Approach
This climb is located on the W face of Trashcan Rock, the large formation at the Quail Springs picnic area. To get to the Quail Springs picnic area:
a) From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park: drive 2.6 (?) miles (a sign marking the turn is obvious). Take a R.
b) from the turnout to the Hidden Valley campground: go 3 miles towards Joshua Tree (the town). Take a L.
Go past the first set of parking spots around the curve to those by the outhouse. Park here. This is the W face of Trashcan Rock.
Route Description
This enjoyable route can be reached by either a L-hand or R-hand variation. The L-hand side is a short crack system, while the R is a lieback.
The crux of the climb is the crossover from either the L-hand or R-hand variation. The difficulty from either side is approximately the same: 5.4 face climbing. The R-rating also comes from this, as until the crack system leading upwards is gained (immediately past this crux- about 15 ft above ground), there is no protection available- think of it like a high boulder problem to gain the route. Once in the crack, just follow it upwards. You will run right into a ramp leading to the R. This ramp is easy but very exposed.
Walk off Trashcan Rock- head down towards the end of the rock across from the outhouse. This entails 4th class downclimbing.
Essential Gear
Some nuts & a few small to medium sized cams for the lower crack, & a large piece or two (2.5- 3") for the ramp section leading to the top of the climb. Large amounts of webbing/accessory cord can be used in conjunction with some locking 'biners to construct an anchor/rappel station by slinging gaps underneath a large boulder at the top of Trashcan Rock
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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U.S. National Parks
