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Mt Huntington

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Mt Huntington
May 29th, 2006 - Mt Huntington seen from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. This gigantic face rises 5,000 ft above the gorge where it is only 1 mile wide!

This NE face has only been climbed once due to the objective danger of the numerous seracs, and avalanches of the face sweep completely across the gorge, so when storms move into the area, passage out of the gorge is highly dangerous (see below discussion on the ascent).


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Hasn't voted

Hey, what happened on your trip?
Posted Jun 11, 2006 6:51 pm

PellucidWombatRe: TR?


Hasn't voted

Hey, the weather was unfavorable for safe climbing conditions, so we were never able to get off the glacier - trip report will be posted soon. It was a bit of a bummer, but I still learned a lot, found some great partners, and I'm very familiar in how to plan such a trip again in the future.

BTW, thanks for sending the TR and photos from Liberty Ridge - it sounded like quite an epic. I'm glad you got out all right.
Posted Jun 11, 2006 6:55 pm

tphubbardGood pic


Voted 10/10

You can kind of understand why no one has bothered to try to climb it!
Posted Aug 27, 2006 10:59 pm

Mark DoswaldAwsome

Mark Doswald

Hasn't voted

It kind of looks like K2, the rupal face side.
Posted Feb 1, 2008 11:11 pm

gav pUnclimbed?

Hasn't voted

This face was climbed in 1978 (Timeless Face VI 5.9 WI5, McCartney-Roberts). Simon McCartney and Jack Roberts survived five epic days of objective danger and near death experience to arrive at the summit, before taking a further five to get descend and reach their base camp, each 25lbs lighter from the experience. Their route pretty much goes up the centre of the wall, and remains unrepeated. See Alpinist 20 for info.
Posted May 26, 2008 2:56 pm

peladobotonRe: Unclimbed?


Voted 10/10

yeah, great issue and excellant article. the book entitled "Mountain of My Fears" also has a gnarly depiction of climbing that monster.
Posted Sep 10, 2009 5:28 pm



Voted 10/10

I will now wipe up my pile of drool. Sweet shot!
Posted Jun 9, 2009 11:09 pm

peladobotonbeen there...


Voted 10/10

i have almost the same exact photo that i took from the little knoll on the southwest side of 11,000...i just sat and drooled at Huntingtion for an hour...what a peak!!!
Posted Sep 10, 2009 5:27 pm

Bluecube22MT Hunnington


Voted 10/10

Incredible! I'm planing a trip this summer 2011 any info would be of help we are thinking about leaving in June to attempt the French ridge Route last climbed in 1964.
Posted Mar 7, 2011 2:03 am

PellucidWombatRe: MT Hunnington


Hasn't voted

About all I could be good for on this one is the logistics and details of getting to the mountain. But it definitely is a peak I'd love to do someday!

Best of luck on your climb, and if you have any questions about getting there or of the area in general, PM or e-mail me and I can probably answer some questions.


Posted Mar 7, 2011 1:24 pm

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Image Data
PellucidWombatSubmitted by PellucidWombat
on Jun 11, 2006 5:30 pm

Image ID: 199675
Hits: 15690 
Object Title: Mt Huntington

Image Type(s): Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Scenery