SummitPost - Longs Loft Route - updated September 2006 -- Trip Reports

Colorado's Longs Peak offers more than one hundred routes to the summit but most people take the Keyhole Route.

If you want an alternative that is less crowded, slightly shorter by mileage, longer by time and more difficult actually climbing then the Loft Route is for you. I most recently climbed it in August,2006.

This route, like all the others on Longs can be dangerous year-round. On September 3, 2006 a climber died while descending from the top of the couloir. Apparently he was a victim of rock fall from the cliffs at the top of the couloir. Here is a link to an eyewitness report. My sincere condolences to the climber's family.

The Loft route follows the couloir between Mt. Meeker, 13,700' and Longs. The trail in the Summer

It is a class 3 climb thus requiring scrambling using your hands for balance. Normally ropes are not used but could be useful for novice climbers especially on the down climb from the Loft proper on the northwest side. I use it as a training climb in the winter months since it is full of snow and steep - a great workout. But I rarely get to the top due to high winds, avalanche danger or other risky conditions so always be careful.

There are four parts to the day: 1) trailhead to just below Chasm lake, 2) Meekers couloir and the Loft 3) the downclimb (looking for Clark's Arrow) and traverse to the homestretch then up to the summit and 4) back down. The first part is simple enough: beautiful trail through the pine forest rising above the tree line at 10,500'. You will see the trail going left to right high above the treeline. If it is windy, this will be your first test of Longs. After about two hours you should arrive at the junction signs pointing the way to the boulder field (to the right) and to Chasm Lake (left).

Meeker Couliar

Take the left trail down about 100'. Make sure you enjoy the views of Peacock Lake on your left and the Diamond straight ahead. Soon you arrive at the rebuilt ranger's cabin that replaced the old one that was destroyed in Spring 2003 by an avalanche from the couloir you are about to climb! This a reminder that this route is extremely difficult and dangerous in the winter.

Now the fun begins. From the Ranger's cabin, follow the trail on the right side (north) of the rising ravine. You soon turn due west as you head straight up this couloir. The trail meanders amongst the sofa size rocks and soon begins a lazy switchback pattern to the rock ledges just below running water or a frozen waterfall, depending on the season. In the winter, take any route up the couloir but be aware of avalanche dangers. It may seem like a long and tedious climb up the couloir - and it is! But maintain a steady pace and you will be surprised how soon you are near the top.

The next challenge is to find the exit ramp off the couloir and to the Loft. About 90% of the way to the top, look to the left (South)for a rock ledge ramp. It is easy to see from the Chasm Lake junction but can be hard to find up close. You will have to do some class 3 scrambling on big rocks to see the ramp. It goes straight left towards Meeker and is about two feet wide. Do not climb straight up the cliffs. This is serious climbing with rock fall danger. Also do not downclimb the cliffs without proper protection and skills - even then it is very dangerous. If you find yourself still scrambling once off the main couloir, you are not on route. The ramp, while a little narrow, is relatively flat and you should be able to walk easily. Once to the end of this ramp, it is an easy and obvious switchback path to the Loft, the main saddle between Meeker and Longs. It should take about an hour or two make the climb from the junction sign. Click on the couloir picture above for a diagram of the route.

Robert and Lee climbing Meekers Coulair

The Loft is an area the size of two football fields and just as flat. You are about to tackle the crux of the Loft route. In the summer there are cairns with huge white quartz rocks marking the route. Head northwest to the corner. If it looks like you are heading towards a cliff, you are on the correct path! There are several gullies that can be downclimbed - some easy, some not. A lot of people end up at the most northern gully. Look for a rough and rugged rock filled gully going down. While it looks hard, most people can make this down climb of 100 feet. This one has several five to seven foot drops that require some stressful moves and leaps of faith! For very inexperienced climbers, they will need an experience partner to help on a few big moves but experienced climbers will make the down climb in 15 minutes.

The "normal" route from the Loft is another gully to the south of the one I described that takes you to the infamous "Clark's Arrow" - an arrow painted on a west-facing rock, pointing south. Most people never find it and it is really visible only once you reach it! But the theory is to follow the carins to the northwest edge, then take the "gully" down.

Regardless of how you descend, don't go all the way to the valley floor but take a right about 2/3rds down looking for the trail that goes underneath a rock wall aptly named the Palisades. You are through the tough part and now need to continue North toward Longs as far as you can. There is a fairly well worn and carined trail for this section but it can be hard to find so always spot the next carin as you progress north. It will be obvious when it is time to turn left, west, up the boulder filled slope to join the final section on the Keyhole route or the Homestretch. On a summer weekend, you will see many people on the Homestretch. Hug the wall on your left as you climb these smooth rock slabs. And then ...

You are on the summit! Congratulations, you have summited Longs Peak, the highest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park by a route few people take. It may take as much as six hours to reach the summit using the Loft route.
Looking West from the Summit

Take some time and enjoy the view. Don't forget to sign the log. It is in a plastic tube between two big rocks near the East side of the summit. There are usually people standing around it. Make sure you eat and drink since it is likely you have not had enough of either to this point. Now you have a decision: return the same route of via the keyhole. Either way, you have 4 to 6 hours of downclimbing and trails ahead. Remember to get off the summit by noon or at any approaching thunderheads. Many people are killed by lightning than falling on Longs.

Returning via the Loft route involves some interesting climbing back up to the Loft. While not hard, it can be challenging for some inexperienced climbers. And you might find Clark's Arrow this time! If everyone is tired, I would suggest the keyhole route. It is a little easier but a little longer.

The Keyhole is clearly the most popular given it is well marked. But the Loft offers more challenging climbing, steeper terrain, more ups and down and just as stunning views. The weather can be difficult, especially in the couloir between Longs and Meeker. The wind is the biggest problem on any route up Longs but especially so in this narrow steep valley.

If you have climbed the Keyhole for years, try the Loft one day. But, please, be careful.

Comments

No comments posted yet.