy the long descent back to the hairpin.
Approach  Big Kangaroo from the west late season.  Big Kangaroo from the west early season.
With no snow, approach as per the description on the main page.
With plenty of snow, one can ascend more or less directly from the hairpin curve to the base of the rock, keeping in mind the potential for avalanche.
Route DescriptionAscend the gully to the base of the main summit block then take the left branch to the base of the rock. A short pitch on rotten rock (marginally Class 5) leads to the crest just to the north of the summit pinnacle.
A short traverse (exposed and on small holds - well protected) across the west face of the summit pinnacle leads to a belay ledge on the southwest corner of the pinnacle.
The last lead to the summit follows the south edge of the pinnacle to the tiny summit. This is almost impossible to protect and involves small holds and friction, but it is very short.
Essential GearA small rack and a 50 m. rope.
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