Harveys Wallbanger Right, some other 5.8R on Hogsback, Groove, surrealistic pillar direct (just that one pitch, both variations), simbad 10b (slanting hand crack next to surrealistic), and some cool stuff on Dear John wall or something like that..there is an awesome clean 10a/10c crack..
The Better with Bacon route? (.8r) Heard it was good! I liked the Groove- didn't care much for the unprotected mantel though haha. God of Thunder is the clean .9 crack that youre thinking of on the DJB. It's awesome- 11b above the bolts. You have to do Corrugation, Traveler and the Line- Fight to lead every pitch, they're that good.
I am moving today, actually. I have been plugging away at Yosemite pretty hard this year because it won't be so accessible now that I am in Oregon. You will have to come visit. Maybe we can do the Ptarmigan on Rainier and some Canadian ice classics (you got the first lead on Sea of Vapors!).
Carly Anne's Butterflies (5.8R). I am down to come up North to visit. You are one of the few people I like climbing with!
Those climbs at the leap are high on the agenda for this year. And climbing in general, I will focus on it now that I am done with Denali.
Friend of mine told me Canada has better ice climbing than Ouray, so maybe go there for a while this winter. Hope you are able to take some time off work.
Send me your new # by the way.
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