benhil - Mar 29, 2024 6:59 am Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2023
Point Maragerita Mount Stanley
Fantastic wild appraoch and climb. My most beautiful climb ever
Jurgen Matata - Jan 4, 2020 3:47 am Date Climbed: Dec 17, 2019
Margherita & Alexandra
A dream ascent on day 6 from Kilembe with Jack & Hunnington of Rwenzori Trekking Services. There was not another (climber) soul on the mountain - almost ghostly would it not have been for the blue sky and crisp fresh snow.
Matt McCullough - Dec 2, 2018 9:38 am Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2017
Margherita Peak summit on Mt. Stanley and Snowboard Descent
I was able to summit Margherita Peak and make a snowboard descent of a section of Alexandra glacier/Stanley Plateau on Mt. Stanley within the Rwenzori Mountains National Park of Uganda on April 29, 2017. Unfortunately, there were near white-out conditions and the glacier surface existed of slightly carvable crust and patches of black cruddy ice. The snow conditions on the glacier were quite poorer than expected and sadly the glacier is melting rapidly.
ppergande - Sep 15, 2016 11:49 am Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2015
Great
Loved the glaciers
HeyItsBen - May 9, 2016 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Jan 17, 2016
yes!
I'd wanted to climb Stanley ever since I first read about it here on Summitpost, when I first joined way back in 2004. We did 8 days round trip from Kilembe, making the summit on day 6 in bad weather, lots of new snow on our way up. It rained most days, but usually it was pretty light. The scenery is amazing, the whole experience was very unique...
emilie - Mar 15, 2015 12:45 pm Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2015
Amazing day
Amazing day! 10 hrs door to door and then hikes down to Kitandara (3 more hrs). Incredibly satisfying.
atavist - Feb 26, 2015 4:35 am Date Climbed: Feb 23, 2015
Congo Alpine Club
Feb 20-24
I spent five days climbing the Rwenzori mountains from Mutsora (Mutwanga) in DRC. Currently there is very little tourist impact although a park infrastructure exists including a nice base camp, alpine hut system and easy system for arranging guides and porters. Typically a summit bid requires at least 7 days, I comfortably made the trip in 5 without prior acclimation. I saw wild monkeys, many birds and evidence of wild leopard. But the best feature of the mountain, besides heavily crevassed glaciers at the equator was the vegetation in the mid altitude forest - very unique.
From DRC, the approach passes Kyandolire ranger station and park entrance, then Kalonge hut which I skipped. I stayed the first night at Mahangu hut. The second night at Kiondo hut at 3310m. On the third day I passed the high camp, Moraine hut, and summited Alexandra and Margherita Peak, then bivied on the descent. Fourth day return to Mahangu hut and fifth day return to 'civilization'.
dpryan999 - Aug 2, 2011 1:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2011
Margherita
Amazing weather and 1000km views from the top of Margherita. The approach through bogs, bamboo forests and the groves of lobelia and senecia trees was equally amazing. Only wish I had got in Alexandra and Albert, too.
bruno baschung - Jan 11, 2011 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011
normal route
Normal route of Stanley climbed on 2ndof january 2011, good conditions, but access to the saddle between alexandra and margerita now implies descending on ladders from the stanley plateau (fixed ropes usually in place, but more time is needed than before, I climbed it with many stops in 5.35 from elena hut.
Mind the crevasses especially on the margerita glacier.
I had climbed nearby Mount Speke (vitorrio Emmanuelle) on a previous climb in august 2007, but wasn't successful on Stanley in those days).
A wonderful climb in pristine nature. It's quite advisable to go on to Albert peak from margerita if weather is fine and stable (apporx one hour back and forth)
Bruno baschung
Juho - Aug 14, 2007 4:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2007
Margherita Glacier
Elena Hut - Stanley Plateau - Margherita Glacier - Margherita Peak. Solid cloud cover but the summit was free from mist until noon. No problems on the way, decent views to surrounding peaks and comparatively good weather. For more versatile climbing I'd recommend Mt. Speke (close by) though.
Climbed via Stanley Plateau and Margherita Glacier. Bergschrund issues accessing the latter. Some crevasses. Fixed rope and a ladder (!) on the final rock peak. Guides are compulsory but ours at least were liabilities when it came to rope work on summit day, and we'd have been far happier if they'd stayed in the hut. They know the mountain paths very well, but don't trust them to lead you up the climbing section safely. We had to take charge while they bumbled around dangerously, which was a weird situation. Most amazing mountain range in Africa, but don't forget your gaiters, wellies or an expendable pair of trainers for the bogs.
7summits - Feb 25, 2007 10:56 pm Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2005
Margherita peak
Brilliant adventure with my friends Romke, Ali, Schock & Colie. Beautiful hike, wonderful climb on one of the last glaciers close to the equator. We were the first team employing female porters and guide. See more news about the special project to support the local community here at the Climb High Foundation website.
benhil - Mar 29, 2024 6:59 am Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2023
Point Maragerita Mount StanleyFantastic wild appraoch and climb. My most beautiful climb ever
Jurgen Matata - Jan 4, 2020 3:47 am Date Climbed: Dec 17, 2019
Margherita & AlexandraA dream ascent on day 6 from Kilembe with Jack & Hunnington of Rwenzori Trekking Services. There was not another (climber) soul on the mountain - almost ghostly would it not have been for the blue sky and crisp fresh snow.
Matt McCullough - Dec 2, 2018 9:38 am Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2017
Margherita Peak summit on Mt. Stanley and Snowboard DescentI was able to summit Margherita Peak and make a snowboard descent of a section of Alexandra glacier/Stanley Plateau on Mt. Stanley within the Rwenzori Mountains National Park of Uganda on April 29, 2017. Unfortunately, there were near white-out conditions and the glacier surface existed of slightly carvable crust and patches of black cruddy ice. The snow conditions on the glacier were quite poorer than expected and sadly the glacier is melting rapidly.
ppergande - Sep 15, 2016 11:49 am Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2015
GreatLoved the glaciers
HeyItsBen - May 9, 2016 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Jan 17, 2016
yes!I'd wanted to climb Stanley ever since I first read about it here on Summitpost, when I first joined way back in 2004. We did 8 days round trip from Kilembe, making the summit on day 6 in bad weather, lots of new snow on our way up. It rained most days, but usually it was pretty light. The scenery is amazing, the whole experience was very unique...
emilie - Mar 15, 2015 12:45 pm Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2015
Amazing dayAmazing day! 10 hrs door to door and then hikes down to Kitandara (3 more hrs). Incredibly satisfying.
atavist - Feb 26, 2015 4:35 am Date Climbed: Feb 23, 2015
Congo Alpine ClubFeb 20-24
I spent five days climbing the Rwenzori mountains from Mutsora (Mutwanga) in DRC. Currently there is very little tourist impact although a park infrastructure exists including a nice base camp, alpine hut system and easy system for arranging guides and porters. Typically a summit bid requires at least 7 days, I comfortably made the trip in 5 without prior acclimation. I saw wild monkeys, many birds and evidence of wild leopard. But the best feature of the mountain, besides heavily crevassed glaciers at the equator was the vegetation in the mid altitude forest - very unique.
From DRC, the approach passes Kyandolire ranger station and park entrance, then Kalonge hut which I skipped. I stayed the first night at Mahangu hut. The second night at Kiondo hut at 3310m. On the third day I passed the high camp, Moraine hut, and summited Alexandra and Margherita Peak, then bivied on the descent. Fourth day return to Mahangu hut and fifth day return to 'civilization'.
dpryan999 - Aug 2, 2011 1:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2011
MargheritaAmazing weather and 1000km views from the top of Margherita. The approach through bogs, bamboo forests and the groves of lobelia and senecia trees was equally amazing. Only wish I had got in Alexandra and Albert, too.
bruno baschung - Jan 11, 2011 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011
normal routeNormal route of Stanley climbed on 2ndof january 2011, good conditions, but access to the saddle between alexandra and margerita now implies descending on ladders from the stanley plateau (fixed ropes usually in place, but more time is needed than before, I climbed it with many stops in 5.35 from elena hut.
Mind the crevasses especially on the margerita glacier.
I had climbed nearby Mount Speke (vitorrio Emmanuelle) on a previous climb in august 2007, but wasn't successful on Stanley in those days).
A wonderful climb in pristine nature. It's quite advisable to go on to Albert peak from margerita if weather is fine and stable (apporx one hour back and forth)
Bruno baschung
Juho - Aug 14, 2007 4:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2007
Margherita GlacierElena Hut - Stanley Plateau - Margherita Glacier - Margherita Peak. Solid cloud cover but the summit was free from mist until noon. No problems on the way, decent views to surrounding peaks and comparatively good weather. For more versatile climbing I'd recommend Mt. Speke (close by) though.
Dan Bailey - Mar 12, 2007 4:52 pm
unbelievable placeClimbed via Stanley Plateau and Margherita Glacier. Bergschrund issues accessing the latter. Some crevasses. Fixed rope and a ladder (!) on the final rock peak. Guides are compulsory but ours at least were liabilities when it came to rope work on summit day, and we'd have been far happier if they'd stayed in the hut. They know the mountain paths very well, but don't trust them to lead you up the climbing section safely. We had to take charge while they bumbled around dangerously, which was a weird situation. Most amazing mountain range in Africa, but don't forget your gaiters, wellies or an expendable pair of trainers for the bogs.
7summits - Feb 25, 2007 10:56 pm Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2005
Margherita peakBrilliant adventure with my friends Romke, Ali, Schock & Colie. Beautiful hike, wonderful climb on one of the last glaciers close to the equator. We were the first team employing female porters and guide. See more news about the special project to support the local community here at the Climb High Foundation website.