Mt Stuart

Mt Stuart

Our route on Mt Stuart
ExcitableBoy
on May 31, 2009 12:25 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 517386

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johngo

johngo - Jun 22, 2014 1:23 pm - Hasn't voted

not W Ridge

Umm . . . That is a nice line you took, but it's not really considered the West Ridge.

ExcitableBoy

ExcitableBoy - Jun 28, 2014 9:01 am - Hasn't voted

Neither is the true West Ridge

This route is called the West Ridge Couloir and it terminates at the West Ridge Notch, where the Stuart Glacier Couloir tops out on the North side. The typical West Ridge route climbs a major gulley system to the looker's left of this line.

Using either gulley system is trivial in terms of technical difficulty, however fraught with route finding challenges. The 5th class climbing doesn't really start until the West Ridge Notch, although I recall a few bouldery moves here and there on both approaches.

As neither route actually climbs any of the West Ridge until the West Ridge notch is reached, in my mind approaching via the West Ridge Couloir is just as much the West Ridge as approaching via the typical couloir a bit to looker's left as is Stuart Glacier Couloir.

A true climb of the full West Ridge would require climbing the West Face from Goat Pass (steep, hard) and then traversing the crest to the West Ridge Notch, and then finishing by the classic West Ridge.

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